Help replacing my '97 AWD transfer case

[rizzjc]

I finally got a transfer case to replace mine with 120k miles which as started to "slip" pretty bad. The new case from ped5stang, is supposed to have under 70k miles on it. I'm having some trouble getting the old case out.

I've removed the driveshafts, and put the jack under the tcase. Needed some new tools to get at the bolts, and am able to access all but one. The one on the passenger side, up high, I can't get to. I saw where V8boatbuilder said that he removed the exhaust from the cat back to gain some clearance. Maybe I have to do this, but since the exhaust is bolted on past where the bolts are, it's still not ideal. I'm wondering if anyone knows how to remove this bold without taking anything else off? I guess removing he exhaust is easier than the cross-member holding up the tranny, but the darn Ford factory repair guide doesn't say anything about removing anything else. They just say "remove 6 transfer case bolts". So helpful.

Anyone have any thoughts, or should I just stop crying and drop the exhaust and save myself a lot of extra time looking at this one stupid bolt? I just want to make sure that it's really a lot easier to get to this way.

Thanks! I am really hoping to get it back on the road this weekend. I took my time today, so I gotta get moving tomorrow.

 

[bellasage]

HELP!!!! I have removed the front drive shaft with no problem and got all of the bolts out of the transfer case. I CANNOT get the rear drive shaft bolts to break loose. I have soaked them 3 times and used an air rachet and still nothing. How can I get these bolts out. Is heating these bolts going to help and is this going to be a probelm being so close to the fuel tank.

 

[1IronMike]

rizzjc:
I have found a universel and about a mile and a half of extensions sometimes help get to those up and away places. I also remember something about a floor plate you can remove on the hump to get to the top bolts but that might be for the tranny, not sure.
Good luck.

 

[IZwack]

HELP!!!! I have removed the front drive shaft with no problem and got all of the bolts out of the transfer case. I CANNOT get the rear drive shaft bolts to break loose. I have soaked them 3 times and used an air rachet and still nothing. How can I get these bolts out. Is heating these bolts going to help and is this going to be a probelm being so close to the fuel tank.

you can heat the bolts but typicall you just need a 12-point 12mm socket and a 1/2"-drive breaker bar (about a foot and a half long)

 

[rizzjc]

Yeah, old thread, but breaker bar should do the trick. The top bar off my floor jack fits over my wratchets and works quite well. Breaks just about anything loose.

 

[bellasage]

Hey guys,
Thanks for answering, well still can't get em off, can't seem to get enough leverage gonna try jacking the rear up, is it possible there is thread lock on the bolts? would you know? been working on my wifes car after work for 2 weeks now and if I don't get this done soon she's gonna kill me lol she wants her explorer back!! Off this weekend gonna attack the beast ... let you know how it goes

 

[IZwack]

Yeah you need to typically jack the back up (the chassis - not the axle - so as to keep the tires firmly on the ground) as there just isnt enough room to work at standard right height. Also, make sure you are parked on a level surface so there is less pressure on the driveshaft bolts from the weight of the car.

 

[bellasage]

Will a regular floor jack lift the chassis up? I plan to buy a large floor jack but not sure exactly where I should jack up the vehicle. I currently have the front tires on ramps to give me clearance. Do I need to take these off of the ramps?

 

[rizzjc]

I had the front and back on ramps, just so I had enough clearance to get the tcase out. I don't recall having any problem at all with those bolts.

 

[IZwack]

Ramps are a great idea. But jacking the chassis up (and not the axle) at the rear allows the axle to "droop" away from the chassis and gives you more room - especially to get to the upper bolts at the rear differential.

 

[bellasage]

Thanks for all of your help. After putting the rear wheels up n ramps the rear driveshaft bolts broke losoe right away. Now one more question....What do I torque the bolts at for the front side and back side to the transfer case of the front drive shaft. I cannot find this in my book. Again thanks for all the help. Task almost accomplished.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Hopefully you got the case out, by now, but you need to remove the center console and the floor plate in the cab to easily reach the top two bolts. It's well worth it.

 

[bellasage]

Thanks for all the advice guys... my hubby did it, put my explorer up on ramps, finally broke the bolts loose on the driveshaft and changed out the tcase, changed ujoints while he was at it, my x is up and running and no more leaking, have no idea how but the tcase developed a hairline crack and leaked all over the place and thats what started all this , this site is awesome and ever so helpful ... glad I found it

 

[chucktun]

[If your t case is still bolted to the cross member here' all you need to do to get to that bolt.first step- suspend the entire front end on jackstands by the engine hoop (the metal beam running directly parallel and immediately in front of your front IFS axle). The front suspension must be completely relieved(safest with front wheels removed). STEP TWO- relieve your torsion bars by rotating the the level bolts counterclockwise with a 1/2" socketwrench aproximately 25 to 30 quarter turns. count how many turns you need and WRITE IT DOWN. # of turns will vary from left to right(due to fuel tank counter balancing for weight). Watch the ends of the leveling bolts protruding from the top side of the leveling arms so you can be sure you dont screw them all the way out. when the torsion bars are relieved enough you will be able to lift the front A-arm assemblies freely if only for a quarter inch or so. from here you can safely proceed. STEP THREE- Support the trans mission w/ a rolling floor jack(use a short 2x4 to buffer the jack head and a nylon stap or tie down so the transmission wont come crashing down).Then put an entirely seperate rolling jack under the cross member centered under the t case mount. raise the trans jack until it is at the exact pressure needed to hold the transmission in its rolling location and height. the t-case cross member should be supported by the jack with slightly more pressure than the transjack(only slightly).STEP FOUR- all is supported so remove the crossmember bolts connecting to the frame on either side(four in all 15mm). for safety sake do not place your body under the cross member For ANY REASON though the loose( but not disconnected) torsion bars probably wouldnt let the member fall or become unbalanced. just be safe.STEP FIVE-relieve both jacks VERY SLOWLY. The t case crossmember jack will fall slightly further this is normal. let them drop only until you gain the clearance you need to remove your final bolt. if the t case jack is truely centered you should be able to access the tcase mount bolts and remove them from the crossmember. {assuming your driveshafts are off) remove your final bolt and your t case will be free. STEP SIX- unless you are super strong dont attempt to slide the t case off its input shaft and remove the case by yourself. first relieve the t case crossmember jack until it gives you three to four inches of space between the crossmember and the floating t case-trans assembly supported by jack #1. two friends or a shelf-adapted jack can support the floated t case and allow you to slide it off safely.

 

[70GS455]

Just went through this on my 97 AWD. It was easiest for me to just remove the center console, pull back the front carpet, then remove the access panel that was bolted to the floor. I was able to get to the top 2 bolts as well as the passenger side bolt (with a swivel, socket, and extension). HTH.

 

[Duke Nukem]

I agree with 70GS455, you can get to the three difficult bolts through the access panel under the center console. I'm replacing the transfer case in my '98 AWD Mountaineer and it wasn't difficult at all.

1. First remove the center console. There are four bolts that hold the center console in place and they are all easily accessible. You have to first pop out the cupholders and other plastic crap that snaps in from the top. You should see the four bolts. You also need to unbolt and remove the wiring harness that connects just under the dash. The trick is to then push down on the center console and pull it backward. It has two tabs in the back that hook it in place. Just give it a good tug and it should come right out.

2. Remove the access panel cover. Pull back the carpet and you should see it on the tranny hump. There are just a few screws that hold it in place. It helps to remove the passenger seat, which is held in by just four bolts.

3. Remove the top two bolts on the transfer case. You can get to these easily with a 13mm wrench, but they aren't easily accessible unless you go through the access panel.

4. Remove the passenger side top bolt. This bolt is very hard to reach, but if you get a u-joint, a 13mm socket, and a long extension you can reach it through the access panel. It helps to have one person under the truck to guide the socket into place and a person in the cab to loosen the bolt. You have to get the right angle but it can be done.

5. Remove the remaining three transfer case bolts from underneath. At this point you should already have your vehicle on jack stands since the vehicle is too low to the ground to get underneath. These bolts are easy to access.

6. Remove the front driveshaft.

7. Disconnect the rear driveshaft from the transfer case. You will need a 12-point 12mm socket. You can leave the rear driveshaft attached to the rear axle as it can just hang out of the way.

8. Disconnect the vacuum line to the transfer case.

9. Remove the transfer case. You can just slide the transfer case back and it should slide right off. Some fluid may drip out so have something underneath to catch it. You can positioin a hydraulic jack underneath the TC to support it as you slide it back, or you can do it the hard way if you are really strong. Just be aware that it is very heavy so be careful not to let it fall on you.

10. Reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to replace the gasket that goes between the TC and tranny and fill your new TC with fluid.

That's it!

BTW, this site was great and made it easy to find the info I needed to do the swap. Anyone who knows how to turn a wrench should be able to do this. Just make sure to be safe and always support the vehicle with a good set of jackstands.

 

[rtroup11989]

Hi Im Randy. I thank Duke Nukem & 70GS455. The Explorer iwas workin on is my gfs 97. I had everything undone from underneath n was stuck on that 1 dam bolt! I'd came inside n did a google search "t-case removal 97 explorer" i was linked 2 this fourm site. I just cant thank u 2 enough 4 that very helpfull info. Future plans: 2" lift 31s mb 33s n since ford made the explorers dual exhaust 2 the muffler, i wana finish it dual with probably 2 glasspacks or mb flowmasters!