Hot Wheels part Deux

[Triton46]

OK, so I tried replacing the caliper slide pins on my front brakes and the driver side tire started locking up under hard braking (as well as getting extremely hot).

This weekend I bought some replacement calipers (fully loaded) from Advance Auto for $29 a piece, a great deal considering NAPA wanted $55 a piece. I drained the brake fluid and refilled, then bled the new brakes. Everything worked fine, the wheels did get hot the first day but I worked them hard to make sure they are working. The only weird thing is that brake pedal travel has increased. It goes almost to the floor before the brakes kick in, but they do kick in. Why would the travel of the pedal increase?

I checked the master cylinder to see if I needed to add more fluid, but it is full.

 

[JDraper]

You probably still have some air in the system. I think there is a specific order you have to bleed the wheels in. When you removed the old calipers, you may have had air bubbles travel up the line and get into the rest of the system. I would do a full system bleed to see if that helps. (Monroe auto does power bleeds cheap. I think it cost me $25 when I did my old Sport

 

[Triton46]

when I bled the system, I left both driver and passenger open. My girlfriend pumped the brakes until fluid shot out of the driver side caliper. I closed off the bleeder screw and had my girlfriend pump the brakes again. After a few more tries the passenger side shot out fluid and I closed off the bleeder screw.

Did I miss something? Both calipers should be full.

 

[rpenner54]

You need to open them one at a time. Start at the right rear and work your way forward. When you push on the pedal you open the bleeder, then you close it up once nothing else comes out (Brake is on the floor) then you let the brake go back up and repeat untill there are no air bubbles.

 

[Triton46]

When you push on the pedal you open the bleeder, then you close it up once nothing else comes out (Brake is on the floor) then you let the brake go back up and repeat untill there are no air bubbles.

Let me clarify to make sure I understand you:

1) Open right rear bleeder.
2) Push pedal down until fluid begins to flow out the bleeder.
3) Tighten bleeder.
4) Release pedal.
5) Repeat on next caliper.

Is this correct?

 

[JDraper]

You got it. But you have to push the pedal almost to the floor before closing the bleeder, and repeat what you said until there are no air bubbles present in the lines.

 

[Triton46]

OK, got the brakes bled and the pedal is back to normal. After some around the town driving and braking I got home and felt the wheels....HOT...not as hot as they were when the brakes were holding but still HOT.

I notice the car is not pulling hard to the driver side anymore, nor is it slowing down on its own. But what else could be causing this heat build up? I don't notice any ratcheting or clicking that might indicate a problem with the wheel bearings. In fact, if I drive to work (20 miles) without using the brakes much the wheels feel fine.

This may be normal, I just never checked it before. Can someone with a 91 4X4 comment on the temp of their wheels after normal braking.

 

[JDraper]

My '92 used to get pretty warm after normal braking. Enough that I really didn't want to work on them for about 20-30 minutes after I stopped. Normal braking will generate a good deal of heat, especially with a 2+ ton vehicle.

 

[Triton46]

Thanks Jeff, I was hoping you would respond since we had the exact same vehicle.

It used to burn the brake fluid as well, but that is gone now too...so I guess I am ok.