How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

[rb142]

No BFH needed for that bolt. That will probably just make things worse. Pop the brake lines out of the plastic clip holding them so that they will flex a little. Then you can work the old bolt out around them. After reading the stories on this site I was expecting a huge fight, but it didn't take me more than a couple minutes to get out. The new one is easier to put in because the cam washer isn't welded to the bolt so you have more flexibility.

 

[RadioDoc]

There seems to be some conflicting info as far as needing the new camber kit bolts or being able to reuse the old ones.
Can I just reuse the same bolts or do I have to get the Moog Camber kit bolts?

Thanks

The factory uses square metal washers ( non-adjustable ) on both sides.

The MOOG washers are cam-shaped and allow for camber adjustment using a socket wrench or breaker bar to move the cams.

IF you are on a level concrete garage floor, a plain carpenter's level held
to the top and bottom of your tire should tell you if the factory square washers
are OK to use. I set camber at 0 or straight up ( no tire lean ) .

But I don't go max out on twisty roads either.

A little top inward camber is what the factory recommends .
( not near the book now for the numbers ) .

 

[Mettal-Mobile]

Having trouble

can't seem to get the passenger side upper rod to fit into the hole. I have a 2wd so thinking maybe they gave me one for 4wd (unless they're the same size) I tried expanding the whole w a wedge but it won't go in. every other video/forum ive seen they seem to go in pretty easy. I've smacked the hell out of it w a hammer and it won't go. thoughts?

 

[sehaare]

I'm assuming the you are talking about the ball joint. I just did it on a 4wd. I pried the Pinch clamp apare a little with a crow bar. then I put a jack under the LCA to raise it up until the ball joint made contact, then I hit the top of the ball joint with a BFM and tapped it in.

Good Luck
Steve

 

[rb142]

You probably have the wrong ball joint. There are a bunch of threads here with people describing that issue. If the ball joint won't go back in relatively easily, it is the wrong part. There must have been a part change somewhere along the way.

 

[RadioDoc]

can't seem to get the passenger side upper rod to fit into the hole. I have a 2wd so thinking maybe they gave me one for 4wd (unless they're the same size) I tried expanding the whole w a wedge but it won't go in. every other video/forum ive seen they seem to go in pretty easy. I've smacked the hell out of it w a hammer and it won't go. thoughts?

Just exactly what are you smacking ? The camber bolts on the inner ends
of the control arms at the frame , or the ball joint on the outer end ?

 

[Mettal-Mobile]

Thanks for all your input guys. Turns out I damaged the hole trying to pound the ball joint in when it wasn't centered (kind of a noob at this lol) it created a small lip over the hole so it couldn't fit. Cleared it out with a dremil bit, lubed it up and got it in no problem. Live n learn. Thanks again!

 

[RadioDoc]

Thanks for all your input guys. Turns out I damaged the hole trying to pound the ball joint in when it wasn't centered (kind of a noob at this lol) it created a small lip over the hole so it couldn't fit. Cleared it out with a dremil bit, lubed it up and got it in no problem. Live n learn. Thanks again!

As critical as a steering part is....... I'd be a little concerned about the pounding and then opening up the hole with a Dremel Tool.

Hopefully, nothing has been fractured, but as cheap as ball joints are .....
I'd replace it if I were giving the truck to my son or daughter.

I hate these press-out / press-in ball joints that Ford uses.
My S-10 Blazer's ball joints are held to the control arms by four bolts.
MUCH easier to replace for us weekend mechanics.