How to reset SOHC RH bank timing (easy)?

[Billy00NC]

I'm posting this in a different thread than another post because I think many of you are going to yell at me for asking this...

A shop got my RH bank out of time when replacing LH and jackshaft chains. They won't own up to it. I think it's only slightly off because RH bank compression is 50lbs less than LH bank, and I'm getting misfire codes on bank one.

I know I'm supposed to use the SOHC timing kit, but I was wondering if I could get away with removing the RH valve cover, putting cylinder 1 at TDC, locking the cam down while loosening the camshaft bolt, then moving the cam back to bottom lobe - grooves parallel position. Cam lobes for cylinder 1 should be up so both valves should be closed.

Can I do it? Start yelling!

 

[Tech By Trade]

No. You need the tool that puts the correct pressure on the chain through the tensioner hole, then you need the tool that holds the crank at TDC, and then you need the tool that holds the cam at 0 position, then you need to tighten the 2 bolts. It has been done by epoxying a dead tensioner and building a holder for the camshaft, but you still need to hold the crank solid so you can torque everything down. this assumes that neither of the gears on the jackshaft will be moving.

 

[Flash]

Yes you can, I've done it myself.

 

[boominXplorer]

Hardest part is getting the correct torque on a bolt that's very hard to get to without the special S wrench. It's $200 for the kit new and you can have no worries when done.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Hardest part is getting the correct torque on a bolt that's very hard to get to without the special S wrench. It's $200 for the kit new and you can have no worries when done.

Forgot about that one, I don't know how you would get to that bolt on the back of the passenger side cam to torque it without the kit. On the 07 its actually under the cowl about 3 inches.

 

[Billy00NC]

Revisit...I've been trying to get someone to loan me the OTC6488 kit and they haven't come through. I'm either going to buy it or rent it from an online rental place. I haven't found decent instructions on doing the timing in-vehicle. It will be easy enough to get the valve covers off to lock down cams, but I haven't read what is involved in locking down the crank with the OTC tool. Can I lock down the crank (via harmonic balancer) without removing the water pump? Does anyone have DIY instructions with pics?

 

[CDW6212R]

To the OP, you should use the proper tools. Even if the procedure is known(and what the cam end shapes have to be lined up as/with), doing any of it without the tools is very inaccurate. It may get it close, but it's the same as timing a distributor based on eyeball or little marks. You cannot see by eye the difference between perfect, and one degree off, or several degrees in either direction. One degree is super fine small.

Given all that being said, holding the crank at TDC is just as important, and the "proper" TDC tool sucks. It's made to variably hold onto the balancer edge teeth, which is does poorly(you can move it or wiggle it around, and get a different fitment(crank moves one or more degrees)). Also the other protruding arm is made to rest up against the block or timing cover. Anyone who's worked on the timing cover with that tool might notice that the edge of each do not line up often. So the crank will end up at a different location depending on whether the timing cover is on when the timing is set.

The point is that the tools are much more accurate than eye balling the parts. But the TDC tool is poorly designed, fragile not rigid etc. So locating TDC is based on the balancer being perfect, and not spun on the inner rubber, and how you hold your tongue(the TDC tool).

I have to do my SOHC again very soon, and this time I will use a timing degree wheel on the crank. With a piston stop tool, and a degree wheel, you can find dead exact TDC, not some hope you are close with the tool location.

Setting the cam timing close by eye isn't wise, but the tools aren't perfect either. Do what you can, sorry to hear the OP had a bad shop do the work and not set both cams properly. Regards,

 

[Billy00NC]

Thanks for the reply Don, However, I didn't get a clear answer to my two questions...(1) Using the TDC tool (part of the OTC6488 kit), can I lock down the crank without removing the water pump or timing chain cover? And...(2) Can anyone give me a source of documentation on the procedures for setting the timing "in vehicle"?

A Ford dealership wants $500 for the job and told me the labor included removing valve covers, but did say they had to do anything with the front of the motor. I do intend to check piston height and crank position to set TDC. I just don't want to tear the front of the motor down if I don't need to.

I had access to a Ford Service Manual, but it had very little instructions on setting the timing. There's plenty of YouTube videos and posts of timing chain installations (out of car), and chain tensioner replacements, but I can't find any documentation with illustrations.

 

[Tech By Trade]

The tool hooks right up to the balancer. no need to pull the water pump. Only thing is to pull the valve covers, and anything required to pull the valve covers. You just follow the same procedure as with the engine out. The tool has a tooth that hooks into a certan space in the outside of the balancer. The other side rests against the block holding it in place. You cant get it on unless number 1 is tdc. Timing it is actualy pretty simple with the OTC kit. Just a matter of putting on all the locking tools and tightening up bolts. Maybe 10 minutes once everything is apart.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes the TDC tool can be used without pulling the WP. I gather that question is because the front chains and tensioners are already done. Usually that's a given that the whole front has to come apart.

The upper intake also comes off to do the middle intake gaskets, you may not need that either.

Just be sure that all of the tensioners get replaced, the external two are the easiest to do.

It's fairly simple beyond the parts removal and replacement(that's where the labor cost is). The tools are used to lock each camshaft in place(at its TDC location), while the cranks is at TDC. The descriptions you find in manuals or instructions show you what the shape of the end of each cam is, and what orientation is the TDC.

So when you get into it, before loosening any bolt holding a camshaft, turn the crank to TDC and see how far off each cam is. It sounds like the left cam is fine and you think the right one is off a bit. I'd personally take some pictures of the proof, the TDC tool mounted properly, and each cam showing the end which should show TDC. Good luck,