How to Install a Tekonsha P3: 2000 Explorer

[roverz]

Had to install a 4pin to 7pin conversion kit this weekend on my explorer to pull a new coleman Bayside pop trailer that the family just purchased. The RV store and dealership wanted $300 for labor to do this work which I immediately balked at. It was a little more time consuming then I had originally expected it to be but what project isn't.

Materials:
20feet Green 10 Gauge Wire
20feet Red 10 Gauge Wire
4pin to 7pin conversion harness http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow%20Ready/30717.html
Prodigy P3 http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90195-Electronic-Brake-Control/dp/B000P17NXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1283199607&sr=8-1
10-14 Gauge Wire butt connectors x 10
10-14 Gauge Wire Ring connectors x 10
20 amp fuse
30 amp fuse

I started the project by pulling back the driver side carpet up against the firewall and locating a grommet passthru that the stereo shop had previously used. I decided that i could use the + Lead from the batter and attach it to the 20 amp fuse right there on the firewall and then run the positive leads to the Prodigy p3 and to a Black and Decker inverter that i have mounted in the glove box (previous project that didn't have a fuse or breaker)

Next I located the brake pedal 5 pin harness and tested the leads while plugged in to locate the 0 resistance pin (while brake is not in use) - I located the 2nd lead from the left (Red) and the 4th from the left (Green)

I decided the larger gauge Green was the most appropriate tie in. I added a butt connector here and had the lead from the P3 connected into this wire.

Now it was wire making time. I ran a hot lead with fuse from the alternator Red wire, and attached the Green wire to the Blue lead on the P3 unit (electic brake signal wire). I pulled both wires by the brake master cylinder and out the driver side fender area to wrap them together.

Now the fun part of running the wire under the truck inside the driver side frame rail and against the body.

The wrapped pair of wires was run down along the frame rail inside of the rail and against the body where ever possible, made a little easier as i have a 3" BL.

Here is one of the first self taping, washer and hanger's that i put in near fuel filter.

This was fine until i slipped on the drill and put the self tapping screw into my middle finger.

Newt was down by the drivers / passenger door and was not inside the frame rail as much as i would like but i was lazy after drilling into my finger.

This was fine until i slipped on the drill and put the self tapping screw into my middle finger.

After having the wife tape up my finger and getting a beer i finished off with drilling out the rear bumper with a 2 1/4 circular drill bit in the bumper like a lot of others have done.

Then i pulled the old 4 pin connector and new Batter lead (Red) and Brake controller lead (Green) and taped them all together leaving the ground and Aux (Purple) out for later connections.

Ended up looking really clean I will add some additional pictures of the unit and the 7 pin connector later this week.

Unit installed picture.

 

[roverz]

Reserved for more pictures.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Please finish this, I'll nominate you for some elite time for your efforts.

 

[thebrakeman]

Nice writeup. I did this on our minivan to tow our popup for the last 2 years (just bought the Mounty). For others considering this job, etrailer.com also has another similar kit that includes all of the wiring and connectors you need in 1 kit. This kit (which I used) comes with a combination socket at the rear that has both 7-pin Bargman and 4-pin flat connectors.

I'm no electrician, but the instructions for installing the self-resetting fuses (for 12V aux line or brakes) will always advise locating them as close to the battery as possible. You also want these to be dedicated fuses. You don't want your brakes cutting out during an emergency stop because the wife is curling her hair or charging the laptop. (haha).

The work at the bumper looks nice. Look forward to more pics. Hope the finger heals!

 

[roverz]

Brakeman, Very good observation I will have to fix that before I take the wife and kids out for the maiden trip next weekend, thanks for your insight i will edit write up after i get that fixed and new pictures taken.

 

[roverz]

ok the Rig did an ok job pulling our new coleman pop trailer this weekend but the engine and tranny did run a little hot even after all my love and care.... and i am light on the throttle at least a lot lighter then i was in my young years..

Any suggestions?

Should i add a additional or replace the stock tranny cooler with an after market or larger unit? ( i have read that a Dodge ram fully size has a good unit?)

The good thing is that my brake controller worked wonderfully fur us .... finally

Family had a lot of fun and my two sons really enjoyed it along with my beautiful
wife.

Gotta love how the running boards are bent on both sides

Anybody got running boards and gold paint for sale?

 

[BradR]

Whoa, you're not riding spaceship from the trailer are you? please tell me you have saggy springs. You need to watch the weight distribution.

That is a good looking trailer, and she looks good too... oh and you're wife looks like a catch too

 

[thebrakeman]

Easy there, fella! haha

Yeah, I wonder if your lift kit is actually rated for lower TW than stock. You must have a lot of oncoming traffic flipping you the bird at night!

I highly recommend a WDH kit. If under 350 lbs TW, try the Reese/Drawtite mini-350, which includes integrated sway control. If TW creeps over 350 (like mine), I use the Reese/Drawtite 400 Single Bar, plus an add-on friction sway controller.

These will get you back to level, and more importantly, put weight back onto the front wheels. All of that lost weight in front could get you in trouble if you needed to make an emergency lane change (lost traction), and will also affect braking ability.

 

[roverz]

Brakeman, can u send a picture of how the mini-400 attaches i was looking at it on etrailer.com but can't get a good sense of how it attaches / works.

Also what do you think about the tranny temp that I had while climbing a pretty step grade it approached low 180's.

I had planned to add electric cooling fans as i already have all the parts but wonder if i should add a larger tranny cooler now also?

 

[thebrakeman]

I see if I can get a picture of the WDH. The lifter mechanism (with the long handle) mounts across the A-frame, right in front of the the LP tanks, and behind the battery. In your pic, it would go in the same location and orientation as your little red bike (haha). There is then a single spring bar that extends from the hitch head straight back under the battery. This has a chain that you attach to the lifter mechanism. Swing the lever closed, and it lifts the chain/bar into the engaged position.

You can download the instructions from etrailer.com. IIRC, you need to position the lifter mechanism between 18-26" behind the ball/coupler. I had the space for it, but I had to re-orient my battery in order to have room to install the safety pin (which prevents the arm from opening in transit). Not a big deal.

With respect to transmission temps, not my strong suit. But check out some trans fluid bottles at auto parts stores. They probably say what is a safe operating temp. See if the synthetics advertise a higher temp range.