How To: Troubleshoot & repair defective power door lock wiring on a 1995 Aerostar. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Troubleshoot & repair defective power door lock wiring on a 1995 Aerostar.

BrooklynBay

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The power door lock switch on the driver's door main panel was inoperable. The switch on the passenger's side main panel was working properly. This proves that the fuse, and the main power door lock wiring are working. The next step is to remove the suspected defective switch, and test it. The center connection of the switch is a constant 12 volts DC coming through the power door lock motor, so technically it's not coming off of the fuse directly. To simply this, the power goes to the lock, then to the black/white wire on the switch's center contact. The other 2 wires provide the ground to the opposite side of the power door lock actuator.

After thorough testing, it was determined that there was no power going to the power door lock on the driver's side through the switch, and one ground wire to unlock the door. The switch tested OK.

This is the main panel on the driver's side:
Door_panel_switches_.JPG

There are 2 screws on the left which have to be removed. This is the inside of the main switch panel:
Door_panel_switch_assembly_.JPG

The 4 screws have to be removed to pop the switches out. The inner panels have to be removed near the fuse block. This is the fuse block with the separate fuse for the power door lock:
The_power_door_lock_fuse_is_on_the_left_with_the_green_stripe_.JPG

The fuse is on the left with the green stripe. It's a green 30 amp fuse. I don't know why it has its own holder instead of being integrated into the main fuse panel. This is the main bulk head connector which comes out of the door:
Door_panel_bulk_head_disconnected_.JPG

There were 4 problem points with this circuit on this van. 2 connectors were making intermittent contact in the bulk head, and 2 wires within the door's wiring harness were defective. To solve these problems, 2 new wires have to be connected, and 2 screws have to be inserted into the area where the wire goes into the bulk head. This is the connector:
Repaired_door_lock_wiring_with_the_bulk_head_.JPG

The new wires, and screws are shown in white in this picture. This is the part in the door panel with the 2 new wires:
Repaired_door_panel_switch_assembly_wiring_.JPG

Always test everything before, and after you put the panels back on.
 



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I fixed my non-responsive door LOCK button (in the driver's side) with this troubleshooter; Thank you.

turned out to be the exact problem & solution although I spliced only 1 wire between the plug connection inside the van and the rear of the LOCK button/switch. (the pink/yellow-stripe wire). Seems like every Ford owner has the same problem, (Taurus, F-150, etc.) not just the Aerostar.

I routed the new wire through the door to door jamb "accordion boot" using a clothes hanger to pull it out to the interior of the van. I left enough "play" for the new wire to move/stretch when door is opened and fastened it to the original harness with vinyl ties every 3 or 4 inches. I don't want to do this job again. The door LOCK switch works fine now, door closed or opened.

I also fixed the driver's door window glass getting stuck half-way up by lubricating the motor arm connection at the motor itself with spray lubricant.
 






The power door lock switch on the driver's door main panel was inoperable. The switch on the passenger's side main panel was working properly. This proves that the fuse, and the main power door lock wiring are working. The next step is to remove the suspected defective switch, and test it. The center connection of the switch is a constant 12 volts DC coming through the power door lock motor, so technically it's not coming off of the fuse directly. To simply this, the power goes to the lock, then to the black/white wire on the switch's center contact. The other 2 wires provide the ground to the opposite side of the power door lock actuator.

After thorough testing, it was determined that there was no power going to the power door lock on the driver's side through the switch, and one ground wire to unlock the door. The switch tested OK.

This is the main panel on the driver's side:
Door_panel_switches_.jpg

There are 2 screws on the left which have to be removed. This is the inside of the main switch panel:
Door_panel_switch_assembly_.jpg

The 4 screws have to be removed to pop the switches out. The inner panels have to be removed near the fuse block. This is the fuse block with the separate fuse for the power door lock:
or_lock_fuse_is_on_the_left_with_the_green_stripe_.jpg

The fuse is on the left with the green stripe. It's a green 30 amp fuse. I don't know why it has its own holder instead of being integrated into the main fuse panel. This is the main bulk head connector which comes out of the door:
Door_panel_bulk_head_disconnected_.jpg

There were 4 problem points with this circuit on this van. 2 connectors were making intermittent contact in the bulk head, and 2 wires within the door's wiring harness were defective. To solve these problems, 2 new wires have to be connected, and 2 screws have to be inserted into the area where the wire goes into the bulk head. This is the connector:
Repaired_door_lock_wiring_with_the_bulk_head_.jpg

The new wires, and screws are shown in white in this picture. This is the part in the door panel with the 2 new wires:
Repaired_door_panel_switch_assembly_wiring_.jpg

Always test everything before, and after you put the panels back on.

I have a question it has nothing to do with the power window lock switch but in the one picture when you show the fuse box right above it right behind the bell signal white box is that teal box when I have my key on running or not it makes a funny buzzing crackling sound it kinda scars me sounds like its shorting out or on fire and I don't need and of that happing
 












It's the chime module. It makes a chime if you leave the headlights on with the door ajar, and the engine off. You could get a new one in a junkyard if it's making a strange noise.

The chime box is ok its the blue green box behind it, it only makes those sounds when the key is on
 






You must be referring to the SRS module. Do you hear this noise after the SRS light stops blinking or when you turn off the electrical system while opening the driver's side door? That module doesn't have such a pleasant sound.
 






You must be referring to the SRS module. Do you hear this noise after the SRS light stops blinking or when you turn off the electrical system while opening the driver's side door? That module doesn't have such a pleasant sound.

as soon as i turn the key on engine on or off and it makes it all the time some sounds are loud and not so much it just crackles and gurgles its odd and the SRS light is not on it turns on with the key then turns off as it should
 






I'm glad this thread was here! My PDL's were going on and off by themselves, and I was worried it'd drain the battery. Of course, none of the fuses in the panel are marked, so I tried pulling each one, then hitting the button. I was NOT happy to find that none of them was it!! Leave it to Ford for putting the fuse by itself! Strangely, we used to have an 06 PT Cruiser, and the same thing happened!
 






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