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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
yes. you need a line convertor to convert your rear speaker lines to RCA, then tap into your remote line for your factory amp to switch your sub amp, run your power and ground and RCAs and you are set. teh adapter should cost <20, and an amp kit wil be 30-100 depending on what and where you get it. might i recommend walmart for both.
there is only one way that i would truly recommend for someone who wanted to make it sound excellent-
i would recommend running an audiocontrol epic160. it has line level inputs and will bump your line level signal right up to the kind of high volt levels your high quality aftermarket amps deserve. on top of that it does truly amazing things with its bass restoration circuit (you'd be able to make celine dion quake if you wanted-and cleanly) as well as includes a spl and volt meter. it is my favorite component of my personal stereo by far! and it fits your needs. the only drawback is even at my price it still costs more than most aftermarket hu's
Originally posted by expo5.0 yes- there are quite a few ways
there is only one way that i would truly recommend for someone who wanted to make it sound excellent-
i would recommend running an audiocontrol epic160. it has line level inputs and will bump your line level signal right up to the kind of high volt levels your high quality aftermarket amps deserve. on top of that it does truly amazing things with its bass restoration circuit (you'd be able to make celine dion quake if you wanted-and cleanly) as well as includes a spl and volt meter. it is my favorite component of my personal stereo by far! and it fits your needs. the only drawback is even at my price it still costs more than most aftermarket hu's
oh- and don't buy an amp kit from walmart- the wires are ok and the rca's are questionably acceptable, but the fuse holders and fuses are a problem in the making. check out mobilspec.com for some better stuff.
ok i was just very very curious at what it would take to get RCA's since i have a stock headunit.. i want a little bump in the truck for a mininum cost.
i'd want clarity and sound quality, but at this point in time i have to go cheaper with what i buy. I assume that even though the RCA voltage would be lower coming froma line converter, it would have an effect on the amps output like you said, however i would think that the effects of the slight voltage loss would have little effect on say like a 300-500 watt system?
it wouldn't be anything that great...i'm thinking, of an 8 or a 10, nothing bigger
thanks!
Originally posted by expo5.0 oh- and don't buy an amp kit from walmart- the wires are ok and the rca's are questionably acceptable, but the fuse holders and fuses are a problem in the making. check out mobilspec.com for some better stuff.
for mediaocre systems, walmart is fine...since u r running a stock HU, i doubt its anything requiring grade A wires. if i were 1000w+, then yeah but for under 1000w and not entering any competitions, walmart is fine.
in your situation i recommend just buying an amp that has a line level converter built in-
i installed a 342 mtx amp in my brothers escape in such a manner with great results powering an he2 12 in a 2.0 cubic foot sealed box off the stock premium system hu. he runs focal access line components off of the stock amps too with awesome results. That is definitely the cheapest way to go and it will work more than acceptably- avoid using a walmart loc if you can (the one in the amp you buy will work better)
that said the sound quality difference between the line level conveted signal no matter what loc you use and a good 4 or 5 volt preout signal (more from the audiocontrol) is huge. i have personally gone from 2-4-8+ volts with the same amps and components and i've been amazed with each progressive step
Originally posted by expo5.0 in your situation i recommend just buying an amp that has a line level converter built in-
i installed a 342 mtx amp in my brothers escape in such a manner with great results powering an he2 12 in a 2.0 cubic foot sealed box off the stock premium system hu. he runs focal access line components off of the stock amps too with awesome results. That is definitely the cheapest way to go and it will work more than acceptably- avoid using a walmart loc if you can (the one in the amp you buy will work better)
this is true. such an obvious solution, i cant believe i didnt think about it./..every amp i have had had the line inputs built in, i just never had to use them since i always run aftermarket HUs.
I have a 98 XLT with the stock HU (CD/TAPE/DISC Changer) and I want to add some thump...I was looking at the subwoofer that goes in the passenger rear wheel well storage area thingy....I think it is MTX, but qlogic makes one....circuit city sells them....
you will have to run a power, ground, and a set of speaker wires from the HU
the built in amp will have speaker level inputs. for ground, any place on the frame in back will do; i use a bolt by one of the windows. the power will have to go to the batt, and dont forget to fuse it. it wont need a remote turn on because its automatically switched.
I dont know if I'm too late to help or not. I have done exactly what you are trying to do in my 97 X without mach audio. I had an amp already from my previous vehicle which had a aftermarket head unit and was hooked up with rca's. Fortunately the 200 watt pioneer amp i had also had line level inputs on it. Instead of buying the converter(Ive heard those can be crap....well the ones in my price range anyways) I flipped the back seat down and found the bundle of wires that head back to go to the amp and all the crap in the back. I proceded to wire my amp up by running exterior grade 8 guage wire from my battery and a switched source to the back and then probed the wires under the seat with a 12v test light to see which were on when the radio was. After i found the right wires connected them to the line level input on the amp with some normal everyday wire (Some 12ga. spare trailer light wiring i had from a replacement i did... i know i can hear you already) . didnt have to even look at the stock amp and i have a seperate switch on the dash so i can deactivate the amp for when my parents borrow it as well as going on and off with the key. For a fuse you can use just a inline fuse holder. Mine cost me 98 cents at the local gas station and im running a 30 amp buss fuse.
Overall it sounds great with (Walmart Clearance)
5x7 Pioneer 2ways in all the doors $25 bucks a pair
200 Watt Pioneer Amp dsx-698? $30 bucks
10 inch bandpass subwoofer ($25 bucks normally $90)
20 or so feet of 8 guage external wire that i had laying around ~ 10 bucks
Recycled trailer wiring (free)
Standard grade extension cord with ends cut off for subwoofer speaker wire ~free
Who says you cant have a pretty good system for a great price. It may not be the most earth shattering system but it isnt meant to be. But i can turn the stock head unit all the way up with no distortion. no interference noises. and it cost me 110 dollars and a couple hours of time. who can beat that.....