Help diagnose my braking issue

[mckrooz]

1993 Ford Explorer Limited

The problem is when I first start driving when the brakes are cold. Any pressure over 30% on the pedal will lock the brakes and bring the car into a skid. The brakes are REALLY grabby. After a few minutes of driving, this will go away and all returns to normal. This has happened the last 2 times I've replaced the brake pads. The first time(a year ago), I figured I must have not bled the brakes properly or something. I didn't drive the car that much because I was riding my motorcycle so I fixing it wasn't a priority for me at the time. Fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I decide to tackle the brake problem because it's now grinding. I purchase new rotors and premium pads. I used the cheap pads last time. Lo and behold, same dang issue. I made sure to take my time and bled the lines properly. Occasionally, the ABS light will come on at any given time if this helps.

 

[DeRocha]

Bleeding doesn't sound at all like your problem... If you were to have air in the lines then the brakes wouldn't grab hard (you appear to have the opposite issue). If the brakes are grabby then you need to verify they were installed correctly (along with the retaining pins for the calipers). Did you read the 1st Gen brake diary yet..

Click hear for common brake issues

 

[mckrooz]

Thanks for the links. That how-to was pretty much how mine went. Spindle nut was torqued down with the correct torque. Retaining pins appear to be in good condition and went it without too much trouble, but were still very tight.

 

[DeRocha]

Thanks for the links. That how-to was pretty much how mine went. Spindle nut was torqued down with the correct torque. Retaining pins appear to be in good condition and went it without too much trouble, but were still very tight.

The Pins are tapered to match the "V" shape of the caliper slide and mounting bracket. They narrow end should face away from the caliper as shown.

 

[mckrooz]

I'll double check the pins.

 

[bisjoe]

New rotors will be grabby when new and will also smoke until the anti-rust coating has burned off. if yours are OK after warmed up, then I'd look at a few other things. If it sat a long time without being driven, and you were in a wet climate like here, the rotors will get all rusty and that can make them grabby until rubbed off. You might take a close look at the calipers. Perhaps when cold they are sticking, and warming them up stops it. How many miles on them, and have the calipers ever been rebuilt or replaced?

 

[mckrooz]

The truck has 210K miles. They have not been replaced or rebuilt since I've owned it. (3yrs)

 

[bisjoe]

The truck has 210K miles. They have not been replaced or rebuilt since I've owned it. (3yrs)

Brake pad wear varies greatly but you should be getting at least 20-25,000 miles on them. Changing them twice in 3 years seems a lot, and sticking calipers would definitely make them wear faster. I had a '96 Explorer for 3 years, and never had to replace the pads in that time, over 30,000 miles.

When you bled the brakes was the fluid nice and clear? If brown at all, that also indicates rust in the system that will cause sticky calipers. It may be that rebuilding them and flushing/bleeding the whole system with new fluid would solve your problem.

 

[mckrooz]

It was definitely brown when I bled them. I flushed it until it was clear. The pads had serious wear on only one of the pads so I guess it is sticking somewhere. Are new calipers needed or is there a way to free up the movement?

 

[mikeinri]

In my experience, and I've done quite a few brake jobs on quite a few vehicles over the years, there's no saving a sticking caliper. For the cost of new ones, it's best to replace them. The peace of mind alone is worth the cost, especially after that many miles on the old ones. Installation is also very easy.

I would also replace the pins and rubber brake lines while replacing the calipers.

Hope this helps.

Mike

 

[Michiganbear]

a minor coating of surface rust on the rotors/drums can cause this too. a couple applications of the brakes wears it off, and then the brakes are normal.

 

[mckrooz]

Thanks. I guess new calipers are next on the to-do list.

 

[scrivyscriv]

I agree with the above conclusion of sticking or otherwise malfunctioning calipers. I've had a very similar problem happen to my FR caliper after using inferior brake pads.

A new/rebuilt phenolic pistion caliper should run you less than twenty bucks.. metal piston calipers will run you ten to fifteen more, and are supposed to last longer; but you must have the same kind of piston on both wheels, and OE on your Explorer is phenolic.

FWIW, I replaced my faulty caliper with another phenolic, and have had no issues in the 6 months of driving on it.