How can I make a BW1354 electric into a REAL manual shift? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How can I make a BW1354 electric into a REAL manual shift?

Carguy3J

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North East New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 4dr. XLT SOHC A4WD
Well, it would seem that the 1354 electric shift t-cases are much easier/cheaper to find. Plus, since they were used in much later years then the manual shift, I can find a good low mileage used one for a reasonable price.

However, this is a stock repair/replacement for my '93 Ranger, which came with a 1354M from the factory. Its just worn out.

So, how can I make an electric 1354 into a manual one? No, I'm not talking about a "shiftster" or any hokey homemade cobbled together nonsense that is simply a poor "stand in" for the electric motor. I'm not crawling under the truck to shift, nor am I drilling any new holes in the floor,etc... When done, it needs to function normally, with the stock shift linkage/handle,etc..

What I want is information how to actually, legitimately convert the electric case into a true, just like oem 1354 manual. I'm hoping I can just swap a few, non-wear parts from the manual, into the electric, to convert it, for less then the cost of rebuilding a tired/worn manual case.

Obviously, this will require opening up both a 1354e, and a 1354m donor. I know the internals are the same (gears,etc..) I'm GUESSING the rear case half's are different, to accommodate the 2 different shift methods/parts? Is this correct? What else? Details please, with pics if possible.
 



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There are also a number of threads here on EF where some have made their own linkage while others posted links to aftermarket parts which are still available last I heard..

I am subscribing to see what you come up with as a new cheap alternative.. :popcorn:
 






I only know of 1 E-shift case that's been converted to manual. If you want pics... Go track down the red '93 splash my buddy used to own. Last know whereabouts... Grand Rapids, Michigan. I built a 13-54M out of a 13-54 E-shift and a 13-50M donor about 10-11 years ago... We called it a 13-52.

What is "worn out" with your 13-54? Most parts are interchangeable between E-shift and manual shift cases. The E-shift case halfs can be modified to manual shift specs rather easily.
 






There are also a number of threads here on EF where some have made their own linkage while others posted links to aftermarket parts which are still available last I heard..

I am subscribing to see what you come up with as a new cheap alternative.. :popcorn:

I am aware of those "other" options. As I said, that is exactly what I DON'T want (homemade linkages, and/or "cheap" alternatives) What I am looking for is a trans/t-case expert/rebuilder to come in here and explain exactly how to mix/match parts INTERNALLY, to make the 1354e into an "as factory built" manual case.

To be clear, if you have ONLY an electric shift 1354, or no 1354 in your possession, what I am looking for won't help you. In other words, the guys who want to swap in a 1354m, in place of a 4405/4406/etc.... aren't going to get any "free lunch" out of this. You would need to have a 1354 MANUAL already in your possession, for the manual only parts. My intent here is to find a way to make use of cheaper/more readily available, and LOWER MILEAGE 1354 electric cases as a source of parts to repair/replace a worn manual case. Of course, you could completely break down a 1354E to rob it of parts for the 1354M, but I also want to avoid as much teardown as possible, keep as much of the better/newer 1354E as possible, and only swap over/replace the bare minimum from the "old" manual case.

Looking at the exploded diagram that "1996xlt" linked to, it should be entirely possible to do. Basically, install late(r) e-case guts in older manual case halves, changing only the handful of shift related parts that are different. It would appear, from that diagram, and parts list, that the vast majority of the parts are the same, including the shift forks and rails. I just need an "expert" to fill in the details.
 






I only know of 1 E-shift case that's been converted to manual. If you want pics... Go track down the red '93 splash my buddy used to own. Last know whereabouts... Grand Rapids, Michigan. I built a 13-54M out of a 13-54 E-shift and a 13-50M donor about 10-11 years ago... We called it a 13-52.

What is "worn out" with your 13-54? Most parts are interchangeable between E-shift and manual shift cases. The E-shift case halfs can be modified to manual shift specs rather easily.

Well, it sounds like a bunch of coins and/or rocks tumbling around in a dryer, and the rear output flange is hopping up and down like a small cam lobe.

Thanks to an incompetent trans shop that did the slave cyl/clutch when I first got the truck, I drove it around for a couple years with the t-case shifter not adjusted right/barely bolted in, so it spent a couple of winters driving around "half-way" in 4HI. When I replaced the slave again, I fixed the linkage, but damage done. Due to an unnoticed bad rear seal, it also got driven around for awhile nearly bone dry.

The E-shift case halfs can be modified to manual shift specs rather easily.
That's the kind of info I'm looking for. Exactly how/what do I modify? What else needs to be done/swapped? Keep in mind, I've built motors, and I'm not an idiot, but I've never opened a trans or t-case.
 






The T-case is 3 parts...
The front plate... there are 3 different ones:
Early model (only used on the 13-50). It had standard bolts to attach to the trans and a 4 gear planetary. This is the weakest plate made.
Later model (used on 13-50 and early 13-54s). 4gear planetary and drilled for metric trans bolts. Stronger casting.
Newest model (used at least up to '01). 6gear planetary... Metric bolts... Similar casting to the previous model. (This is the plate I would use.)


The front half:
The Only difference between the E-shift and manual shift front halfs:
The manual case is drilled for the shift shaft, detent ball and spring, and the sensor.
I don't have the specs anymore, but here's the best of my memory.
There's a flat spot (possibly a recess in the casting depending on the year.) where the shift shaft should come through. This has to be drilled out and reemed to a few thousandths over the diameter of the shaft. (It must be reemed for a smooth surface for the o-ring to seal.) Then you have to drill the same area 90 degrees to that hole for the spring, detent, and sensor. I drilled all the way through and tapped the bottom for a 1/8 pipe plug. That made it easier to assemble the detent and spring. The top has to be tapped for the sensor... I can't help you with that, I never bothered.

The rear half:

To convert an E-shift rear half to a manual half. Cut the long stem for the E-shift shaft off (inside the case, you can't miss it.) Drill and tap the remaining hole and install appropriate size pipe plug.
 






The T-case is 3 parts...
The front plate... there are 3 different ones:
...........
Later model (used on 13-50 and early 13-54s). 4gear planetary and drilled for metric trans bolts. Stronger casting.
Newest model (used at least up to '01). 6gear planetary... Metric bolts... Similar casting to the previous model. (This is the plate I would use.)
a.) What is the year break between the 4 gear and 6 gear? What is/isn't interchangeable with these 2 different parts? In other words, are there any other parts in the t-case that are specific to/dependent on which of these "plates" you use?

b.) How much stronger? Enough to be worth the effort of specifically trying to find, and/or paying extra to get, the 6 gear?

The front half:
The Only difference between the E-shift and manual shift front halfs:
The manual case is drilled for the shift shaft, detent ball and spring, and the sensor.
I don't have the specs anymore, but here's the best of my memory.
There's a flat spot (possibly a recess in the casting depending on the year.) where the shift shaft should come through. This has to be drilled out and reemed to a few thousandths over the diameter of the shaft. (It must be reemed for a smooth surface for the o-ring to seal.) Then you have to drill the same area 90 degrees to that hole for the spring, detent, and sensor. I drilled all the way through and tapped the bottom for a 1/8 pipe plug. That made it easier to assemble the detent and spring. The top has to be tapped for the sensor... I can't help you with that, I never bothered.

Any reason why I couldn't just use the manual case half? I wouldn't have an issue with installing new bearings in the old case. Are there areas of the case half itself that are subject to wear, which would cause me to not want to use the old case?

The rear half:

To convert an E-shift rear half to a manual half. Cut the long stem for the E-shift shaft off (inside the case, you can't miss it.) Drill and tap the remaining hole and install appropriate size pipe plug.

Again, any reason I couldn't just use the "old" manual case half (w/ new bearings)?

Thanks for the info.

Also, I don't know if you saw the other thread I started, but I'm really trying to find a "how-to" on the rebuild itself. I've Googled, I've searched youtube. I've searched here. I can't find anything on rebuilding a 1354. All the threads I've found, just fizzle out with no real info.
 






I would:

Use an aluminum 2/4wd shift fork from a 13-50 to replace the plastic fork used in most 13-54s ( not all. I don't remember what year they switched.)

Use the 6 gear planetary found in the later 13-54 (ford changed to this around '94 or so.)

Use the better high/low shift fork and hub found in the later 13-54. (It's hard to explain, but if you see the 2 different styles, go with the "disc" style.) you may have to use this style with the 6 gear planetary... I can't remember for sure.

Check the pump and case carefully. The pump goes in a groove on the rear case to keep it from spinning. If either has wear... Don't use it. These pumps are known to spin (either from the case or the pump wearing out. Piss-poor design.), when they spin the pickup hose breaks and it stops pumping. Good bye T-case.
 






a.) What is the year break between the 4 gear and 6 gear? What is/isn't interchangeable with these 2 different parts? In other words, are there any other parts in the t-case that are specific to/dependent on which of these "plates" you use?

b.) How much stronger? Enough to be worth the effort of specifically trying to find, and/or paying extra to get, the 6 gear?



Any reason why I couldn't just use the manual case half? I wouldn't have an issue with installing new bearings in the old case. Are there areas of the case half itself that are subject to wear, which would cause me to not want to use the old case?



Again, any reason I couldn't just use the "old" manual case half (w/ new bearings)?

Thanks for the info.

Also, I don't know if you saw the other thread I started, but I'm really trying to find a "how-to" on the rebuild itself. I've Googled, I've searched youtube. I've searched here. I can't find anything on rebuilding a 1354. All the threads I've found, just fizzle out with no real info.

The 4gear isn't much weaker, you can use it if that's all you have. If one of the cases has the 6gear, use it. The front plate must match the planetary. Don't even remove the planetary from the plate, unless you want to replace the bearing or the seal.

If you can reuse your manual case housings... Do it. If you can't... Now you know how to modify the E-shift case to work.

If you've rebuilt engines, you don't need a "how-to" on rebuilding a 13-54... They are dead simple.
 






I would:

Use an aluminum 2/4wd shift fork from a 13-50 to replace the plastic fork used in most 13-54s ( not all. I don't remember what year they switched.)
............

I thought they were all aluminum, but with a replaceable plastic "cover"/facing, like the shift fork pads, and/or like a chain guide?

........Check the pump and case carefully. The pump goes in a groove on the rear case to keep it from spinning. If either has wear... Don't use it. These pumps are known to spin (either from the case or the pump wearing out. Piss-poor design.), when they spin the pickup hose breaks and it stops pumping. Good bye T-case.

So, no problem with/wear issues on the FRONT case half? It sounds like that would be the more difficult half to modify anyway, so if I can just swap the old manual one in, that would be better.

I wonder if there is a way to improve on that pump retention design. Maybe I could have a local welder put in something to hold the pump a little more firmly. Maybe just tighten up the clearance between the "tab" on the pump and the case itself? That way, it would have less wiggle room, to start beating itself up?

Do you remember what else has to be changed, as far as the shift components, and how they fit together with everything else?
 






The 4gear isn't much weaker, you can use it if that's all you have. If one of the cases has the 6gear, use it. The front plate must match the planetary. Don't even remove the planetary from the plate, unless you want to replace the bearing or the seal.

If you can reuse your manual case housings... Do it. If you can't... Now you know how to modify the E-shift case to work.

If you've rebuilt engines, you don't need a "how-to" on rebuilding a 13-54... They are dead simple.

Well, I don't know if I agree with that. Put a pile of engine parts in front of me, and I can tell you what everything is, what it does, and where it goes. Not so with the t-case. I really don't quite understand exactly how it works, what parts are what, and where they go. for instance, I have no idea what you mean by "front plate". I guess, once I had it apart, it might make sense, but I can't afford the time or money of an experiment right now. I really need to have all "my ducks in a row" before a start doing anything with this. The whole planetary thing also just confuses me. I've never been able to grasp how it does what it does.
 






Well, I don't know if I agree with that. Put a pile of engine parts in front of me, and I can tell you what everything is, what it does, and where it goes. Not so with the t-case. I really don't quite understand exactly how it works, what parts are what, and where they go. for instance, I have no idea what you mean by "front plate". I guess, once I had it apart, it might make sense, but I can't afford the time or money of an experiment right now. I really need to have all "my ducks in a row" before a start doing anything with this. The whole planetary thing also just confuses me. I've never been able to grasp how it does what it does.

Open up your spare case... You'll see how simple these cases really are. If your in a real bind... Pick up a cheap E-shift case to throw in the truck as a temporary case to be able to drive the truck. Any 13-50, 13-54, 44-05 will bolt in and give you 2wd.
 






Open up your spare case... You'll see how simple these cases really are. If your in a real bind... Pick up a cheap E-shift case to throw in the truck as a temporary case to be able to drive the truck. Any 13-50, 13-54, 44-05 will bolt in and give you 2wd.

I'm planning on throwing the spare manual case in this afternoon. As soon as I can drag my butt away from the computer, I've got to get to Rockland Gear for a seal kit.
On that note, The torque specs I've found online list 250-280 ft-lbs, for the front and rear output shaft nuts. That seems like an awful lot of preload on the bearings. Is that number right?
 






I'm planning on throwing the spare manual case in this afternoon. As soon as I can drag my butt away from the computer, I've got to get to Rockland Gear for a seal kit.
On that note, The torque specs I've found online list 250-280 ft-lbs, for the front and rear output shaft nuts. That seems like an awful lot of preload on the bearings. Is that number right?

IDK... I just zip them on with an impact gun until they are tight.
 






I am eager to see this being done soon..:biggthump

I have an 1354E that I was not sure what to do with if I swapped in my 1354M into my X..

I'm planning on throwing the spare manual case in this afternoon. As soon as I can drag my butt away from the computer, I've got to get to Rockland Gear for a seal kit.

Looking forward to your write up..
 






I am eager to see this being done soon..:biggthump

I have an 1354E that I was not sure what to do with if I swapped in my 1354M into my X..



Looking forward to your write up..

I hate to disappoint you, but I think you may have misunderstood. For now, I am just throwing in an old junkyard 1354M that I've had laying under a tarp for a couple of years (I did put new output shaft seals in yesterday.). It may or may not be any better then what's in there now. The fluid looked clean and red, so hopefully it will be an improvement. I am glad I didn't toss it in the scrap pile last year when my landlord was on me to clean up.

EVENTUALLY ($$$$$), I may acquire a low mileage 1354 E, and attempt to convert it to manual, with parts from the bad 1354M that is coming out today. Or I may just give up and pay $595 for a rebuilt manual case w/ a warranty....... Considering that a low mileage used 1354E is going to cost $200-$300, it may not make sense to even bother with this, now that I've had a day to think it over. There would be another $35 or so, just in seals. If I needed any "major" part (shift fork, oil pump, chain,etc..) it would end up costing more then just getting a rebuilt. Yes, you can get a high/unknown mileage t-case in the $100-$150 range, but the whole point of this, for me, was how to get the newest/best parts for the lowest possible cost. I had assumed that a professionally rebuilt case would be much more money then what I was quoted. I guess, maybe the only advantage would be getting the "later" internals, if I made my own from a late model electric case unit.

Either way, I would like to at least crack open the "bad" one, just to see whats in there, and what went wrong. If/when I do that, I will try to take and post pics. The rebuilder didn't mention a core, so maybe I could keep my old one?

I don't know... Right now I'm just kinda burnt out, and getting really stressed and tired of throwing money at this truck. :mad:If I had it to all over again, I would of just pulled the plug a couple years ago. For everything I have already spent on this, and what I'm about to spend, I could have fixed my old Chevy 3/4 ton, and had 3 times the cargo capacity (and twice the horsepower).Plus, it had ice cold a/c when I parked it about 10yr ago. :)eek:WOW, I can't believe its been that long!) Oh well, I guess I'm committed to this thing now.......
 






I cleaned up this thread. Carguy you can now carry on without commercial interruption ;)
 






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