how to remove rotors

[swimfan6989]

So i need to change my rotors on my x, i was looking at them for a sec, how do they come off to replace? sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

[corkey]

you have to remover the calipers first , there are bolts that hold them on,

 

[rileyrs]

best first gen brake thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696

 

[rhauf]

So i need to change my rotors on my x, i was looking at them for a sec, how do they come off to replace? sorry if this is a stupid question.

Yes they come off. yes it is an easy job. i would also change the wheel bearings while you're at it. you're parts store list should look something like this:

2 new rotors
4 new wheel bearings (2 per side, all 4 are identical)
2 new seals.
wheel bearing grease
new brake pads (get good ones you get what you pay for with pads)

removal sequence is like this (assuming yours is 4x4 with stock auto hubs)
1: jack up car
2: remove tire
3: remove brake caliper and pads (remove retaining bolt, knock out clip/pin thingies, pull caliper off)
4: remove hub (it usually just pulls off, unless somebody added the clips on the studs that hold it on, which is unlikely)
5: remove C clip from axle shaft (4x4 only)
6: remove the plastic cam-thing which actuates the auto hubs (you may have to take the springs off of it to get it back on, don't loose the little pieces)
7: use a magnet to pull out the locking pin (top center, it keeps the wheel bearing nut from getting loose) you may have to turn the lock nut slightly one way or the other to get the pin out.
8: remove locking nut.
9: pull off rotor.

hopefully you're new rotors will come with the races installed, if they don't just ask and we'll tell you how to install them too. also, if yours is a 2 wheel drive, it's mostly the same except some of those parts wont be there (the plastic hub locking cam ringie thing for instance) if it has manual locking hubs there is no lock-pin, instead it has two nuts with a washer thingie between them, removal of it is self-explanatory


edit: damn as soon as i sent that somebody sent a link to a thread explaining it way better and with pictures, hah.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

The above statement about all 4 bearings might or might not be true. If you have a two wheel drive vehicle it isn't true, if you have a 4x4 they might be but I'm not positive.

I know for 100% certainty, because I have a 2x4 vehicle, the inner bearings are larger then the outer bearings in the rotor. But if you get your parts from a good parts dealer they'll be able to tell you waht you need. But you might not even need bearings to be honest, just check them for wear and "blueing", if they look okay repack them with grease and you're good to go.

 

[rhauf]

in my '93 4x4 the inner and outer wheel bearings are the same, i just changed them a couple weeks ago (along with the badly warped rotors, brake pads etc)

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Okay, so on 4x4 inner and outer are the same, on 2x4 they're different. Learn something new everyday!

 

[geoph1986]

Okay, so on 4x4 inner and outer are the same, on 2x4 they're different. Learn something new everyday!

Not all 4x4 X's use the same inner and outer bearing, as I found out when I had to replace my spindles. There are some (I don't know model years) that use a stepped spindle, which means different inner and outer bearings. I would say 99% of the 4x4 X's use the same inner and outer. Hope this helps.

 

[Currency]

My inner and outer bearings are the same.

Also when I replaced my rotors the magnet trick would not work. I used a simple pick to pull the lock out with. Once I had it all back together minus the drivers side because oddly enough I did not have enough room to put the c clip back on... So I had to remove it all several times while tightening the retaining nut and on those times the magnet trick did work.

I went from not knowing how to do it to almost a pro in one day.

A tip from an 'almost' pro :

Once your done and put your tires back on, Push on them from side to side and top to bottom to check for any play in the wheel.

This would mean you did not get the retaining nut on tight enough and you have play in the wheel from the rotor on out. <<<< That's bad but happened to me and I was in no mood to check it afterwords so please listen to me and check it once your done.

 

[rhauf]

Another recommendation, is after 100 miles or so (once the bearings are broken in) re adjust the lock nut. i found it was a little loose after a few days of driving, and i tightened them down slightly more.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Before I take a hammer to this thing, why in the world will this stupid little retainer not come out - magnet - HAHAHAHAHA!

Went and bought a new set of picks - broke every one.

Gimmie a freaking break! How do I get his sumbi$ch out?

 

[natenkiki2004]

The nut might be binding the retainer, try to tighten/loosen it. It should come out with a powerful enough magnet.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

used a 3ft breaker bar trying to move it a little each way - NOTHING.

But I did manage to smash my fingers a couple of really good times...busted my elbow into the fender well and possibly had a stroke it pissed me off so bad...

ha!

After I cool down, I'll go back and tackle it after dinner again.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Ok, I quit...if I didn't I was going to start smashing it all with a hammer.

Went around to driver side and thought, "surely, both sides can't be stuck"...oh well...

Good news, I now have no 4x4 now because I can't get the inner hub assembly on until I get a deep socket 36mm to knock it back on...

Good news, less pieces to take off when I decide to tackle it again.

Thinking I'll just grind that nut off above the "badword" retainer piece and then slide it out and just buy another nut since I'm already into $110 and no new rotors yet (shoot, my local shop wanted $350 - thinking of paying it but surely a stupid piece like that cannot beat me).

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

So, how bad is it that I took a screwdriver and hit that piece with a hammer thinking I would slide it in a little and maybe it would unstick and then I could slide it out?

Now, it's in at least a 1/4 inch past the lip of the retaining nut...yeah, no luck pulling it out.

WHAT WOULD STOP ME FROM KNOCKING IT ALL THE WAY THROUGH INTO THE WHEEL BEARINGS? I'm going to replace them anyway - can I not just KNOCK this thing all the way through, spin that damn nut off and change the rotors?

 

[2stroke]

I'm not sure why everyone is saying to replace the wheel bearings. Rotors are as simple as taking the tires off, and popping the two pins for the calipers out. Once the caliper is out, the rotor can come off. Sometimes you can just hit it with a hammer, some times you have to heat the center with a torch. It is my understanding there are three kinds of hub assemblies on these, a 2x4 style, a 4x4 auto style, and a 4x4 manual lock style. I've only ever messed with 4x4 with manual hubs, and its a no brainer. I'm guessing you have auto locking hubs. If that's the case, I can't help.

 

[natenkiki2004]

2stroke, on the 1st gen Explorers, the wheel bearings have races that are attached to the rotor. The wheel bearings pinch in on either side of the rotor and the axle nuts that tidmarsh is talking about hold the bearings in place. You can't pop the rotor off by removing the caliper, you have to remove the retaining nuts holding it all in place.

Take a look here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696

You'll see this image:

That's the piece that's causing problems. The manual vs auto hubs are only different in the style of nut that holds the bearing/rotor in place, aside from that, they all function the same and should use the same rotor and other parts.

Tidmarsh, whether or not you can keep pounding it in... I couldn't tell you. I don't think you can, I think it will hit on the inner ring/race on the bearing and not go any further.

 

[2stroke]

Hmm... I've done wheel bearings on these plenty of times. Is it possible I've never warped a rotor? Now I see why I couldn't understand. The manual hubs don't have that locking key. They use two special nuts. The inner it torqued down lightly, spacer, then the outside you just send it home. Any idea if the key is hardended? Maybe he could drill a tiny hole in it, tap it, and thread a screw in it to pull from.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

I was lying in bed last night wondering the same thing...if I could drill a hole and/or a self tapping screw into it.

Gut is that its hardened and won't work; but I'm going to try.

I've done all the brake jobs on all the cars since a kid; never seen such a PITA piece.

Going to go see a garage today and see if they have a nuclear type magnet that will pull this piece that takes a hammer and screwdriver to move out.

 

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Tidmarsh, whether or not you can keep pounding it in... I couldn't tell you. I don't think you can, I think it will hit on the inner ring/race on the bearing and not go any further.

I was studying the pics last night and thinking the same thing...there goes that thought; the drill and screw is going to work and if not I'm going to grind a sliver into the nut where I can come from above to get leverage on it.

These nuts I'm going to grind - easy to find; replace? I will also need at least one thrust spacer (I'm assuming any old washer should work?).

This is what I thought might be the case...crap! Slotted axle nut...