Help:eek: Aussie damsel in distress here:-)

[donalds]

A video would be nice

 

[maxxxx]

Thanks guys, I'm taking lots of notes from all your handy advice! It's early arvo here so I'll film/record it tonight and post it! I've shooed away the geeks and told them I have found my real-live "Explorer Board of Governors" to advise me expertly - so them geeking on about how AI will take over the world in 5-10 years is of no interest or use Of what use are driverless electric cars when my four excited Collies & I need to kick up dust over the Nullabor to a flyball comp in Perth?

 

[maxxxx]

Welcome from down under.
Everything in Aussie is "bass ackwards", left to right, top to bottom compared to us Yanks.
Start by getting rid of oiled K&N air filter, for a stock paper filter.
Then clean MAF sensor.
Then clean ThrottleBody.
Then clean IACValve.
Then clean EGRValve & Tube.
Then clean\replace PCVValve.
Inspect & replace all vacuum hoses+fittings as needed.
Remove OilPan, inspect for broken pieces from TimingGuides,; if none, give thanks; if you find pieces, you've a bigger problem.
If broken TimingGuide pieces are found, remove ValveCovers & inspect further; engine may need to be pulled for repair.
If no broken TimingGuides pieces found, clean OilPumpScreen & re-install OilPan.
Then replace Left+Right OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
Then change Oil+Filter.
Then install new Ignition Plugs+Wires+CoilPack.
Then install new Oxygen Sensors; inspect & repair Exhaust system as needed.
Then replace PlasticThermoStatHousing with new AluminumThermoStatHousing & new ThermoStat Valve.
Then replace CoolantPump+Fan+FanClutch+Belt.
Then replace 1CorePlasticTankedRadiator with 2\3\4CoreAllAluminumRadiator.
Then replace all CoolantHoses+Fittings+HeaterControlValve.
Then flush+change Coolant.
Then drop TrannyPan & inspect for metal shavings, change TrannyFilter+ATF.
Then change TransferCase fluid.
Then change both Differential fluids.
Then change Brake, Steering... fluids.
Then change Brake Pads+Components as needed.
Inspect & replace WheelBearings+Suspension+Tires as needed.

After each of above, see if it runs better\worse, before proceeding to next item.
Hope this helps.

Oh wow THANKS, perfect! Checklists are always king!!

 

[1991 sploder]

U can start by changing the.... oil possibly urself?Add fuel filter and to the list.

 

[1991 sploder]

Early arvo? Lol
That's like alien language.

 

[1998Exp]

First things first, buy some decent hood lifters (you apparently call them "bonnet struts") and get rid of that silly piece of PVC pipe that's holding it open. They shouldn't cost $110 either -- more like US$20 a piece.
That semi-synthetic oil must be worth its weight in gold if they charged you $13/liter for it. Same for the $20 oil filter. Do it yourself next time!
Replace those sway bar links and it will ride much nicer -- they shouldn't cost anywhere near $210; perhaps one tenth of that.
Don't know about the Aussie version, but mine never had stellar brakes. So get those "glazed rotors" turned or better yet, replaced along with the pads -- especially if you are thinking of making use of the hitch that the previous owner so kindly installed and are planning to tow something behind your Limited.
Other than that, if the steering wheel was in the right place, I would think it's mine: same year, same color, same Limited decal (but your body work looks much cleaner).
And why did they replace the subwoofer in the rear with a silly pocket? Never mind -- mine just failed and cost me around $300 in parts and a lot of cussing to replace.
Hope that SOHC engine holds! Enjoy!

 

[CDW6212R]

The fact that it's driveable is great to begin with. It's much harder to work on a vehicle that doesn't move etc. So go at it slow and get used to how things work, what noises it makes etc.

Given the apparent great condition of the truck, it should be relatively easy to identify the major needs and ignore tiny stuff if you have to. That's the best case scenario, drive one as you get used to it etc.

You will quickly have to learn where the special sources you have to have are at. Hopefully some places like Rock Auto can help, any business that will serve you there and is feasible.

 

[masospaghetti]

First things first, buy some decent hood lifters (you apparently call them "bonnet struts") and get rid of that silly piece of PVC pipe that's holding it open. They shouldn't cost $110 either -- more like US$20 a piece.
That semi-synthetic oil must be worth its weight in gold if they charged you $13/liter for it. Same for the $20 oil filter. Do it yourself next time!
Replace those sway bar links and it will ride much nicer -- they shouldn't cost anywhere near $210; perhaps one tenth of that.

Yeah, those prices are ridiculous. But if it's any consolation, the mechanic's rates here in the US are equally outrageous (normal is $150/hr for a private garage, dealership is more). It reminds me why I got into wrenching to begin with.

Even doing the basics you can save a ton of money, especially on an older vehicle.

 

[maxxxx]

Thanks for all these helpful posts. Yes those prices on the service sheet were absurd. And yes arvo lol...we Aussies brutalise all language - why waste time speaking full words when you can speak shorthand for everything.

I went out last night when I got home (it's summer here, so 'daylight' until 9pm) to just have a quiet sit and slow clean of it all. Peer into nooks and crannies to see what is rust and what is dirt (99% dirt). Peered at the engine ("Aha! that's the filter!: etc) and asked around at my local dog park if there was ANY guy who knew about cars.I was directed to an old guy and have hired him for 1/3 mechanic price to come help me do everything you guys have suggested.Remarkably good nick for 22 years old. I'm pretty sure from the name on the old rego papers that it was owned by a well-known racehorse breeder/trainer who died a few months back. One of the trucks used around his facility perhaps? Doesn't seem like it's been used as a 4wd-er...and the sound system is brlliant.

I'm in Australia so have never heard of Rock Auto. But we've been in lockdown-lockdown for months so local businesses are now competing like crazy onprices to deliver free & fast. For example I clicked away at 11pm last night and at 7am this morning a masked and gloved local business guy was on my doorstep delivering all the oils, fluids,tools etc it seems I need (50% off)

Next as someone on this site also suggested I'll go to a muffler place and get that fixed/replaced,and an LPG place to get it tested. New muffler + LPG test ) all the parts and fluids and tools I've bought +paying the old guy should come to around $900...andI have $2000. Which is brilliant!

Then it should be able to be registered in time for driving 2000km next week without breaking down in some remote country town with no local mechanic within hundreds of km (Australia is same size of USA with population of only 25 million...can drive for many hours/days even without seeing anything but kangaroos and truckers) - 4 dogs and a freaked out disabled nice & her buddy in the car. I really don't need that....so fingers crossed I/we can fix this lovely old chick before I venture out.

Thanks again all! Will try to load a videoof the engine/sounds asap so you can advise. Commonsense says it is DRY right now.

 

[maxxxx]

Welcome from down under.
Everything in Aussie is "bass ackwards", left to right, top to bottom compared to us Yanks.
Start by getting rid of oiled K&N air filter, for a stock paper filter.
Then clean MAF sensor.
Then clean ThrottleBody.
Then clean IACValve.
Then clean EGRValve & Tube.
Then clean\replace PCVValve.
Inspect & replace all vacuum hoses+fittings as needed.
Remove OilPan, inspect for broken pieces from TimingGuides,; if none, give thanks; if you find pieces, you've a bigger problem.
If broken TimingGuide pieces are found, remove ValveCovers & inspect further; engine may need to be pulled for repair.
If no broken TimingGuides pieces found, clean OilPumpScreen & re-install OilPan.
Then replace Left+Right OilPressurized TimingTensioners.
Then change Oil+Filter.
Then install new Ignition Plugs+Wires+CoilPack.
Then install new Oxygen Sensors; inspect & repair Exhaust system as needed.
Then replace PlasticThermoStatHousing with new AluminumThermoStatHousing & new ThermoStat Valve.
Then replace CoolantPump+Fan+FanClutch+Belt.
Then replace 1CorePlasticTankedRadiator with 2\3\4CoreAllAluminumRadiator.
Then replace all CoolantHoses+Fittings+HeaterControlValve.
Then flush+change Coolant.
Then drop TrannyPan & inspect for metal shavings, change TrannyFilter+ATF.
Then change TransferCase fluid.
Then change both Differential fluids.
Then change Brake, Steering... fluids.
Then change Brake Pads+Components as needed.
Inspect & replace WheelBearings+Suspension+Tires as needed.

After each of above, see if it runs better\worse, before proceeding to next item.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for this Dillardoo (your name sounds like an australian marsupial).All the advice I've been getting and researching has been incredibly overwhelming. So I showed this list to the old guy at the park.He's a long ago retired mechanic,disabled and quite ill...but he says he can lean on the car and point me in the right direction...yell if I'm about to pull a wire which will blow the engine.So together we should kinda-sorta make up one functional backyard mechanic. Great learning experience, just what I'm looking forward to!

 

[German Engineer]

Ah! A German Engineer (my Husband's German so I hear constantly you guys are superior..at *everything*) Thank you SO much. The mechanics are really snowed under right now and being dismissive / talking jargon at me. Which seems a bit rude...they are experts at their stuff, I am experts at mine. But I followed your link and "find out if the conversion is Single Point, if it is, beware! When you inspect under the bonnet, look out for the tell tale K&N air filter. If one has been fitted walk away, you will be buying trouble." This makes sense now...I may indeed have bought a disaster.Oh well, onto next Explorer for my dream adventures

From all I read you described here so far I would refer to the famous cover of the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy:

"Don't Panic!"

If you're lucky it might just be a simple cheap fix.
Judging by the photos, I must say you found yourself a real beauty and as others here already said, the "knocking" or "rattling" noise that you described as faint ticker will probably turn out to be a very manageable issue.

I won't repeat all the good tips and advice people posted here so I'll just say good luck! My guess is that the faint ticker noise is probably not all that big of a problem to fix.
At the moment there's naturally no real telling for me right now, so of course it may possibly even be something serious that causes it, but I wouldn't be overly worried yet!
If you're lucky, then it might just as well even turn out to be knocking caused by bad fuel. Or it could be a minor lubrication problem with the cams due to lack of oil, or very old oil, or crud buildup, that goes away with a flush and an oil change, who knows.

 

[maxxxx]

From all I read you described here so far I would refer to the famous cover of the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy:

"Don't Panic!"

If you're lucky it might just be a simple cheap fix.
Judging by the photos, I must say you found yourself a real beauty and as others here already said, the "knocking" or "rattling" noise that you described as faint ticker will probably turn out to be a very manageable issue.

I won't repeat all the good tips and advice people posted here so I'll just say good luck! My guess is that the faint ticker noise is probably not all that big of a problem to fix.
At the moment there's naturally no real telling for me right now, so of course it may possibly even be something serious that causes it, but I wouldn't be overly worried yet!
If you're lucky, then it might just as well even turn out to be knocking caused by bad fuel. Or it could be a minor lubrication problem with the cams due to lack of oil, or very old oil, or crud buildup, that goes away with a flush and an oil change, who knows.

Thanks! I'm a bit of a Luddite, so anything machinery-wise has me convinced the smallest thing could explode I have next to no experience with cars, but have been thinking and as I was raised on yachts mainly, I realise I DO (vaguely) know the sounds of engines. I'm hoping to god it's just oil and fluids.It seems like the mechanic it was taken to before was expensive and (apart from the engine??) is remarkably well looked after. Fingers crossed they didnt just look after the cosmetic stuff and wreck the engine. Can't imagine they would've, but people ARE strange

The only thing I'm wondering at this stage is, if I do all the things you guys suggest but the LPG has wrecked the engine can I just replace the engine? I was raised on yachts, (no.1 money pits) so my uncle and dad were always just replacing things. Maybe that is warping my thinking...can this be done with cars or am I just pouring money pointlessly??? Thanks guys!!

 

[German Engineer]

Thanks! I'm a bit of aluddite so anything machinery-wise has me convinced the smallest thing could explode I have next to no experience with cars, but have been thinking and as I was raised on yachts mainly, I realise I DO (vaguely) know the sounds of engines. I'm hoping to god it's just oil and fluids.It seems like the mechanic it was taken to before was expensive and (apart from the engine??) is remarkably well looked after. Fingers crossed they didnt just look after the cosmetic stuff and wreck the engine. Can't imagine they would've, but people ARE strange

The only thing I'm wondering at this stage is,if I do all the things you guys suggest but the LPG has wrecked the engine can I just replace the engine?I was raised on yachts, (no.1 money pits) so my uncle and dad were always just replacing things. Maybe that is warping my thinking...can this be done with cars or am I just pouring money pointlessly??? Thanks guys!!

I'm generally an optimist and I wouldn't worry about the engine being totally wrecked, before I've seen evidence that suggests it really may be.

Here have a look at a paragraph from the manual for my Explorer.
Of course mine is not converted to LPG and it's not the same engine as yours but it says quote:

"Octane recommendations

Your vehicle is designed to use “Regular” unleaded gasoline with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. We do not recommend the use of gasolines labeled as “Regular” that are sold with octane ratings of 86 or lower in high altitude areas. Do not be concerned if your engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if it knocks heavily under most driving conditions while you are using fuel with the recommended octane rating, see your dealer or a qualified service technician to prevent any engine damage"

So, in short, yes figure out why it makes the noise and what's wrong, but don't jump to early conclusions.

If it was my own car the first thing I'd do is hook up my OBD2 scanner and look for stored and pending codes and then take a closer look at the live data, to see what all the sensors say to get an idea how well it runs and if it's on the lean or rich side. I'd also check the oil of course, and I'd top up the gas tank with a few gallons of new mid grade or even premium fuel to mix with whatever is in there and get it above 86 octane hopefully.

Your case is of course bit special being a car that's converted to run with LPG, but I suppose your engine is also still be able to run on gasoline as well? So I'd definitely check how it sounds when using either of the fuel types, gas and LPG, and I'd try to figure out if the sound is an issue that occurs all the time, or if it only occurs when running on one type of fuel and not on the other, to try to pinpoint it down.

 

[donalds]

A video would be nice

 

[maxxxx]

I'm generally an optimist and I wouldn't worry about the engine being totally wrecked, before I've seen evidence that suggests it really may be.

Here have a look at a paragraph from the manual for my Explorer.
Of course mine is not converted to LPG and it's not the same engine as yours but it says quote:

"Octane recommendations

Your vehicle is designed to use “Regular” unleaded gasoline with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. We do not recommend the use of gasolines labeled as “Regular” that are sold with octane ratings of 86 or lower in high altitude areas. Do not be concerned if your engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if it knocks heavily under most driving conditions while you are using fuel with the recommended octane rating, see your dealer or a qualified service technician to prevent any engine damage"

So, in short, yes figure out why it makes the noise and what's wrong, but don't jump to early conclusions.

If it was my own car the first thing I'd do is hook up my OBD2 scanner and look for stored and pending codes and then take a closer look at the live data, to see what all the sensors say to get an idea how well it runs and if it's on the lean or rich side. I'd also check the oil of course, and I'd top up the gas tank with a few gallons of new mid grade or even premium fuel to mix with whatever is in there and get it above 86 octane hopefully.

Your case is of course bit special being a car that's converted to run with LPG, but I suppose your engine is also still be able to run on gasoline as well? So I'd definitely check how it sounds when using either of the fuel types, gas and LPG, and I'd try to figure out if the sound is an issue that occurs all the time, or if it only occurs when running on one type of fuel and not on the other, to try to pinpoint it down.

fantastic, thanks for this. One mechanic at his happy hour on the side of the road peered under it and said "well your exhaust is ****"

...translated I'm guessing means I need it fixed It wasn't making any sound...but I've since discovered it may be the reason for the ticking?

It really all sounded fine on the stop-start peakhour roads and alsoonthe highways. But when these guys started casting aspersions on the old girl my husband started panicking and wants to trash it. I will take your wise counsel though, remain CALM and fill 'er up with all the fluids etc.

Thanks for putting my mind at ease,that quote from the manual is good. It remainds me fondly of my dear ol grumpy grandad who was always fuming and muttering about people "not reading their damn instruction manuals!!!" Cheerio from sunny oz

 

[German Engineer]

It's an old American\Hollywood stereotype of Aussies, but can't help but think of your planned adventure as
"Mad Maxxxx" driving across endless desert outback.

I wish my Exploder had 600 horse power of vengeance. )

 

[maxxxx]

It's an old American\Hollywood stereotype of Aussies, but can't help but think of your planned adventure as
"Mad Maxxxx" driving across endless desert outback.

haha yes I do love the desert.Lots of crazies out there - wild-eyed guys running away from the law/their lives. At uni I worked taking international students away on weekends etc. A group of military guys from West Point one weekend kept exclaiming " wow, WILD [waaarld] man!!" over and over. I asked them what on earth was so wild. "EVERYTHING MAN, EVERYTHING"

 

[German Engineer]

fantastic, thanks for this. One mechanic at his happy hour on the side of the road peered under it and said "well your exhaust is ****"

...translated I'm guessing means I need it fixed It wasn't making any sound...but I've since discovered it may be the reason for the ticking?

It really all sounded fine on the stop-start peakhour roads and alsoonthe highways. But when these guys started casting aspersions on the old girl my husband started panicking and wants to trash it. I will take your wise counsel though, remain CALM and fill 'er up with all the fluids etc.

Thanks for putting my mind at ease,that quote from the manual is good. It remainds me fondly of my dear ol grumpy grandad who was always fuming and muttering about people "not reading their damn instruction manuals!!!" Cheerio from sunny oz

As Donald said twice:

A video would be nice

Leaky exhaust may indeed make noise that resembles what you're describing, but we don't have a video to tell what type of noise it is .

It can sometimes be tricky to locate, but try to listen where the sound comes from.
You should most probably be able to tell if it comes from the top of the engine, near the front or at one side, or from lower down, maybe even from under the car.

Look under the car where the mechanic looked when he pointed out your exhaust problem when the engine is running and listen if the sound comes from there.
Leaky exhaust is usually pretty easy to diagnose. Conveniently the Explorers have quite good ground clearance, so you can just crawl under the car quite easily and look at the exhaust from front to back.
When you have a running engine then you'll of course want to be somewhat more careful. Make sure it's in park, that the parking brake is engaged (make sure that it really works if you haven't) and chock the wheels, and make sure no one messes with the vehicle while you or whoever else is fiddling around under there.

If you want to have it a bit more comfortable, then you might want to consider parking the car with two wheels on one side up on a curb/sidewalk.

And of course the usual safety precautions: Wear safety glasses (or your normal glasses) so you don't get dust or oil or whatever else drop into your eyes so easily. And keep in mind that anything that has to do with the exhaust will get very hot very quick when the engine runs and it will of course also stay hot for quite a while after you turn the engine off!

If it really is just an exhaust leak, then you should probably be able to see where the leak may be, when looking around under the car with the engine off. And you should most definitely also be able to hear where exactly it comes from, when the engine runs and you're listening for the noise down near the ground peeking under the car from the side here and there.

 

[CDW6212R]

The mileage on that suggests it may have not had anything done with the valvetrain. The SOHC is absolutely notorious for issues related to specific parts that do not last long enough.

If there is too much noise from the exhaust to hear the engine well, that might have to be fixed first. What you do not want to hear is a rattling sound right after start up. The valvetrain has multiple tensioners in it, plus a timing cassette on the front and back, which have a plastic guide that the chain rides against.

If the oil is always kept clean and not old/dirty, the cassettes may last 150k miles, many see 200k or more from the rear one. But the two external tensioners are very prone to wearing out, and bad or dirty oil can kill them earlier. So oil quality is very important for the 4.0 SOHC, but those tensioners both have internal rubber seals that over time get hard and leak oil past, which lets the chain run too loose. That's where the tell tale rattle sound comes from, a loose chain from either a bad tensioner, or worn plastic guide(the cassette).

You can find many threads about the SOHC timing tensioners, and cassettes. I was one of the first since I did mine right after buying the truck(wrecked) in 2006. My reconstruction thread is linked in my signature below, my 93/99 Explorer project. Look through that or any similar timing tensioner thread, to see the parts and what needs to be done. The labor to replace some of those parts is not bad, to do the cassette at the front is a big job, and the rear one is very big(R&R the engine big).

At 117k miles, it hopefully just needs the two external tensioners replaced, which here are under about $75 each. The rear one can be changed in maybe 15 minutes, but the front one can be a couple of hours or more(tricky(the thermostat housing is tricky to work around the one sensor(do not disturb that one sensor next to the tensioner))).

 

[1991 sploder]

Give it a good shakedown test before you hit the road. Ur going to have to go wot "wide open throttle" maybe a couple 0-60 tests if something is going to blow that type of test on a hot hot motor will give you some piece of mind.