How to: 2nd Gen Blend Door Quick Fix

[Pontisteve]

I seriously doubt Ford fixed the problem. I think the newer trucks have similar issues as well. You are correct in your theory about over stressing the door, but it's a two-fold problem. The door hinge being made of plastic was a loser to begin with, and the motor quality seems low. Both could be bi-products of a door that was designed to rotate too far I suppose.

Instead of worrying about what clock position to set the heat and air to, I would just factor in that once in the life of the vehicle, both parts need to be changed out. If you're careful about how cleanly you cut the bottom of the box out, and silicone it back up nicely, I see no reason why it wouldn't be that much easier if it ever went out again. Just pop the siliconed panel loose, pop off the actuator, and replace.

 

[scarletgem]

Blend Door Permanent Fix

http://www.heatertreater.net/?gclid=CMjt-pCh8qsCFUKo4AodgwsjtQ

 

[bar422]

I have a 97 Explorer withe the cracked blend door problem. I have verified that the actuator is good (I had it plugged in with it apart and it moves just fine). What I want to know is if the door is closed you have heat and open is cold right? When it stopped working I had heat and since I messed around with it now I have cold and it is getting a little cool in my area now. Any help wpould be appreciated!

 

[Pontisteve]

The door routes air thru the heater core. If i remember correctly, pushing the door forward towards the radiator puts it in cold only mode.

 

[bar422]

I just cut the hole and pushed it closed and got heat then cold when I opened it........now I have to get a new door bought!

 

[Pontisteve]

I would like to know what shape the hole has to be cut, in order to fit the new door in. My understanding is that you largely cut out the triangle shape, leaving the door hinge depression alone. Then, pull out the blend door actuator, and the door should lift right out and come out thru the triangle-shaped hole you cut.

If it's at all possible, how about taking a picture of the door being held about half-way out of the triangle hole, so we can see the size of the door vs the hole you have to cut.

Also, if you could post up the new door's part number and price, and where you bought it.

 

[EvilleDave]

I ended up making two cuts. First I cut the red area then cut the yellow area leaving the back part attached. I folded down the hinge socket to get old door out and the new one in. I folded the hinge back up then hot glued around the hinge socket where I made the cut.. Did a test then closed it up using a plastic plate I made.

I got my kit off ebay.

EDIT: With the original cut in red there was not room enough to get the door out so I did the additional yellow cut.

 

[Pontisteve]

I don't want to have to cut the hinge point, and the instructions for that metal door kit doesn't say you have to. Is there enough room to do that some other way? Cutting more material elsewhere?

 

[EvilleDave]

I didn't want to either but there is no way to even get the old one out without the second cut. The opening just isn't big enough.

You don't have to bend it down far, just enough to get the door out of the socket.


With the metal kit they get around the flap cut by making a spring loaded hinge, no need to cut out the yellow area. With the metal door you have to cut out the old door to remove it.

I put a stock door in, I figured for the price difference and how easy it is to do I could put five doors in for the price of the metal one.

 

[Pontisteve]

How much was the door, and did you put in a Dorman or a Ford door? With the actuator removed, there isn't any way to stretch the box a tad to sneak the Ford door in?

Or could we convert the Ford door to a spring-loaded setup like the steel door? Maybe the steel door is the way to fly. I just hate to spend a C-note on something like that.

 

[EvilleDave]

I got the Doorman kit but only used the door. The actuator was removed. You could modify a stock door but it just wasn't worth the trouble for me. The whole deal only took me 25 mins to do and I don't get around very well.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-902-...es&vxp=mtr&hash=item20b7827fb4#ht_1278wt_1159

 

[rhemis]

I fixed the problem in 1 minute!
I used a Harbor Freight Vibrating saw

Cut the hole as shown at the beginning of this thread (although my Ford was slightly different), and pulled the blend door for heat.

The cut with this saw is so fine that I don't even need to use tape to seal it. Even if it leaks air, it still heats the interior.

I'll post a video as soon as I get around to it. The video will take longer to make than the repair did!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Those multi tools are very handy. I have the cordless Ridgid model from Home Depot with the interchangeable heads.

 

[Cal63]

Hey, Thanks for posting this. It took 10mins and we now have heat, Thanks you saved us a ton of money!!!

 

[FordTech2012]

My Heat Cuts in and out

i just recently replaced my heater control valve because it was leaking now my heat cut's in and out for a moment i have heat and the next moment i have no heat i live in Chicago IL i need heat when i wake up or getting out of work it cuts in and out when i accelerating. the coolant level is fine and the vacuum line connected in the right port

 

[Pontisteve]

Is it the heat that comes and goes, or is it actually the air coming out the vents? If the airflow goes from face vents to the default position (defrost and floor vents) during acceleration, its a sure sign the vacuum line going to the air conditioning has a leak.

The heater control valve could cut water flow to the heater core, but the effect of cutting heat would take place slowly. Not likely noticeable during quick acceleration.

If you have the broken blend door problem, the door could randomly move on its own and change temperature pretty quickly.

 

[95Limited4x4]

Warm Cabin......Overheated Customer. (after clicking the link wait a few seconds to load the pdf file.)

http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/otl0606.pdf

 

[EvilleDave]

i just recently replaced my heater control valve because it was leaking now my heat cut's in and out for a moment i have heat and the next moment i have no heat i live in Chicago IL i need heat when i wake up or getting out of work it cuts in and out when i accelerating. the coolant level is fine and the vacuum line connected in the right port

Check to make sure your fluid level if full. You may notice it goes in and out when you round a corner or go up or down an incline. If the fluid level is low it may cause this.

Edit: Just seen you checked the fluid level but you may have air. It could also be a cracked or leaking vacuum line cause it to do it when under load.

 

[Ranglorer]

I love simple fixes

Great info - Thanks man!

 

[CarMagic]

Blend Door 97 Mercury Mountaineer

Mountaineers/Explorers

You want to save money and time without cutting into the Heater Box(plenum)? Following these time-saving steps, which I discovered:

1. Remove the glove dept.
2. Remove the Actuator
3. Take a small mirror and verify if you have 1-2 inch Black plastic protruding from (side) the Actuator hole.
4. Take flathead screw driver and apply force to move it to the Right
5. You will have Heat or AC, if your Blend Door was either broke or stuck.

Let me know, if this does not help. I will help you save money, like over $1200 that it cost.