How Do I Get It On Jack Stands? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How Do I Get It On Jack Stands?

snickstx

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 2, 2006
Messages
127
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City, State
Fort Worth, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 EBX
Lost access to a lift so I'm doing the work solo, need to get all 4 in the air. I've read several threads here with mixed info about lifting and securing. Can anyone provide a step-by-step to safely lift and secure using a floor jack and 4 jack stands?
 



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Easiest way is to do one corner at a time. Use a floor jack and place the cup on the frame (leave room to put the jack stand as far forward as you can on the frame) then jack it up high enought to place the jackstand.

Please make sure you do it on a flat surface and put the emergency brake on.

Hope this helps.
 






Sounds good. So, brakes on, front up 1st, then rear? No need for wheel chocks? There cheap enough for me to grab a set if needed for safety. I'm an hour from the nearest hospital.

Thanks for the info.
 






i did it right side first and left side second when i did my engine swap... there are dimonds cut out on the sides of the frame where the frame is designed to hold vehicle weight.
 






Use whatever you can to keep it from rolling, so I would definitely get some wheel chocks if you want to be on the safe side.
 






What, nobody raises 'em high enough for the tires to clear the floor? And what about jobs requiring removal of the wheels? Chocks are to me most useful when only one end of the vehicle is raised, and 2 wheels remain on the pavement.

Jack stands need to be properly located, sturdy enough for the particular vehicle, and installed straight such that they cannot tip and allow falling off.

Just my thoughts. BTW, I got a good tip from a neighbor recently, regarding driving a vehicle up on ramps/supports. These things often slide away as the tires try to climb onto them. If a 4X4 is being worked on, placing it in 4WD will aid in climbing the ramps, especially if normal drive wheels (rear, probably) are not on a fairly rough surface. He added that he HATES ramps......I'm inclined to agree! imp
 






What, nobody raises 'em high enough for the tires to clear the floor? And what about jobs requiring removal of the wheels? Chocks are to me most useful when only one end of the vehicle is raised, and 2 wheels remain on the pavement.

Jack stands need to be properly located, sturdy enough for the particular vehicle, and installed straight such that they cannot tip and allow falling off.

Just my thoughts. BTW, I got a good tip from a neighbor recently, regarding driving a vehicle up on ramps/supports. These things often slide away as the tires try to climb onto them. If a 4X4 is being worked on, placing it in 4WD will aid in climbing the ramps, especially if normal drive wheels (rear, probably) are not on a fairly rough surface. He added that he HATES ramps......I'm inclined to agree! imp

We always put the end of the ramps up against where the garage starts and driveway ends. There's like a lip there because the garage is higher up, so we stick 'em up against that and they don't slide at all. :thumbsup:


As for the OP, we usually do front and back, not side and side. But whatever floats your boat.
 






Do not raise the back end by lifting from the rear differential. It's aluminium! On the rear lift from the bottom of the lower control arm I usually start with the front end because the emergency brake is on the rear wheels and will keep car from rolling. After the front is up in the air it can't roll. Lift from front bottom of lower control arms also. If you remove all 4 wheels you may want to lay the wheels under the frame rails... kinda of a backup for the jack stands. When putting car down start with the rear and the front last.
 






What, nobody raises 'em high enough for the tires to clear the floor? And what about jobs requiring removal of the wheels? Chocks are to me most useful when only one end of the vehicle is raised, and 2 wheels remain on the pavement.

Jack stands need to be properly located, sturdy enough for the particular vehicle, and installed straight such that they cannot tip and allow falling off.

Just my thoughts. BTW, I got a good tip from a neighbor recently, regarding driving a vehicle up on ramps/supports. These things often slide away as the tires try to climb onto them. If a 4X4 is being worked on, placing it in 4WD will aid in climbing the ramps, especially if normal drive wheels (rear, probably) are not on a fairly rough surface. He added that he HATES ramps......I'm inclined to agree! imp

Imp, I believe that they were suggesting using the blocks during the lifting process so the vehicle doesn't roll off the already placed jack stands while lifting a side that is not on jack stands. :salute:

------Rondo
 






Just a side note regarding the chocks. If you ever lifted vehicle off the ground and realized that you didn't loosen the lug nuts and there no one around to step on the brakes to stop the wheel from spinning and you don't have an impact gun? If the truck is not too high and the chock can fit against the tire it will stop the wheel from spinning while you either tighten or loosen the lug nuts.
 






Just a side note regarding the chocks. If you ever lifted vehicle off the ground and realized that you didn't loosen the lug nuts and there no one around to step on the brakes to stop the wheel from spinning and you don't have an impact gun? If the truck is not too high and the chock can fit against the tire it will stop the wheel from spinning while you either tighten or loosen the lug nuts.

Chunks of 6x6 wooden posts, and concrete cinder blocks work well for this too...;)

I normally do two at a time... I'll lift the whole front end off the ground, place both front jackstands, then move to the rear to do the same thing... but with your's you can't do the rear the same as mine... I have the solid rear axle.
 






Just a side note regarding the chocks. If you ever lifted vehicle off the ground and realized that you didn't loosen the lug nuts and there no one around to step on the brakes to stop the wheel from spinning and you don't have an impact gun? If the truck is not too high and the chock can fit against the tire it will stop the wheel from spinning while you either tighten or loosen the lug nuts.

Sounds like you are speaking from experience, lol. Good suggestion. :salute:

Chunks of 6x6 wooden posts, and concrete cinder blocks work well for this too...;)

I normally do two at a time... I'll lift the whole front end off the ground, place both front jackstands, then move to the rear to do the same thing... but with your's you can't do the rear the same as mine... I have the solid rear axle.

The 6x6 & cinder block is a good suggestion as well. The rear can be done at the same time. The jack stands have to be placed under the frame at or near the diamond cut-outs. You just pay attention so you can get the jack out after the jack stand is placed. Ask me how I know this? :salute:
 






Thanks for all the great replies. This thread has been very helpful providing the safe procedures. Maybe I'll take some pictures when she goes up. Now, a bit of advice for others...make sure you check the dates on your brake fluid BEFORE you leave the dealership. I bought 4 pints this morning to do the flush, 2 bottled 2010, 1 bottled '09, 1 bottled '07!!! 3 years sitting on a storeroom shelf in a plastic bottle can't be good.
 






Humble Pie!

I stand corrected regarding the chocks.........imp
 






Thanks again, got her way up in the air today without any trouble. I wasn't able to use the rear lower control arm because the base of my jack was too wide. Instead, I used the frame rail just in front of it and it worked great. In fact it provided enough lift that I could set both rear jack stands at the same time. I am going to grab some chocks so I can work with just one end in the air next time though.
 






Thanks for the update. Glad you made it out OK, lol!
 






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