You guys give me WAY too much credit ...
By tricks I mean I think I figured out how to take the pressure off the lower bolt after I busted my ass (and knuckles) trying to get the spring down to go onto the lower Warrior Shackle ... ON the other side I used the jack under the diff much more and found taht the jack does a lot of work for you. I ain't no physics major you know! Anyhow for some odd reason I still think the right side was a lot harder.
One trick (or maybe obvious but not to me) is to loosen the TOP bolt before you remove the bolt from the bottom - otherwise you cannot get any torgue on the bolt b/c it (and the bushing) move with you?!? So don't do that -- loosen both --
Otherwise, go slowly, think, and read leebo's directions carefully -- don't just say F it I'm doin' this today, like me. One thing added to leebo's directions ... lowering and RAISING the differential will allow the bolt holes to line up and make removal AND INSTALLATION a whole lot easier -- I think that was my goof. My Sport now has a few pieces of my skin as proof of my goof.
As for the torsions twist -- done as well -- even took a shower before I wrote this! I did that quite quickly I thought and think I may have raised it a hair too much but will see after some more driving to settle those bars back down. I had a full tank of gas so the right side was lower than the left to begin with and I leveled it off, but left 1/4-3/8" lower on the right so it doesn't totally go the other way when I run lower on gas?!?
Question: If I did go to high will I just be able to do some (slow) hard turns and see if the CV joints buckle or grind or make any unsual noises too figure that out. The truck is level (maybe a hair higher in the front, but it is sitting head-in in the driveway that is not completely level for drainage) right now and I would like to keep it that way -- I may lower it about a few turns on each side later but in the interim -- can I just test for CV noises to make sure I am safe???
Thanks for any reply...