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Help with toe-in

ckomai

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 21, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Long Beach,CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer
So I threw on some 1.5" lift coils from Rough Country. From what they advertise I can throw these on and keep everything else stock. I put them on and everything was fine but the tires have major toe-in. What can I do to fix this?
 



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ok correction major toe-out. Can the guys put this on the rack and fix this with an alignment machine or do I need shims?
 












So I threw on some 1.5" lift coils from Rough Country. From what they advertise I can throw these on and keep everything else stock. I put them on and everything was fine but the tires have major toe-in. What can I do to fix this?

When you threw on the longer coils it messed up the Toe, Camber and Caster. You can get away with the caster change.

Toe change will require turning the adjuster sleeves on the tie rods.

Camber change will require (unless someone already installed adjustable ones) Camber Cams. Those Camber cams goes around the upper balljoint.

In short, You need an alignment AND they will probably charge you $50+ for the Camber Cams you need on top of the cost of the alignment.

If you find a good (read that as a real alignment shop) they may be able to get your caster close to normal while they do the Camber fix. It depends on how far out of alignment you are now and how good they are. Shops that just do what the computer says probably won't be able to do it.. You didn't change caster that much so it shouldn't matter BUT, if the caster split (caster value difference between sides) is far enough it will pull to the more negative caster side.

~Mark
 






ok so I called Rough Country and they said this is normal and that the springs need to settle (I did think the springs lifted the truck way more than 1.5"). He said they need to be flexed so I floored it through the ditches around the neighbor hood and the the hood seems lower and the camber is noticibly better. I'll keep driving it and take it in for an alignment. Thanks for the info.
 






Don't wait too long, after lifting a 1st gen in any way, the toe change can and will cause your front end to start eating tires. And I don't mean in 20k miles. So, a week, sure. 6 months... no.
 






A true alignment from someone that knows what is required for a TTB should be done. I suggest you take to a Ford service center.

That being said, you can get very close on your own if you have a level surface and the proper tools.

You may need to buy new alignment cams and install them.

First, go buy some Kroil or Liquid wrench and spray the nut on top of the upper ball joint and both ends of it's pinch bolt. Then do it again, and again when you start your alignment.

You will need a 12mm, 12 point socket (1/2" driver preferred)
1 1/8" deep well 1/2" drive and (2 maybe 3) 6" extensions
I used a 15mm on the tie rods, I think that's a 5/8.
2 steel plates per wheel (4 total) with grease in between them. You can also use 2 magazines per wheel.
2 bubble levels that will fit level on your wheel. The smaller the bubble the more accurate.
2 4-5' copper pipe, or straight rods or something long, light and straight.

Drive over your slip plates. Do not use a jack. Set the parking brake and chock a real wheel. Inflate your tires. Use zip ties and mount the bubble level flat to your wheel so it is perpendicular to the truck. (pointing away)
Loosen the tie rod bolts, and upper ball joint pinch bolt. It is best if you make opposing alignment marks on the cam. This is so you disturb your caster as little as possible. Using the big deep well socket and extensions, turn the cam one way or the other until the bubble level is just on the outside of level (if possible). Don't turn one alignment mark past the other and your caster should stay put. Tighten the pinch bolt and recheck level.

Now take off your levels and zip tie your pipe flush to your wheels so they extend forward of the tires. Make a mark on the end, and as far back as possible on each pipe. Measure these two points and write them down. For the best handling you will want the tow in just a hair. So the farthest point away from the tires will have a very slightly shorter measurement than the nearer point. You will turn the tie rod sleeve the same number of turns each side (unless your steering wheel is off center). When your ever so slightly toe-ed in, tighten the sleeve pinch bolts and recheck.

Go for a test drive. Take it easy at first to make sure it doesn't pull or do anything funny. I would check everything again after a drive. It will change. I did mine on a dealership rack three times in a row. It does change after a drive and you will want to set it back.

Now your done, have a beer and pat on the back.
 






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