How many blend door actuators are there?

[alex212]

Hi folks, It's been a while since I've been on these forums, hope all of you are well. A few years back I decided to keep my 03 4x4 limited V8 and glad I did. I just couldn't sell it, for lot's of reasons. Great SUV but not without it's share of problems. Before I get to my question, I'll just add that I' bought my Explorer new in 03 and in the last year I replaced the entire suspension / hubs / tie rod ends /bushings / drive shafts /serviced everything, knowing that I plan on keeping her for a long while. Still runs and drives great with 145K miles.

That aside, I believe I have a blend door actuator issue. I can hear some clicking, I get no AC on the drivers side, passenger side and rear is good, filter is clean and I have the automatic climate control.

My question is, how many door actuators are there on my system? I think there are two but can't confirm. If I'm going to pay someone to take out the console / dash and replace the one I want to replace all and everything that could be a potential failure.

By the way I'm being quoted 7 hours to do the job by my local shop. I've used these guys before, no issues, and he showed me in his maintenance manual where it quotes 7 hrs. That said, I doubt it will take that long, but whatever. So since they will have it all apart, I want replace any potential failure items.

Thanks in Advance

 

[J_C]

AFAIK, there should be one blend door for each independent control of temperature, so for example if driver's side and passenger (and/or rear) both have independent control for temp (not just fan speed) then there would need to be a blend door for each.

7 hours? Wow, I can't see it taking anywhere near that long, would hesitate to pay that much ($700+ labor?) for an '03.

Here's a video, looks like it has manual controls but possibly the blend door is in the same place? The video didn't show every single second of his doing the repair, but if it's the same repair, I can't see this taking over an hour... maybe a little longer doing it for the first time.

Unfortunately most if not all of these seem to have manual rather than EATC, automatic temperature control.

How to: - Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how...

www.explorerforum.com

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Explorer+blend+door+actuator

If nothing else, before paying for several hours of labor, I'd see if I can better locate the noise, maybe poke your head up under the dash on the driver's side and if coming from further right, take out glovebox or center console or radio. I could be wrong but doubt 7 hours worth of the whole dash really has to be taken off.

 

[alex212]

AFAIK, there should be one blend door for each independent control of temperature, so for example if driver's side and passenger (and/or rear) both have independent control for temp (not just fan speed) then there would need to be a blend door for each.

7 hours? Wow, I can't see it taking anywhere near that long, would hesitate to pay that much ($700+ labor?) for an '03.

Here's a video, looks like it has manual controls but possibly the blend door is in the same place? The video didn't show every single second of his doing the repair, but if it's the same repair, I can't see this taking over an hour... maybe a little longer doing it for the first time.

Unfortunately most if not all of these seem to have manual rather than EATC, automatic temperature control.

How to: - Replace Front Blend Door Actuator in 3rd Gen Ex.

This is my how to for replacing the blend door actuator on the 3rd Gen Ex. The Blend Door Actuator controls the hot/cold temperature in the vehicle, not where the air is blowing from or fresh air/recirculated air. While researching this issue I found several discussions, but no definitive how...

www.explorerforum.com

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Explorer+blend+door+actuator

If nothing else, before paying for several hours of labor, I'd see if I can better locate the noise, maybe poke your head up under the dash on the driver's side and if coming from further right, take out glovebox or center console or radio. I could be wrong but doubt 7 hours worth of the whole dash really has to be taken off.

I've seen those but nothing with Automatic controls. The $700 he quoted was for labor so it's $700 + parts. You think that's bad, the Ford dealer quoted me $1450. My local guy is calling me back at the end of the week for a firm quote parts and labor. We'll see where he's at and try to talk him down.

I have three individual temp controls. One for driver, passenger and rear (located on roof console). So your saying I may have three blend doors / actuators.

 

[J_C]

Just looked in the Workshop Manual, it states two, quote:

2003 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual

Temperature Blend Door Actuators​

The DATC system utilizes two temperature blend door actuators to control two separate temperature blend doors that independently vary the LH side and RH side temperature settings, as desired. The temperature blend door actuators:

• are located on the heater core and evaporator core housing.
• moves the temperature blend door on command from the DATC module.
• contains a reversible electric motor and a potentiometer. The potentiometer wiper is connected to the actuator output shaft and moves with the output shaft to indicate the position of the temperature blend door.
• apply a 5 volt signal to one end of the potentiometers and ground to the other. The voltage available at the wiper indicates the position of each potentiometer. The expressed value of the actuator wiper voltage is sent to the DATC module and is matched with an expected wiper voltage value. The DATC module then drives the actuator motor in whichever direction is necessary to make the actuator wiper voltage agree with the expected DATC module wiper voltage value.

BUT then under Auxiliary Climate Control section, then states one and shows a basic diagram and lists it, so looks like 3 total when there is rear control.

Okay I found some info on the left hand blend door, hold on a minute...

 

[J_C]

Okay this is for the EATC version, driver's side (Left Hand). It doesn't look that much different than in the videos for manual climate control, looks to me like 1.5 hrs on your first try, 1 hr or less once you've done it a time or two. It does look like a different part # for the EATC blend door motor than for the manual version.

Frankly I would DIY this repair. See attached Workshop Manual Pages which also include the instructions for the center console and steering cover removal to do it.

The actuator itself is only ~$25 or so delivered.

2003 FORD EXPLORER 4.6L V8 Heater Air Door Actuator | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[alex212]

I took a look at that manual .pdf you attached and it seems lts telling you to take out the whole dash. The videos tell you to just take out the center console, center stack except the radio and remove braces on each side. Like you said it only looks like a couple hours work, maybe 4 hours total for both driver and passenger.

Ten years ago I wouldn't of thought twice, but my bad back and achy everything else limit me on what I can do. Last year I did the entire suspension but that was with a lift and the help of friend in the shop where he worked, but unfortunately he passed away. So now Im at the mercy of local shops, although there are a couple I've used that are good and reasonable. I just want to get my facts straight before I call.

If I have to pay someone to take all that apart. Im having them do both sides. Im not to concerned about the rear, unless it's right there with the other two.

Thanks JC, appreciate your help.

 

[J_C]

No not the whole dash, they simply refer to the section that shows taking the whole dash out instead of repeating information multiple times in the same Workshop Manual, within that dash "501-01" section it's only the lower piece you need to take off, that I refer to below.

The first Removal and Installation page states, step #2, only "remove the steering column opening cover", nothing else dash related, so that is all that is dash related that seems to need removed. That is only Item #3 (part 04459) on page 5 (page that's named section 501-01-2).

It is no time savings to do the other side while the left side is being done, at least not for the actual labor. The service manager, shop bay being taken up, more profit per customer, considering all these things then maybe a shop would give you a bulk discount but then again, I doubt they only want to charge $25 each for the parts.

This is not the type of repair that needs any special tools or techniques, but I completely understand if your back is not up to it. That doesn't mean you should be cheated out of an extra ~$500+ for what isn't that hard of a repair for those who can contort themselves to get to it.

I'd tell a shop you received an estimate that it will take 1.5 hours and see if they'll do the repair for $200 total, all-in, labor and the actuator. If they disagree, show them the PDF I attached. Heh, maybe the person doing the estimate, also thought it was the whole dash that had to come off when it looks like it's only a couple bolts holding that steering cover on... but they are not going to want to charge any less than they think they can get away with!!

 

[alex212]

So just steering column cover, center stack and center console, which from the videos can all be removed easily.

Oh Im definitely challenging their 7 hour estimate. I know how they work, charge what the book says, even if it only takes a fraction of the time.
I'll check around, this is a fairly common issue Im sure I'll find someone that will do it for a fair price. Till then, I'll point the passenger vent my way.

 

[alex212]

So I talked to the shop today and they agreed that the driver's is not a 7 hour job and quoted me 2.5 which I guess is reasonable. But he went on to say that he was showing me the time for the "main" blend door. Is he referring to the passenger side or is there another door?

Just to recap, I have automatic dual front zone and rear zone climate control. That said, how does front dual zone work when dual zone is off? Is the driver's blend door used for both sides?

What Im finding:
Rear works fine goes hot to cold using overhead temp knob. Passenger side also works as it should hot to cold when dual zone is selected but the drivers side only blows hot. With dual zone off all front vents blow hot no cold air can be felt.

Also, I was thinking shouldn't this issue be setting codes and isn't there a way to pull them from the climate control panel?

 

[mountaineer2004]

I did this job myself. it's fairly easy if you're willing to do a little cutting.
www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2002-explorer-limited-dual-climate-issue.495359/#post-3909603

 

[J_C]

I don't know all the details of your dual zone controls, but would assume when dual zone is off, that the two blend doors just operate in parallel. The workshop manual does not refer to either of the two as the master, just the left and right hand side.

The right hand side does appear to need a lot more dash and trim panels removed for access. The question is which one of them is clicking or otherwise presume since the left side isn't getting the cold A/C that it is the one of the two not operating correctly.

Yes your EATC has the capability of reporting errors it can detect. Workshop Manual states this:

2003 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Diagnostic Methods


The dual automatic temperature control system must be diagnosed by first retrieving any DTCs, if present.

• An on-demand (hard fault) DTC indicates that the fault is currently present. An on-demand DTC suggests a wiring fault, disconnected connector, or component failure.
• A continuous (intermittent) DTC alone (corresponding on-demand DTC is not present) indicates that the fault is an intermittent condition and may not be currently present. A continuous only DTC suggests a poor wiring connection, loose pin or terminal, or intermittent component failure.

On-demand (hard fault) or continuous (intermittent fault) DTCs can be retrieved using a diagnostic tool. If using a diagnostic tool, refer to the diagnostic tool operating manual.


On-demand DTCs can also be retrieved by carrying out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module on-demand Self-Test. To retrieve and/or clear continuous DTCs carry out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure. Always carry out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module on-demand Self-Test before retrieving continuous DTCs.


If no DTCs are present, GO to Symptom Chart for the appropriate diagnostic action.

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module On-demand Self-Test​

The DATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the DATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.

• The DATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
• The DATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°C - 38°C (40°F - 100°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
• The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
• To enter the self-test press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds, after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the DATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
• If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
• If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
• To exit the self-test and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The DATC module will exit the self-test and retain all continuous DTCs.
• To exit the self-test and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The DATC module will exit the self-test and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
• Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
• Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs​

The DATC module will retrieve only continuous (intermittent) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.

• Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
• To retrieve continuous DTCs press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within two seconds. All vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. Continuous DTCs are indicated by the presence of the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) on the DATC module display. Record all DTCs displayed.
• If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Dual Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
• If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
• To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The DATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
• To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The DATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
• Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the procedure is exited the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the temperature blend door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
• Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Diagnostic Trouble Code Index

DUAL/ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL (DATC) MODULE DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) INDEX
NOTE: All DTCs can be retrieved as an on-demand (hard fault) or continuous (intermittent fault) fault. If a continuous (intermittent) fault, the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) will be displayed in addition to the DTCs.

DTC​	DATC DTC displayed​	Notes​	Description​	Action to Take​
B2266​	2266​	N/A​	LH blend door failure or short​	Go To Pinpoint Test A .​
B2267​	2267​	DATC Only​	RH blend door failure or short​	Go To Pinpoint Test A .​
B1251​	1251​	N/A​	A/C in-vehicle temperature sensor open circuit​	Go To Pinpoint Test B .​
B1253​	1253​	N/A​	A/C in-vehicle temperature sensor circuit short to ground​	Go To Pinpoint Test B .​
B1255​	1255​	N/A​	A/C ambient temperature sensor open circuit​	Go To Pinpoint Test C .​
B1257​	1257​	N/A​	A/C ambient temperature sensor circuit short to ground​	Go To Pinpoint Test C .​
B1259​	1259​	N/A​	A/C solar radiation sensor open circuit​	Go To Pinpoint Test D .​
B1261​	1261​	N/A​	A/C solar radiation sensor circuit short to ground​	Go To Pinpoint Test D .​
B2268​	2268​	N/A​	Steering wheel control switch open circuit​	Go To Pinpoint Test E .​
B2269​	2269​	N/A​	Steering wheel control switch circuit short to ground​	Go To Pinpoint Test E .​
B2477​	N/A​	N/A​	Module not configured​	Configure DATC module.​

 

[alex212]

I did this job myself. it's fairly easy if you're willing to do a little cutting.
www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2002-explorer-limited-dual-climate-issue.495359/#post-3909603

Thanks for the tip but these days my back limits me on what I can do. I don't mind paying my local shop to do it as long as it's reasonable. I just like having the facts straight before I have them tell me what they think the problem is.

 

[J_C]

There's more information but trying to attach it all to forum posts would be difficult. If you care to, you can get the 2000-2004 Ford Service Manual DVD ISO at the link below, install it and look over the info, or this might be handy to have in the future as well. This is the same 2000-2004 on the site linked in my sig as "more explorer wiring & manuals":

File on MEGA

mega.nz

I just mounted it with Daemon Tools (optical drive emulator for ISO files) then installed, no need to burn a DVD. Plus once it is installed, it installs just the application itself, still needs to read data off the DVD so you can just mount it again with Daemon Tools and not have to deal with DVDs at all.

There are also ways around that too, to copy all the files to the installation folder then edit the tsobrowser.ini file to point to that path.

 

[Explored4]

Hi folks, It's been a while since I've been on these forums, hope all of you are well. A few years back I decided to keep my 03 4x4 limited V8 and glad I did. I just couldn't sell it, for lot's of reasons. Great SUV but not without it's share of problems. Before I get to my question, I'll just add that I' bought my Explorer new in 03 and in the last year I replaced the entire suspension / hubs / tie rod ends /bushings / drive shafts /serviced everything, knowing that I plan on keeping her for a long while. Still runs and drives great with 145K miles.

That aside, I believe I have a blend door actuator issue. I can hear some clicking, I get no AC on the drivers side, passenger side and rear is good, filter is clean and I have the automatic climate control.

My question is, how many door actuators are there on my system? I think there are two but can't confirm. If I'm going to pay someone to take out the console / dash and replace the one I want to replace all and everything that could be a potential failure.

By the way I'm being quoted 7 hours to do the job by my local shop. I've used these guys before, no issues, and he showed me in his maintenance manual where it quotes 7 hrs. That said, I doubt it will take that long, but whatever. So since they will have it all apart, I want replace any potential failure items.

Thanks in Advance

Does it seem like there isn’t much air blowing thru the front vents too, mostly the drivers side? If so, I just went thru this on my ‘04. What happened was the flap door for the fresh air/recirculating door broke and fell on top of the screen above the blower motor right behind the glove box. There is a video on Youtube that shows how to cut the sides of the housing to flip open a panel big enough to get the door off the blower motor. I ended up just propping it up with a heavy duty straw lol

It works great now. For the Winter time, you’ll want to lower the door down more so cold air doesn’t come in all the time. It will take about 5 minutes to do that too.

 

[Mohsen Azari]

I can confirm that this is an easy repair. I'm an amateur compared to most of the guys on this forum and I was able to do it (only one door on my 2002). Also, I have back problems, too. The best tip I saw online is to get the really thin ratcheting wrenches that you can stick up inside the panel. There's just the one part to buy, and I paid about $50 from the Ford dealership. I know you can get it cheaper online, but I wanted to make sure that I got the right model. (There are a few different models, and they're not interchangeable.)

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I can confirm that this is an easy repair. I'm an amateur compared to most of the guys on this forum and I was able to do it (only one door on my 2002). Also, I have back problems, too. The best tip I saw online is to get the really thin ratcheting wrenches that you can stick up inside the panel. There's just the one part to buy, and I paid about $50 from the Ford dealership. I know you can get it cheaper online, but I wanted to make sure that I got the right model. (There are a few different models, and they're not interchangeable.)

welcome to EF!

 

[Mohsen Azari]

welcome to EF!

Thanks!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Thanks!

oh, whoops! i realized youve been here longer than i! just saw the post count!

 

[Mohsen Azari]

oh, whoops! i realized youve been here longer than i! just saw the post count!

Long time reader, but I don't post much.

 

[alex212]

Ok so it's fixed and it wasn't what I thought it was. I started having doubts when I ran the diagnostic test and everything seemed to work ok. At times I thought I was hearing a clicking sound but it was never as loud as what I heard in the videos. Last week I had the shop service the AC but it was not as cold as I thought it should be. Yea it was cool on the passenger side and in the back but not cold.

Then I remembered a post on one of the other blend door threads where someone thought he had a blend door problem but it turned out being the AC was not properly serviced. So I dropped it off this morning and asked them to service the AC again and make sure it has the correct amount of freon and oil (54oz and 13 oz) before doing anything else. Sure enough I got a call later today that it was fixed and ice cold across all the vents. He said that it wasn't properly serviced by their tech, so he charged me like $30 for the extra freon and oil and I was good to go. I checked it out and it's working as it should on both sides.

I really appreciate all the input from everyone and I hope this thread helps others.

You guys are great. Thanks much!