pinging and timing chains!!

[CDW6212R]

The old washer should work fine. The parts are well machined and I think the washer is as much to keep the parts from seizing together than to seal it. If it isn't scratched it should work over and over again, because it's soft metal. Regards,

 

[2000StreetRod]

Compression ring curvature

The compression ring conforms to the shape of the tensioner sealing face when torqued. If you have already torqued it to specification don't remove it. Each time it is retorqued it is less likely to seal.

 

[Woolval]

OK, the washer stays, I won't take it off. It does look pretty good, I didn't notice any scratches on it and I cleaned the head thoroughly.

Thanks,

Val

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes it will conform to the tensioner, but the surfaces there are very uniform from one to the next. The soft metal works well as the gasket, better as an example than the copper washer on caliper fittings. Always change those if you can, but these tensioner gaskets are no problem.

 

[Woolval]

thermostat lower housing leak

I was making good headway, but my thermostat lower housing assy is what was seeping the coolant. I read the exploded diagram incorrectly ( http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/par...2110&callout=9&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0 ) and ordered an O-ring, which I thought was the problem. But it's the actual assy. I split the assy apart, (it was not designed to come apart) cleaned it up and put the RTV silicone in it for now. I'll order a new one and install it when it comes. But I want to finish the engine reassembly so I can see if it's going to run again.

It's a great feeling to reconnect the wires and hoses, peeling off my labels as I go. Each one removed is one step closer to being finished! All that's left is the radiator fan and cowling, upper radiator hose, alternator and it's mount... put oil in her and see what happens.

Don, I added over 2 gallons of coolant into the engine before I put the thermostat housing back on. Thanks for that advice because I would not have done that.

OK, time to get cleaned up for dinner.

Val

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a good idea to fill it, thank Dale for that thought. The newer vehicles don't hold as much coolant as old cars. I only put in a gallon of antifreeze top start with, then diluted water until it's mostly water, then alternately topping it off. Use only as much antifreeze as it needs to not freeze in your weather. I never need more than about 25% in TN. The water cools better alone, and I add a bottle Water Weter to help more and to resist corrosion. Water Weter is less than antifreeze now, it's cheaper and better IMO.

 

[Woolval]

She lives!!

My Explorer is running again, she's quiet (no chain rattle) and NO LEAKS!!!

I'll post some pictures of my custom tools and more details of the final assembly later. Time to run to Tampa to pick up my wife at the airport.

Dale and Don, thank you both for all the help, tips and support.

Val

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

I'm very glad to learn that your vehicle is back on the road and doing well! Hopefully, it will provide many troublefree miles.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, be easy on it for now and keep an eye out for leaks.

 

[Woolval]

Good news, bad news

Good news is she's running great. Bad news is there is a coolant leak in the lower housing for the thermostat. Which really isn't a surprise since I forced it apart and it wasn't designed to come apart. I've order the replacement part from Tousley Ford so it should be here by Friday.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49919859@N03/4600169928/in/set-72157623997507636/

Overall, I am VERY happy!! This leak is minor and expected.

Val

 

[Woolval]

no need to pull radiator, homemade tools

I should be getting my new thermostat lower housing today, so I'll replace it and that will stop my minor coolant leak. The original lower housing assy had a small seepage leek and I split it apart to see if I could fix it. I didn't (though I still think I could with the proper cement for the plastic housing) I figured it would be smarter to replace it with a new one.

Here are some pictures and labels of the homemade tools I devised to overcome some problems. 2000StreetRod linked me to some of his homemade tools and that helped me think up my design. Dale, thanks for all your help!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49919859@N03

If you download the pictures from Flickr you can then zoom in on them to read my typing. I hope this helps you.

FYI: By buying these few bolts you can replace the front tensioner, jackshaft chain and sprockets (all front end work) without having to remove the radiator. I did not want to disconnect my transmission cooler lines because of the asinine way Ford designed adding fluid back into the tranny. I also did not disconnect any of my AC lines. I left the compressor and lines intact, disconnected the AC line clamps at the bottom of the engine, then swung the whole thing out of the way. I tied it off to a wooden dowel I stuck thru a hole in the fender so the weight was not on the AC lines. It moved enough so I had ample clearance to get to the front cover bolts on the drivers side of the engine.

I hope this info help others. I'm trying to "give back" for all the help I received during my job.

Val

 

[Woolval]

Update: oil leak!!

I'm very disappointed... after 9,000 miles I've developed an oil leak. It's a minor leak, but unacceptable, where the front cover bolts to the bottom, by the main shaft front seal. I was worried about that spot because I had torn the seal where it curves under the main crankshaft. I thought I was OK after cleaning thoroughly and applying gasket sealer there, but it obviously did not seal. The olny way to get at it again is to remove the front cover again!

Oh well... I've got experience doing this once, so the 2nd time should go much quicker! I need to stop the oil drips on my concrete driveway, so it's a job that's on my to-do list.

Val

 

[2000StreetRod]

Gasket or Seal?

I'm sorry about your oil leak. As I recall you did not replace your front timing cover seal. Make sure the gasket is leaking and not the seal. If the cover was not installed exactly as before and you did not replace the seal then there's a chance the seal is leaking.