Help from a smarty. Drivshaft and Timing Chain :( | Ford Explorer Forums

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Help from a smarty. Drivshaft and Timing Chain :(

RKelly2233

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 26, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Rochester, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 XLT 4-Door Sport
okay, searching here was not easy... there are so many different problems that you all have had with the timing chain and driveshaft that I dont know which ones I really can relate too . So here it goes:

03 V6 4-Door (sohc right?). I have 155K miles. Orig plugs.

Timing chain:
Ok I know I need to replace one of the 2 or both (or so I heard there was 2). It rattles on colder starts initially durring start up (not necessarily cold outside, just when the truck has been sitting for hour or so). When the truck is from 1000-2000 rpm it doesn't rattle, but as soon as I go above I get a little jingle. Same as when im going 45-50 at about 1000 rpm (I can get 21 mpg honestly so its my favorite speed). Would that be the main- or the rear? And should I replace the tensioners or anything else to make sure it doesnt happen again? I can't do it myself, I dont have the tools or knowledge. I have a mechanic that works at a good rate ($) and does honest work.

Driveshaft:
I have that horrible howeling- usually at higher speeds. Im not nervous to have it flushed, and owners manuel says now its supposed to be done around this mileage- but will it help it? What would I have to get into (work wise) to stop it otherwise? or at least to minimize it? I've read hundreds or threads, and I dont know what product to choose- regular, conditioner, etc. I also read that after you do it once, do it again after the next oil change- and itll be much more minimized. Im going to have the Ford dealer do it (I dont mind spending the $150 for someone to do it right) and supply them with the conditioning fluid..

Side note; I dont have them handy but I bought new plugs and wires. That mechanic friend said that he would do them for $100 cash... Ford told me it would be around $800 in labor. Does my mechanic just not know what hes getting into???

Going this saturday to get oil done and PCM flash upgrade...
 






no response- but results posted

Didn't notice any change in my sparkplug and wire change- but the truck was running fine anyway. May notice MPG difference though, will post at next fill up.

PCM upgrade- made a little difference. When I would set cruise to 55 and push the + button to go 1mph faster rpms would surge to 3000 from 1500 to keep at speed; same thing when trying to maintain speed on a slight incline. Not anymore, smooth increase and the surge almost never happens anymore. And I dont know what Ford dealer some people are going to, but Van Bortel Ford in Fairport, NY (previously Fairport Ford) only charged me $45 total to do the flash/upgrade. On top of it all, they changed my oil for free! But that was a promotion I wasn't aware of (Kitty Van Bortel sent letters out to Fairport Ford customers and I just didn't pick up my mail until I got home that evening and there it was- so now I can get a Free one in one of my Taurus' too!) :)

Any suggestions guys on the fluid to used for the rear end? or the Transmission? Im going to have both done within the next month I think.
 






Not familiar with later SOHC V6

I would have responded sooner but I was hesitant since I'm not that familiar with the later SOHC V6. However, from what I've read on the forum the main difference between yours and mine is a one piece vs two piece intake manifold. If you have 2WD then I suspect that you have three timing chains: lower front (primary or crankshaft to jackshaft), upper front (jackshaft to driver camshaft) and upper rear (jackshaft to passenger camshaft). If you have 4WD then there is another lower front (crankshaft to balance shaft) chain. See the link in My Helpful Threads (signature) for replacing rear timing chain tensioner for a quick description with photos.

Your first priority should be to understand the configuration of your timing chain system. Then you should focus on isolating to the source of the rattle. Then you can consider the repair options cost and risk of unsuccessful repair.
 






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