how hard would it be to move rear axle back 3-6 inches

[ccanuk]

I'd like to put larger than 32" tires on my 94 4 door explorer without putting a lift kit on, just cutting the fenders, in order to do that I'd have to move the rear axle back a few inches as the rear doors wrap around the first 1/4 of the wheel well

I'm assuming it would be a matter of cutting off the current mount points for the leaf springs and shocks and reweld them back on further back on the frame and getting a longer driveshaft.

has anyone done this, I think I've heard about this being done before, but I can't find any posts on it.

thanks

 

[Critical_Level2]

Instead of moving the axle, you could get fiberglass fenders for the rear, they would give alot more room and are 2 piece to help cover the rear door.

 

[Doug]

It can be done several ways, you can get springs with with offset centering pins and that'll move it back a few inches. If you move everything back your going to have to extend the frame and it will require alot of custom work. What size tires are you looking to fit? A sawzall is going to be your best friend, or fiberglass fenders.

 

[ccanuk]

I don't quite understand how i could do that using a saws all, the distance between the rear door and the wheel well opening in the fender is just over an inch.

If I want to put 35s on I'll need to widen the wells at least 3" which would be 2 inches or so into the door and the cab floor. That would involve a lot of custom body fabrication I would think, I might even have to make a custom rear seat.

Are you saying that fiberglass fenders will fill in that area that I'd have to cut into the door and floor?

I want to basically not use any lift kits at all, just run bigger tires and cut out my fenders and add flares.

 

[Hartman]

Why would you want to do such a thing?

 

[ccanuk]

keeps me from raising my center of balance as much, and I like the look of the icelandic 4x4s where they do much the same thing... little bit of lift and a whole lot of cutting.

 

[410Fortune]

well you keep the center of gravity low thats why.
The fiberglass fenders will allow you to cut out a bunch of sheet metal and hide the ugliness, wile providing room for bigger tires.

You can move the axle back a couple inches by getting custom leafs springs, or re-locating the centering pin on your leafs, this is not the best way to do it but it works. Your driveshaft may need some attention as well as your shock mounts, brake lines, and e brake cables.

 

[Stic-o]

I don't under stand why you don't just put a body lift on it

It's cheap, most of the weight is still low.

 

[Positive Vibes]

I'm with Stic-o, I just don't get it???

What do you plan on doing with the vehicle?? Snow? Rocks? Mud? Sand? All of the above???

 

[ccanuk]

I'd be using this for general off road, I won't be rock crawling, but I will be in mud, sand, lots of snow, and steep hills. Plus this would be something I could do in my garage without too much work... and save the money for a tranny upgrade and a doubler.

This would be for vehicle recovery and search & rescue support, where I don't go out to push it to the limits of offroadability, but need to get to somewhere quickly off road and can go around most serious obsticals. Basically where I go now, but with much much more floatation and less worry about hitting small rocks and ruts and not raise the center of gravity too much so I can maintian a higher speed.

Think grassy fields, brush, and washed out logging trails.

 

[Jefe]

You shouldn't have to trim anything in front of the rear tire until you get up to a 37" tire. Many of us run 35's and stuff them just fine.

Look here for trimming: 35's on a 2000

35 in rear wheel well:

heck, with my trimming up front I was running 35's on a 3" TT and no BL for a few weeks before doing the SAS.

 

[ccanuk]

cool, but you have a lift kit on in that pic right? I'm trying to do it without any lift... I suppose I could put on shackles in the rear and f150 spacers up front for another 2 inches of lift...

that wouldn't be all that much...

I'm sure I'd rub quite a bit though...

gotta try it out I guess

 

[jimbo74]

according to his post.. he only had a 3" torsion bar twist at the time... no bodylift

 

[ccanuk]

no lift in the rear?

 

[Jefe]

cool, but you have a lift kit on in that pic right? I'm trying to do it without any lift... I suppose I could put on shackles in the rear and f150 spacers up front for another 2 inches of lift...

That pic is with a 3" BL and shackles. What I'm trying to point out is that it won't do you any good to move the axle back. A 35 clears the front of the fender well.

Now as for clearing the top, you're gonna need some kind of lift. 2-3" minimum and keep the sway bars hooked up, or you're gonna rub.

 

[ccanuk]

*face in hands*

I don't think you understand what I'm trying to do.

I'm looking to cut the fenders so I don't have to lift, I can't cut the fender 3" all around because the rear doors wrap around the front of the rear well...

if I move the axel back3", I can cut 6" off the back of the wheel well, and 3 from the top to give me an all around 3" extra clearance without lifting.

I'm not looking for flex and articulation but stability, floatation and ground clearance under the axles.

 

[osker75]

why such a big tire ?

 

[yosh18981898]

Most guys will tell you that an explorer with a 6" lift and 35's feels as stable as a stock height explorer with stock size tires.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Most guys will tell you that an explorer with a 6" lift and 35's with cutting feels as stable as a stock height explorer with stock size tires.

I agree. I think you need to do some research. I have around 7" of lift and with the adjustable ranchos I can corner just a good a stock. The X's don't flip or roll easy. That is was due to tire pressure and drivers abilities.

 

[Jefe]

I don't think you understand what I'm trying to do.

I'm looking to cut the fenders so I don't have to lift, I can't cut the fender 3" all around because the rear doors wrap around the front of the rear well...

if I move the axel back3", I can cut 6" off the back of the wheel well, and 3 from the top to give me an all around 3" extra clearance without lifting.

I'm not looking for flex and articulation but stability, floatation and ground clearance under the axles.

So you're planning to hack the hell out of the fender well, but you don't want to touch the door. Why not just trim the door some to match your new fender cut?

So let me ask you this. How do you plan to clear 35's with no lift up front? You're gonna have to tube the front and move half the stuff in the engine bay elsewhere in order to get any uptravel whatsoever.

And if you ask me, flex/articulation is what creates stability.