Help please no crank no start | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Help please no crank no start

XltRoger2003

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 26, 2016
Messages
142
Reaction score
17
Location
Kingsport , TN
City, State
Kingsport,TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 limited v8
Went to bank came out used key pad to unlock door put key in and I got 2 clicks and nothing, battery tested great and charged,I still tried a jump start and 2 clicks and nothing, so I walked to my friends work 2 miles in the rain talked to him and he talked to his boss his boss is allowing me to use the computer to look this up now he said I can only use it for about 5 minutes every hour so his boss doesn't get mad,, so I need help with this like causes and solutions posted on here so I can just return to this page and write down stuff to check and work with cause my friend has to leave at 1 its now 930 and I have to leave with him he's gonna try to help me and I know more than him(that's not saying much or even less,lol) any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
 



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Wild guess: battery cables loose?
 






Everything is tight but thanks drdoom
 






Okie dokie I went to meet a tow truck at me truck and just out of curiosity I tried to start it and IT STARTED wow I couldn't believe it now I need to find the gremlin so it won't happen again any ideas?????
 






Okie dokie I went to meet a tow truck at me truck and just out of curiosity I tried to start it and IT STARTED wow I couldn't believe it now I need to find the gremlin so it won't happen again any ideas?????
@XltRoger2003 @drdoom
drdoom is as usual in line with my thinking. Next step, remove battery cable terminals, look at condition of battery posts and inside of the terminals. If you find dark-colored spots or burnt-looking areas, or there is evidence of corrosion in the form of fluffy-looking crud, clean it all away, scrape the posts lightly with a paring knife, carefully, removing only the crud, not metal, until it looks shiny and metallic . Same for inside of the terminals. Then apply a good coating of grease to the posts and inside of terminals; Vaseline is good. Tighten them back in place, it's likely fixed. If not, they should be kept clean, anyway. I have seen large numbers of seemingly intermittent "start" problems caused by corroded terminals. Starts one time, not the next, and so on.

If it still fails to start, next place to consider would be the starter motor itself. It has a high-current contact within it which becomes burnt. All this assumes the battery is charged and capable of delivering high current levels. imp
 






All that is coming tomorrow when I get the chance church was longer than usual tonight but thanks imp
 






If you have replacement battery terminals, make sure to check the wire that goes inside the battery terminals.

I had a starting problem of click and instantly everything dead. Corrosion on the wire inside the terminal, and loose clamping for it, was an issue.
 






Always use crimped battery lugs not the clamp on ones.

If it's not the connections it's probably the starter solenoid (replace whole starter), 100% new Bosch, Remy, or Motorcraft. Don't get a reman.
 






Well db electrical is here in town and they are about 60 to 80 dollars cheaper and they have a high out put alternator a 220 amp for 199 right now too
 






If you have replacement battery terminals, make sure to check the wire that goes inside the battery terminals.

I had a starting problem of click and instantly everything dead. Corrosion on the wire inside the terminal, and loose clamping for it, was an issue.
@toypaseo @TechGuru
Good points, which I missed making. Have seen the individual strands of wire corroded badly even back into the insulation of the cable, several inches from the terminal. Wire eaten away, so little metal remains. When that stage is reached, what's left of the metal wires gets real hot during high-current demand, the heat makes things worse, and a "snowball" develops. imp
 






Well it did it again well I was leaving physical therapy just a click and nothing so I disconnected battery and I have a wire brush used that really hard still nothing happened but a click then somebody came along he told me he loves fords because they are a great company and all but he drives a Chevy now all because of the security system does this a lot that this is all because of the starter disabling system ,,the security system trys to reset and the computer blocks it and the onlymway to fix it is going to the dealership and have them reprogram it all......any comments to that friends???????
 






PATS has NOTHING to do with disabling the starter. Starter will still crank with PATS tripped.

My understanding per koda2000, is that PATS only disables the fuel injectors and nothing else.
 






From Original Post #!1
PATS uses a visual theft indicator located on top of the instrument panel. This indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition switch is turned to ON or START. PATS also "flashes" the theft indicator every two seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.

Everything you wanted to know about PATS. | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
 












PATS has NOTHING to do with disabling the starter. Starter will still crank with PATS tripped.

My understanding per koda2000, is that PATS only disables the fuel injectors and nothing else.

@swshawaii Before looking above, as I understand it, several disable schemes have been in use. Some, maybe all, Gen 2s will crank, but not start, due to PATS. This really seems stupid, to me, as I guy could suspect any number of reasons for failure to fire, a grind his battery away to dust. My '04 quick-flashes the red light on top of the dash, when PATS detects wrong key, and does nothing else. Much more sensible, IMO. Wish the PATS system didn't exist at all, actually! imp
 






Well it started again no problem earlier no matter which key I used it wouldn't start even when I used the factory key so I just don't know and thanks swshawaii and techguru for the info next time it doesn't start I will go through the check list on that list techguru and avian I appreciate all this help now it fills like I'm a bother with all these problems when I get my settlement I might just sell this one and get a newer one like maybe a 2010 model
 






Well it started again no problem earlier no matter which key I used it wouldn't start even when I used the factory key so I just don't know and thanks swshawaii and techguru for the info next time it doesn't start I will go through the check list on that list techguru and avian I appreciate all this help now it fills like I'm a bother with all these problems when I get my settlement I might just sell this one and get a newer one like maybe a 2010 model

If going 4th gen I would just get a 2003–2006 Expedition.
 






I have the 03 xlt 4.0 4x4 3rd row seat techguru
 









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Duhhhh I should of seen that lol,,, I know where a 2000 5.4 EB is but is has manifold leak and 200k miles and some rust between the side steps and the trim right above them
 






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