How to: Quick and Easy 2nd gen Blend Door Replacement Tutorial

[Rich Roebuck]

I did not have that problem but it does sound like vacuum leak. I googled problem using 98 Ford Explorer with the problem because that is a more popular vehicle than the Mountaineer. Here is link:

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp...86effb8dc737cd7&bpcl=37643589&biw=998&bih=563

One of these sites may have your answer and tell you how to proceed. One of them was on answers.com and does explain the probable problem and a way to trace it:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_dos_a...ir_into_cabin_vents_on_1998_frod_explorer_xlt

I'm not a mechanic, only mechanically inclined so I really can't help you beyone this. Good luck.

 

[Tnronin]

First Post! Thanks for the tutorial. O'Reilly wants $69.99 for these now. Ebay here I come!

 

[mbruffey]

Is the 2nd gen blend door for Dorman parts 902-221 and 902-202 just a different grade of the same part? I don't want to get the wrong thing for my 97 with EATC. The "902-221" looks like it has some kind of reinforcement at the top end of the shaft.

Or, does anyone know the Motorcraft part number?

I don't want to yank that half-broken door out and carry it to the parts store in case there's no immediate match. It's tooooooo cold here!

Thx!

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?q=inmeta:year%3D1997+inmeta:make%3DFORD%2520TRUCK+inmeta:model%3DEXPLORER+inmeta:engine%3DV8%2520%252D%25205%252E0L%2520%2528302%2520CID%2529%253A%2520GAS%253A%2520FI%253A%2520N%253A%2520P+inmetaarttype%3DHVAC%2520Heater%2520Blend%2520Door&dnavs=inmeta:year%3D1997+inmeta:make%3DFORD%2520TRUCK+inmeta:model%3DEXPLORER+inmeta:engine%3DV8%2520%252D%25205%252E0L%2520%2528302%2520CID%2529%253A%2520GAS%253A%2520FI%253A%2520N%253A%2520P+inmetaarttype%3DHVAC%2520Heater%2520Blend%2520Door&type=parttype

 

[Rich Roebuck]

The kit I got from NAPA, part #660-1810, was around $16 and the blend door was an exact replacement. They ordered it for me and it arrived within a few days. My vehicle is a 98 Mountaineer 5.0 V8. As I said in a former post the kit includes other parts with instructions that make the job harder than it is imho. See my original post thread 86 and all you will need from the kit is the new door. Can't help you with the Dorman, not familiar with it.

 

[mbruffey]

Thanks Rich! BTW, look at the first pic on post 74. Why not go ahead and cut a little less than 1/2 of that bottom pivot socket all the way out with the rest of the panel? Use a thin tool like a utility knife at that point of course. Then snap out the old shaft and snap in the new. After that, put the "cover" back on and hose-clamp (or black-tape wrap) that pivot point from the outside, along with whatever else you think you need to do to make the panel stay put. M

 

[Rich Roebuck]

Before you cut it further see if the door will come out. You can't uncut something. That panel is pretty flexible and pretty tough. After you get the new door in position it folds back easily. I used some electrical tape in one small spot to hold it in position and then patched it up with J-B Weld Kwik Plastic from Home Depot. It binds to plastic and you tack it over the crack like putty and smooth it with a wet finger. Makes a nice neat job. After it dried I covered it with black duct tape. Good luck!

 

[Fixits]

Magicland,

Have this problem with my 98 EB. Looks like a great solution but the pictures are not there. Any way I can get them?
Thanks,
Hank

 

[Rich Roebuck]

Hank, Check out DaExplorer's thread 73 and my tutorial on thread 86. That should get you thru it. Richard

 

[Fixits]

Many thanks for the reply Richard, and to DaExplorer for the amazing pics!

My next Ford delight project is my 2000 F350 V10 that litteraly spits spark plugs out!

 

[PFA]

Just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU!! This thread with pictures and instructions went a long way. Did the job over the weekend.

 

[Rich Roebuck]

Glad to hear things worked out. Isn't the Internet wonderful??? Richard

 

[simba247]

Are the photos still linked to the original posting by magicland or is my browser blocking them ?

 

[DaExplorer]

No not your bowser. Something happened to him and they are gone now. Good write up. Look at #73 of this thread. I did some photos and a little writing.

 

[simba247]

Thanks, found the photos at #73, very useful. I live in the UK, are you aware of any supplier that will ship the heater blend door to the UK ? NAPA say they won't do it. I think I need the equivalent of the NAPA part number #6601810.

 

[DaExplorer]

Not sure on your side of the Pond where to get one or who will ship.
You may want to try Rock Auto, They have a spot near the top to show price in different countrys.

I have attached their link to the kit, there part # 902-202

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1119675,parttype,16167


What part of the UK you in? Have a friend in the Burry area of Manchester. She said it has been real cold lately.

 

[rumblingrambler]

Thanks to all you guys for the information. My 1997 Ranger now has functioning H&A again ;>) Yes, it was a pain in the BACK to get to the door, especially on a hot day. I decided to try a box cutter first "just to see if it would work." A little grunting and all the cuts were made--less all the dust the rotary would have made. I was hesitant to try this fix but it sure beat removing the entire dashboard!

 

[carpfisher]

Dang!!! "Flap" broke off

Dang! The flap broke off while trying to bend it down to remove the old door. I am know scrambling on a repair techniques. I obtained some Devcon Plastic Epoxy and have made a test batch to see it if will stick to the plastic. My plan is to make a thickened mix ox epoxy and use it like caulk to put it back together. Any body got a betterr idea?

Edit: Test batch failed. A little more research reveals that "...modern science has yet to develop a solvent glue that works on olefin plastics."

Now I'm really struggling.

Edit: Got everything in place and drive a fine thread drywall screw in right under the pivot cup to hold at the correct height to allow door to pivit freely. duct tape to colse cuts up for know until I know it all works OK after an extended ride. Then Illl RTV or heat weld them closed. My concern about the comments above and in threads above about glues/sealants holding on the Polyethelene plastic. Time will tell, I guess.

 

[rumblingrambler]

DUCT TAPE! Worked for me... still holding a year later!

(....make that GOOD quality duct tape. ;>)

 

[Pontisteve]

I need to do this on a 98 Explorer Limited with EATC (automatic temperature controls).

Can anyone confirm the part number necessary for EATC? All the listings seem to say they are for manual AC.

Someone else said the Napa 660-1810 worked perfectly. The picture of it looks just like the Dorman 902-202. There is also a Dorman 902-221 available, and I can't figure out the differences. Anyone who has EATC and bought a blend door that fit perfectly, please post up what part# you used.

 

[rumblingrambler]

Not advertising for these guys (but they are great)

http://www.rockauto.com/

...shows Dorman 902221 works for all 1998 Explorers

...hope this helps