Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[Thanx SVT]

Hi all,
I have a '98 Explorer 2wd. I'm planning on replacing the upper and lower ball joints. Do I need to loosen the torsion bars in order to do it? I don't see anyone here mentioning that step, but like every "official" manual that I've found specifically mentions doing that.

Personally I can't see why I'd need to loosen the torsion bars since I'm not planning on removing the lower A-arm, but thought I'd throw this out there to make sure I'm not missing something.

 

[emberswzd]

I didnt when I did mine Good Luck

 

[Steeda04SVT]

I'm gonna be doing mine next weekend. Never done this job before so I'm expecting it to take longer than it should.

 

[sehaare]

interesting... the only time grease has escaped from my Moog joints is when the boot gets a pinhole.
not once has grease ever left through any sort of "relief valve"

I believe there has been a discussion on that brought up before (at least, I believe I remember seeing one).

Interesting that they say that, when I've never seen it myself.

Just a follow up, I was under my car the last couple of days and took a look at the moog ball joints while I was there. They have not blown out their seals but they also show no signs of any grease leaving any "relief valve" either.

Steve

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Not sure if I over greased them last time, but appears to be some grease squeezing out at the bottom of the boot.....

 

[Bob 2000 Exp]

Last month I towed home a 2000 Explorer Sport, 109,000 miles on it, left suspension pointing left very much. Last week I applied penetrating oil on the suspension hoping it would make the suspension work easier. This is a new type project for me, worked on old Plymouths for many years. Today started taking old suspension parts off. Started with shocks, sway bar end links. Following the guides and info on here, the lower ball joint came off easy, driver side. I believe days of oil soaking in helped.

The upper control arm seems a little bent, best I can tell, so new replacement for sure. Will try to get the upper off tomorrow. Being an old guy, I can only do a few hours a day on this stuff. I hope the lower control arm is not bent.

On the passenger side, I turn the steering all the way left and right, and check caster/camber, with a little lean in and out. Wheel pointing straight, has a little top inward lean.

 

[Bob 2000 Exp]

Cam bolt/washer question..

I got the upper control out, driver side, not too much problem, except not much room to remove the front cam bolt. Question is, one of the cam bolt washers is square, nothing like the other three washers. The cam bolt would not be able to turn with a washer like this. Anyone know of this setup?

 

[mikepier]

So where is the best place to buy all the stuff? I think I'm doing uppers and lowers on my 99. I found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Explorer-Ra...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6bbb324d&vxp=mtr

Is this cheap aftermarket?

 

[jeff spahn]

I got mine at Advance Auto parts to do the lower ball joints. They even loan you the tools to do the job.

 

[mikepier]

Need help

I just worked on the passengers side today. I purchased Moog as everyone suggested, but when I installed the LBJ, I was not sure if it looked right. The retainer clip is seated higher than the stock ones.

Is this right? I thought the retainer clip is suppose to sit flush with the control arm? If anyone can provide input, I would appreciate it.

 

[swshawaii]

Something's not right. Is drivers side the same?
Hopefully you won't need a new lower control arm.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf

 

[jeff spahn]

I just worked on the passengers side today. I purchased Moog as everyone suggested, but when I installed the LBJ, I was not sure if it looked right. The retainer clip is seated higher than the stock ones.

Is this right? I thought the retainer clip is suppose to sit flush with the control arm? If anyone can provide input, I would appreciate it.

Should be fine. Mine looked like this and it works perfectly for last 20,000 miles

 

[mikepier]

Something's not right. Is drivers side the same?
Hopefully you won't need a new lower control arm.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009_K8695T006_En.pdf

I installed the new ball joint using the jack method, and I had to hammer the control arm quite a few times to get it in, so I know it is tight. Just seems a little taller.

 

[mikepier]

Should be fine. Mine looked like this and it works perfectly for last 20,000 miles

Ok , good to know, thanks.

I ran out of daylight, so tomorrow I am going to finish up the passengers side.
I am installing a new tie rod end also. But once the tie rod is in, how do I install the toe-in/out adjustments? I know I have to screw the new tie rod on, but once its in, and after test driving, how do you adjust it? If I loosen the backer nut, does the inner rod turn in or out allowing adjustment?

EDIT: Never mind,I figured it out how to adjust the tie-rod. Basically loosen the locknut, and with a wrench, twist the inner tie rod, and the wheel will move in and out.

 

[Blueman2]

I think having the retainer ring positioned higher than the arm is OK. I believe the retainer ring is only there to make sure the ball joint does not fall out in the event the press fit fails.

If the press fit fails and the joint works loose, the worst that will happen as long as the ring holds is that the ball joint will thrash around in the bore and your handling will go to hell. By then you should be aware that you need a new LCA as well as a new ball joint

 

[mikepier]

Just got done yesterday doing the drivers side upper and lower ball joints. Last week I did the passengers side. She rides real good now.I also replaced both tie rod ends.
I did notice the steering a little out of whack, but I eyeballed it and adjusted the tie-rods, and now she drives straight.
I did manage to wrestle out the infamous back bolt everyone talked about. It took me about 5 minutes. Removing the fuel-line from the clip, and pushing in the UCA does help. If you are going to do this job soon, all I have to say is be patient with that back bolt.

 

[mr_valingo]

I actually got my uca bolts out pretty easy, my lower ball joints...even easier. They fell out. Had to weld in the new lower ball joints

 

[jremington59]

After reading this thread I'm going to do my drivers side lower this weekend as it's nearly gone. The only problem is our local autozone doesn't carry Moog. And I have to buy it there in order to rent the tool. There best one is from TRW. Anyone have any insight on this brand?

 

[jremington59]

I did the lower ball joint and put on a new timkin hub this afternoon. All went well except the knuckle wouldn't come off because the ball joint stud was frozen to the knuckle. It took almost a half hour to break free.

I beat the ball joint out with a hammer and put the new one in using the "jack method" from this thread. I'd like to thank MountainGreen for a well written and informative thread. It was exactly as was written up. I'd never done a ball joint before today and it feels good doing it myself. Feels even better saving the labor money. Thx again.

 

[Turbo79]

This thread alone motivated me to ante up and become an Elite Explorer.

Recently picked up a '96 XLT 4WD, it was clear that an alignment was needed, my preferred auto shop said that they couldn't align the truck because the lower ball joints were bad; their quote was about $500. to replace the LBJs and then align.

I went to my local Carquest, and they had lower cost BJs and a heavy duty set. The cheapies were about $21. each, the heavy duty ones $43.34 each. I opted for the better ones (they say "Raybestos" on the box), and Carquest "lent" me the ball joint removal tool.

I followed MountainGreen's steps exactly, and all went as he showed. This Exploder is a Pacific NW rig, so no massive rust issues to deal with.

I picked up OEM axle nuts and upper ball joint pinch nuts, along with the dust seals that fit between the 'back' of the spindle (inner side) and the CV axle. (No one in the parts of this thread I have been able to read mentioned these dust seals, BTW.) from my local Ford dealer.

I am a freak about using OEM fasteners, particularly axle nuts, I would never reuse axle nuts as they are 'crush' nuts and lose the 'crush' after one use.

I did follow all torque specs on attaching nuts for the suspension parts - tie rods, upper spindle, lower BJ and axle nuts; I believe in this when it comes to suspension and engine rotating parts and cylinder heads, despite the extra trouble and time and the investment in a couple of torque wrenches. I got this notion from a racing mechanic friend who wrenches on Taurus SHOs and a racing Mazda RX that his wife drives (quite well, I might add). I happen to also own a '92 SHO that's tricked out a little, and have been posting at a SHO Forum for a few years.

Love this site, it's already helped me with some electronic/electrical issues (like the door ajar issue) besides the LBJ install, and I appreciate all you Exploder/Mounty/Ranger enthusiasts who post such helpful information for amateur mechanics like me.

Thanks!