how hard is it to put a amp in a box?

[CdnCory]

i listen to mostly country,


so i think, _Sealed__ is better.

Sealed I would think. I have never litstened to country beside when my alarmclock goes off in the morning. I just cant see country having big bass....

 

[snocross1985]

Cory is right. Though I listen to a lot of rock, my bass is also nice when I occasionally listen to rap. So you aren't restricted to one type of music. Just build the box (or buy) for your primary music preference.

 

[CdnCory]

kinda off topic but, Sno, did you every replace those dash bulbs, more importantly, did you take pics


Cory

 

[Nate1]

Here is a more accurate statement:

If I have the extra space, a carefully buildt ported box will be more tonally accurate, quicker responding, get louder, and hit lower, with more cone control and more thermal dissipation.

Fact is, a well buildt ported box sounds better than a sealed box, hands down. It's just a more complex design that takes alot of prep and math. And no, no prefab crap "qlogic" or otherwise box will suffice... you would need to make your own.

 

[CdnCory]

I dont think it's that hard to make a tuned box with programs like winISD. You just plug in the t/s parameters, frquency then build away. But, the fact that he wants to mount the amp inside does make it a bit more complicated because it'll be near impossible to calculate the displacement of the amp.

Cory

 

[Nate1]

No it wont! Depending on the size/shape of the amp, getting a good enough estimate should be doable.

And winISD pro does not account for port displacement... thus something like www.bace1.com 's calcs are needed, and then fed into winISD for mag/freq charts, etc.

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

No it wont! Depending on the size/shape of the amp, getting a good enough estimate should be doable.

And winISD pro does not account for port displacement... thus something like www.bace1.com 's calcs are needed, and then fed into winISD for mag/freq charts, etc.

linky no worky

 

[CdnCory]

so i can flip up side down with the panel removed so i can see all the "do-dads" inside of the amp

With the cover off, it will NOT be a straight forward LxWxH calculation. It is not a big issue, like you say, a good estimate will be good enough. But you also say 'carefully built' and that there is 'alot of math and prep' involved... so I thought we were talking exact here because its very little amount of work to design and fab a simple ported box.

And its http://www.bcae1.com/

 

[expo5.0]

either way the truth is its not worth doing it for this set-up.

you won't be happy with this amp and sub for long, don't waste your time trying to make it look cool

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

either way the truth is its not worth doing it for this set-up.

you won't be happy with this amp and sub for long, don't waste your time trying to make it look cool

why is this, proformance, or me just with my never ending thrist for modding stuff?

 

[expo5.0]

both

 

[Cartman]

To understand the difference between ported and sealed go down to any stereo shop and try out the demo equipment with your music, listen to your music in a sealed and a ported box and determine it for yourself. Personally I like sealed but I have a high end sub (Love my MTX 9512 - thanks Expo) and 800 watts RMS powering it so there is no lack of output.

Also a properly built sealed box will respond faster and have a greater range then ported, what nweibley was saying i've never heard before and goes against everything I know. If you look at frequency curves ported peak at the tuned frequency then drop off quick, sealed has a flatter curve.

About actually mounting the amp, if you have heard the amp/sub setup and like it and are aware of what it can do then you should be happy with it and may as well go for a cool enclosure, even if after a year you replace it then you have some more expirence for the next box.

 

[expo5.0]

Its possible to build a sealed box that has a flat curve too- just much much much larger and harder to build for a nominal gain in most situations.

you guys are both right.

for most people with mid to low end subs i recommend ported enclosures almost exclusively.

but it has to be a custom built enclosure for your particular set-up no matter what.

 

[expo5.0]

cartman- that box is cool!

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

First off you guys, have killed my grand dreams of grandger.....so I am going to build a regular basic box with a hidden lower compartment for the amp.


Second, MDF is freaking heavy!!!!! I booked ass to the home depot after school, on Thursday got there at 8:30pm and they do not like to cut wood at that hour, the only sizes were 2' by 4' or 73" by 90something.

I got the bigger one, so rite now there is a video of my there, trying to figure out how to get the wood on the cart, it is a 2 person job, then I pay for it load it in the EX pretty easy, and the tail light guards work well as tie down points.

On a side note my grandpa is going to help me build the box, I come from the school of good enough and he is more of the kind of guy that: make plans, use the plans, something called measuring? And predrilling?


i have read www.crutchfield.com And just need to know if there are any other tips, aside from using braces, 2 "screws, good glue???

 

[mexi]

That is too much torture to subject an amp to in my opinion. Even mounting to the back of a box is not perferred.

yeah he is right not a good idea .that is a potential problem putting that amp under constint vibration

 

[4FordFamily]

I have a sealed box for my 2 12's and 2 15's. Each sub is in it's own compartment (as most sealed boxes should be) I REALLY like the sound it makes for every kind of music. Then again, i have no lack of power with an audiobahn high current dual fan 4000 watt ach power amp. If you run this badboy in .5 ohms you are really getting some power. Too much infact.

In reality, if you want a good hitting system. A 1000 watt amp, 2 12's or 2 15's (15's are more sluggish but deep, 12's "hit" harder and higher generally)
that can HANDLE 500 watts RMS each. .... Peak power is complete garbage and should be completely ignored. I would recommend subs that handle 600 watts+ rms so you will get good life out of them. At this point, it won't really matter what kind of box you have because of how powerful 1000 REAL watts really is. Its unbelievable.

Word of caution. do NOT build a box with thin wood on "top" (top being the side you screw the subs in to and cut out etc.) It will bust the screws at 1000 TRUE watts and you will be pissed off breaking 1/6 inch screws and bigger. I wound up bolting my on with my old 3 15's box because i built it poorly. Just some advice for you first hand.

I would sell your set up if you want a LOUD system, and forget about making it look "COOL" Just don't trash-rig it. Keep it clean.

If 300 watts (If that is peak, you're going to likely be disappointed with your amps performance, and if RMS there's a chance that may be all you need) is what you want and need, then have at it. I am just an audio freak and im NEVER satisfied with anything.

Good luck and remember DONT HALFASS IT

 

[mexi]

In reality, if you want a good hitting system. A 1000 watt amp, 2 12's or 2 15's (15's are more sluggish but deep, 12's "hit" harder and higher generally)

not true it depends on the sub they have diff Q and the motor stregth is a factor to if you go with a ported box you can tune it to any frequency responce you want nomatter what the size is

 

[4FordFamily]

Yeah when comparing say sony xplod's vs JL W7's

In general your amp, in my mind is the main component. You can even make sony xplod's loud. Sure sound q will suck, and they won't last more than 5 minutes. LOL

 

[CdnCory]

hey, Sony rules!!

:thumbdwn: