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Jude Kundla

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96 explorer, when the truck is cold it runs great, but when it heats to normal and i shut it off it does not want to start back up. the fuel pump is running 25-29 psi ( normal 35) when cold and is loader that normal. when the truck is hot and theres a chance that it does start, it runs like real ****. so do you think it's the fuel pump or what????
 



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Something to consider.
It could be electrical wire. If there were a gap in a wire, it could be small enough to the point where it connects when it is cold and expands beyond contact when hot. This could cause it to run bad and possibly not start as you mentioned.
I would take a close look at your plug wires. I have heard of similar things happening with these especially if they are old or a cheap brand.
I dont know what to tell you about the louder part??

I am not saying that this is your problem but i hope it gives you a different perspective when tracking down the problem.

Good luck,

Chris
 












Sorry.... a few "teas" and I was all set to launch into a treatise on us "rip-off" mechanics. Then I figured you could stumble around with anecdotal , sometimes costly parts replacements before you set out to learn some real diagnostic procedures.

Your fuel pressure sounds low for a SEFI system though checking the factory spec is the best bet. This doesn't sound like a "pattern" failure as far as any I've seen (climate and general use seem to affect these greatly) but there are many factors that can influence hard starting - including fuel pump performance (either due to poor pump condition or poor current supply).

Just as we do in the field, you need to eliminate each possible cause in turn - it becomes a choice of working from those that are either most likely to occur or cheapest to check (yes, we care about your wallet).

Used to be points and condenser would fix most problems - we'll never see those days again. Now, some diagnostics can approach the price of those late '50s/early '60s cars. In some cases it can be cheaper for me to replace a sensor than it is to test it - what would you have me do?

Sorry to vent and get wordy at the same time. To save money on vehicle repair, consider a course at a local vocational college, read the manual that came with your DVOM (especially the part about checking voltage drops) and make firends with your "rip-off" mechanic neighbour. We're here, we're helpful and we're honest..... just remember that we do this for a living.
 






HEY NO PROBLEM ABOUT THE VENTING, THE THING IS, IT'S NOT REALLY MY EXP. IT'S A BUBBY OF MINE THAT DOES NOT HAVE COMPUTER ACCESS TO POST THE PROBLEM. THE TRUCK WAS AT THE LOCAL RIP-OFF GAS STATION FOR A WEEK AND THEY TRIED EVERYTHING AND THEN FIGURED IT'S POSSIBLY THE FUEL PUMP.(THEY WERENT SURE) AND IF YOU WORK ON CARS EVERYDAY, IN MY OPION, IF THEY DON'T KNOW WHEN A FUEL PUMP IS BAD, I'M GOING TO SECOND GUESS THEM. I FIGURED THAT ONE OF YOU GUYS MIGHT HAVE A CLUE BEFORE I DROP HIS GAS TANK AND REPLACE THAT FOR HIM. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GIVE ME SOME ADVICE.
 






It might be the air mass flow sinsor. That is the little thing just after the airbox. I know they get dirty and then it doesn't run good. It thinks it is still cold and needs more fuel which makes it run rich.

It's just a thought...
Good Luck
 






For Jude and Perry

OK, Jude.... getting the whole story is difficult to do - even when the customer is standing in front of you. Shame on your friend for choosing a shop that sounds to be pretty new to electronic fuel controls - many mechanics have let themselves turn into dinosaurs...

Whether the problem is poor running or a "MIL" lamp with good running, it's very important to check the basics - fuel pressure and volume being very, very important basics. Side note - for fuel pressure measurements to mean anything, they need to be taken under load or when the problem surfaces.

I guess my only problem is with "rip-off" being so commonly used to describe techs and shops (though I will admit they seem to abound - more from ignorance than intent).

For Perry - up until OBDII, the 4 litre has both ECT (engine coolant temp) and ACT (air charge temp) sensors. The MAF only tells the computer how much air is entering the motor (and cannot account for vacuum leaks and doesn't care about temp other than what the change in air density does for flow). A common problem with the MAF sensor is the fine dirt that makes it's way through the filter. It can coat the MAFs "business parts" with something that looks like a fur coat through a magnifier.

On yet another side note - here in Canada, it has been a common practice to blow out air filters with an air hose. This can turn 2 micron filter paper into 200 micron filter paper and will allow much more in the way of airborne contaminants into your motor.

When we discuss vehicle repair - "Cheap ain't"
 






Crank Position Sensor may be bad. Run a search for that in threads. Believe it has caused problems similar to yours.
 






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