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How to get better Gas Mileage?




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Did I mention drive slower?
 






I just took a 2800 mile trip after a 4400 mile earlier trip to Oregon Coast. I drove the ExSport from Denver-Amarillo-Austin-San Antonio-Houston and then back to Denver. The 2800 mile trip Gas Mileage was 19.2 miles per gallon. I have to admit that all the way and back I had the cruise control set to 85 miles per hour. Normally in city driving conditions also I get about 19 miles per G. Yes, I do accelerate from 0 - 60 miles in about 8 seconds. Do you think I am getting correct mileage based on the above driving behavior or should it still give me better mileage? Is there any programming updated which needs to happen on my vehicle?
 






While doing a quick start like that won't help your mileage, the thing responsible for most of the low mileage is your speed. Dropping from 85 to say 70, should see a gain of roughly 10 - 11%. I think you're getting about as much as currently possible according to your style.

http://www.mpgforspeed.com/

Peter
 






You're right around what I'm getting Sunny. I cruise around 79 and get right around 19.5 on trips. Honestly, I do better on back roads (55 or 65 speed limit) because they slow me down. I also like to punch it to get going so I think we're in the same boat.

Once we get some warm weather here I'm going to try switching to premium and see if there's a difference. I doubt there will be enough to offset the price, but we'll see.

Some of the tunes boast up to 3mpg improvement. Would be interesting to see, but I'd be surprised if you got a full 3 improvement.
 






Keep in mind that switching to premium when the weather warms up may not give you a definitive answer as to whether the premium makes much of a difference. Just the warmer weather will boost mileage a bit over colder temps.

Peter
 






Peter,

You're definitely right. I'm planning to run on regular long enough to get a good benchmark (2 or 3 tanks at least), then switch to premium.

Does anyone know if there's a way to reset the ECM (to re-calibrate the engine for higher octane) other than pulling the battery leads? Or should I just run 3 or 4 tanks through before I start tracking?

Thanks.
 






I believe someone posted that it will self adjust after a couple of tanks. I don't really know enough about that to accurately comment, but it sounds logical.

Peter
 






Run it full throttle a couple of times...
Going from experience on my mustang the comp will advance timing until knock is detected and then back off.
 












FYI, I didn't notice any significant difference between regular and premium regarding mileage. I ran premium for a few months to see if there was a difference. My overall average for regular and premium is a touch over 20mpg.

Performance wise I would say the premium was probably better, but I don't remember as it's been many months since running anything other than regular.
 






FYI, I didn't notice any significant difference between regular and premium regarding mileage. I ran premium for a few months to see if there was a difference. My overall average for regular and premium is a touch over 20mpg.

Performance wise I would say the premium was probably better, but I don't remember as it's been many months since running anything other than regular.

I wouldn't expect you to see a fuel economy difference between octane ratings. There's essentially no difference in the amount of energy in a gallon of 87 or a gallon of 93. The higher octane is less likely to pre-detonate (ping), and so the car adjusts to get more performance, but this is only noticeable under conditions that are already fuel consuming.

If you drove your Sport at Wide open throttle with 87 and then ran it at WOT with 93, you might go a few miles further with the 93. You will also probably get a free ride to jail before you can fill up with the 93 ;)
 






I wouldn't expect you to see a fuel economy difference between octane ratings. There's essentially no difference in the amount of energy in a gallon of 87 or a gallon of 93. The higher octane is less likely to pre-detonate (ping), and so the car adjusts to get more performance, but this is only noticeable under conditions that are already fuel consuming.

If you drove your Sport at Wide open throttle with 87 and then ran it at WOT with 93, you might go a few miles further with the 93. You will also probably get a free ride to jail before you can fill up with the 93 ;)

I completely understand. Some people believe you will get better mileage with the higher octane which will offset the cost increase. I haven’t seen that to be true.

On the other hand, I have a theory for why the 93 “could” increase mileage. With the higher octane, assuming engine increases ignition timing across the board(vs. 87), could the engine be more efficient with the fuel burn? Could you run at a lower throttle input, thus less air and less fuel, and get the same power? Again, just a thought and am I way off base or is that possible?
 






Have I overlooked here? Aren't there plug-in computer re-programmers???

A friend back in the 90's down in FL got his Mitsubishi Eclipse "chipped" and some other stuff. It was noticably fast as ...... He'd roast tires into fifth.

However, since then, I've seen where you can buy a plug in computer "re-programmer" for more economical than more performance.

Have I overlooked anyone mentioning anything about these and is the cost worth it? Do they really get much better mpg???
 






I run 91 Octane here in colorado and have seen no milage difference compared to running 87 Octane.
 






To be clear. You will get your best mpg when the transmission has shifted into top (6th) gear because the engine is turning over fewer revolutions per mile traveled. So manually forcing an early upshift with the paddles will improve your mpg at that particular speed. Especially so with a computer-controlled modern engine. Any efficiencies you might get by being in some lower gear at higher rpms will not offset the extra number of revs that the engine must now make per mile.

There are exceptions of course, such as early hybrids which got better mpg around the city than on the highway, but I confine this post to non-hybrids like our Explorers.

It's more complex than that of course, because of increased air resistance at the now higher speeds in top gear, and other factors come into play as well.

With an older engine you had to go farther past the point at which the last upshift (in top gear) occurred, because you needed the extra rpm to get the combustion efficiency up. (Older engines needed a higher velocity, and therefore higher rpms, of air flow through the venturi to get a more complete mixing of fuel and air).

When you shift early, say with a manual transmission for example, you can lug the engine, which stresses the engine, and increases emissions, but you will get better fuel mpg in spite of that. You needn't worry about that happening with our engines, for the most part, because the transmission will not allow a shift so early that it would cause engine damage. The number of the gear it wants to stay in will flash on the display and it will refuse to shift if it thinks the rpms are too low for it.

-B.;)

Sorry to be a pain, but I have to dispel this myth.
Yes when you have higher rpms theres more air flowing through the carburetor pulling in more fuel... but that is on an engine with a carb and our fuel injected engines do not have that.

There is no relation to rpm and fuel that is injected, fuel is NOT injected for every turn of the crankshaft it is pulse width modulated, meaning fuel is injected the same number of times every second regardless of anything you do, what changes isnt how often it's injected but how long it holds the injector open (pulse width). Engine rotation is not a factor of fuel economy, it is only load and throttle input. load could possibly be increased a minuscule amount at higher rpms, but this is not a big factor, what IS a big factor is efficiency. (now someone correct me if on the new direct injected explorers this isn't the case, but I find this highly unlikely, but if so then everything im saying may be incorrect)

The way you can tell how efficient what gear youre in is, is by how much throttle you give it. Now you may be able to put it in sixth at say 30 mph, but if you need to give it half throttle to make it go that fast you are using WAY more fuel then if you dropped down a few gears and only gave it say a quarter or eighth throttle.

As always pay attention to how far down your right foot is to tell how much gas you're using.
 






On octane rating -

Octane rating is a measure of how slowly a fuel burns. That's right, it has nothing to do with how much energy is in the fuel, how fancy the fuel is, it just means it burns slower. Now this is a good thing on performance engines where if the fuel burns slower you can advance ignition timing and probably get more power out of the slower burn... But if the manual recommends 87 octane gas and you put in 91 you are doing nothing to help the engine, in fact you may be hurting it since the slower burn MAY be less efficient for your engine.

The only time you'd see better fuel economy with higher octane is if it had too low of octane in it to begin with. If the engine is detonating (due to low octane gas) the computer senses it and retards the ignition timing to prevent engine damage, thus lowering efficiency. If you put in higher octane and it fixes the detonating then your computer will go back to the standard more efficient timing which may increase gas mileage.

Follow owners manual recommendations always for octane rating.
 






The Owner's Guide recommends 87 octane for the N.A. 3.5L engine and also for the 2.0 and 3.5L Ecoboost with a provision that using premium gasoline in the Ecoboost will provide better performance. Premium is also recommended for 'severe duty usage', such as trailer towing. In all the literature showing the HP and torque figures it says in small print that they were achieved using premium gasoline.
I think it is important to note that they say premium will improve performance which doesn't necessarily mean improved gas mileage.

Peter
 






Sorry to be a pain, but I have to dispel this myth.
Yes when you have higher rpms theres more air flowing through the carburetor pulling in more fuel... but that is on an engine with a carb and our fuel injected engines do not have that.

There is no relation to rpm and fuel that is injected, fuel is NOT injected for every turn of the crankshaft it is pulse width modulated, meaning fuel is injected the same number of times every second regardless of anything you do, what changes isnt how often it's injected but how long it holds the injector open (pulse width). Engine rotation is not a factor of fuel economy, it is only load and throttle input. load could possibly be increased a minuscule amount at higher rpms, but this is not a big factor, what IS a big factor is efficiency. (now someone correct me if on the new direct injected explorers this isn't the case, but I find this highly unlikely, but if so then everything im saying may be incorrect)

The way you can tell how efficient what gear youre in is, is by how much throttle you give it. Now you may be able to put it in sixth at say 30 mph, but if you need to give it half throttle to make it go that fast you are using WAY more fuel then if you dropped down a few gears and only gave it say a quarter or eighth throttle.

As always pay attention to how far down your right foot is to tell how much gas you're using.

Kiliona you misread my post regarding carburettors. You misquoted me in your response, please reread to see what I actually said.

Hope I can fill some gaps in your understanding, then you might be better prepared to dispel, instead of create, some myths, since that is what you are apparently aspiring to do in your posts.

Fuel is NOT “injected the same number of times every second regardless of anything you do”, as you wrote. While very imaginative, it's incongruent with the science of the workings of a Direct Injection engine.

The fuel is injected when the computer commands it to, which, depending on load and throttle position, and hundreds or thousands of other parameters, can be at various points during the compression, or intake strokes. It is also capable of delivering multiple pulses of fuel during an individual stroke. The control is extremely tight, measured in milliseconds. This will as a result directly vary the rpm to suit the conditions called for.

Not only is the pulse width of the fuel modulated, and its timing during the cycle, but the fuel pressure is tightly controlled as well, by more than an order of magnitude.

You also wrote “Engine rotation is not a factor of fuel economy, it is only load and throttle input”.

Once you are up to your cruising speed, if you are not in top gear (as I pointed out, the transmission will not allow you to lug the engine) then your engine is rotating more turns per mile than it needs to, as measured not only in revolutions per MINUTE on your tach, but more importantly to fuel mileage, revolutions per MILE. The drive ratios are carefully chosen to optimise fuel mileage. That is one of the main purposes of the top gearing in the transmission, to allow the engine to make fewer rotations per distance travelled and burn less fuel, if it were not so, why would they exist?

Also note that, under normal conditions, if you shift into a higher gear, and want to maintain the same speed, (if any throttle change is needed at all) it will require that you decrease your throttle, not increase it. If you maintained the same rpm and accelerator pressure, with an upshift you are now in a higher gear with the engine turning over fewer times to make the drive wheels turn at the same speed. Slightly lifting your foot from the accelerator at the right time can in fact cause an upshift, with no increase in speed. Most drivers do this subconsciously without even thinking about it, it's so seamless.
 



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Yeah, octane and energy content of fuel are two different and distinct parameters, like your height, and your weight. Higher octane does not equal higher energy content. In fact, if ethanol were used to boost the octane in the fuel (ethanol has a lower energy content, but a higher octane rating than gasoline, and is often used as an octane booster additive in high-octane fuel) the energy content of the higher octane fuel might well be lower.

The high octane fuel, burning more slowly efficiently PUSHES the piston down the bore, while lower octane fuel, which burns faster and more explosively, instead HITS the piston down the bore, which is more wasteful of energy.

Higher compression engines are inherently more efficient, they are able to extract more of the energy content from fuel. One thing that makes diesel engines more efficient if that they are higher-compression. Every manufacturer would like to get their engines to as high a compression ratio as possible for this reason.

But they can't. Because the octane rating of the available fuel is one of the factors that limits how high the compression ratio can go. Any higher and the engine destroys itself. The engines are tuned to maximize the highest octane fuel that's available. Several manufacturers (Mazda is another) are diverting a lot of resources toward finding solutions (there are some, including Ford's) to this problem.

A higher compression ratio, in addition to being more efficient with fuel, also gives improved performance most noticeably when used with high octane fuel. High octane fuel will give you better efficiency as measured in miles per gallon as well, but it will not be enough to offset its added cost, so it is not used as, or promoted as an economical choice. Believe it, if there were economical advantages to it, it would be promoted that way in the literature by the sales and marketing experts, but it isn't.
 






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