Upper Control Arm Ball Joint Rusted In!!

[markfothebeast]

I am replacing all the ball joints. I was finally able to login. I read the forum a lot. Passengers side has a goofy adjustable UCA. It looks like the ball joint has been in there since the vehicle rolled off the assembly line. I wasn't able to remove the ball joint with maximum force on a 12 ton press and beating it with a hammer while under pressure. I cut the ball out and broke the plastic out. All that is left is the metal housing. Had it under a propane torch for 20 minutes and no luck. It almost looks as if it is one with the UCA as if it was welded in. I could try a O2/MAP torch I guess. Or possibly even use a sawzall to cut it inside. Might need to go get a junkyard replacement as a last option. Any ideas?

I also have another question: How do I line up the UCA on the drivers side so that the ball joint tip sits in the knuckle of the spindle far enough so that the bolt slides in? The bolt hits the ball joint tip and won't slide through. I have the LCA jacked up but it doesn't seem like it wants to move up far enough to attach the upper ball joint. Do i have to remove the sway bar link?

 

[MAS Tequila]

Do not, repeat, DO NOT reuse those upper control arms.

They are not made to reuse. The new ball joints will never sit correctly in the old UCA's.

Buy 2 new ones, and get the one piece option for the passenger side.

They're very reasonably priced at RockAuto.com.

While you're in there put in a set of adjustable camber bolts.

MT

 

[swshawaii]

"How To" threads for 1995-2001 Explorers - Stickys compiled
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386329

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/did-you-know/english/DYK10_106_En.pdf

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/proble...Bulletin_27045_Ford_Truck_Control_Arms_En.pdf

Unlike the OE non-serviceable control arm with ball joint, MOOG control arms feature a
serviceable cartridge-style ball joint when severe duty vehicle usage warrants its replacement.

 

[koda2000]

You can't replace the ball joint in the OE upper control arm. Is that what you're trying to do? The whole arm must be replaced on the driver's side and at least 1/2 the arm on the passenger side.

As said, replace with Moog, then in the future just the ball joint can be changed. The weird 2-piece upper control arm on the passenger side is to allow for additional caster adjustment, but it can be replaced with a 1-piece upper if you prefer.

 

[markfothebeast]

Buying new parts for this vehicle is not in the budget for the person I am repairing it for. The one piece UCA seems much more durable to reuse although you mentioned not to reuse the UCA'S. I don't have much of a choice other than to find a one piece for the passengers side from the junkyard. Is there a factory one piece on some models/years?

 

[markfothebeast]

I did replace the drivers side UCA ball joint with no issues. It even had a Moog ball joint in it that I popped out. The passengers side unit is iffy...cheap and flimsy looking. I WILL have to replace that regardless.

 

[koda2000]

Regarding lining up the upper BJ with the spindle. It should pretty much just slide right in. You might need to drive a wedge (screw driver or small chisel) into the split in the spindle to gain a little more play. Are you sure you didn't buy a Ranger coil-spring BJ? They are different and will not fit the Explorer torsion rod spindle.

 

[markfothebeast]

I think you hit it right on. I most likely need to widen the gap on the knuckle. It slides about 95% in and I can't move it any further.

 

[swshawaii]

Buying new parts for this vehicle is not in the budget for the person I am repairing it for. The one piece UCA seems much more durable to reuse although you mentioned not to reuse the UCA'S. I don't have much of a choice other than to find a one piece for the passengers side from the junkyard. Is there a factory one piece on some models/years?

If I'm reading this right you will be installing a used one-piece UCA from the salvage yard with a likely worn ball joint
and bushings. Chances are if the person doesn't want to pay for new parts they certainly won't pay for camber kits
and alignment either. Good luck, hope you aren't liable for anything after your installation.

 

[markfothebeast]

As for using Moog parts for future replacement purposes, I don't think this Explorer will see another ball joint replacement in it's life span. Hence why the spending limit is kept to a minimum. If the ball joint angle is slightly off (which I'm sure they never press in completely straight), what type of issue does this present? Safety or alignment related?

After pressing the ball joints in on the LCA and UCA on the drivers side, the UCA has a deeper dish to guide the ball joint in to a much straighter position versus the LCA has a thinner steel which appears to allow for a much greater chance to cause the ball joint to press in at an improper angle. Is the reasoning behind simply replacing the UCA's because of the possibility of improper ball joint angle or because the arms could have bent or?

 

[markfothebeast]

If I'm reading this right you will be installing a used one-piece UCA from the salvage yard with a likely worn ball joint
and bushings. Chances are if the person doesn't want to pay for new parts they certainly won't pay for camber kits
and alignment either. Good luck, hope you aren't liable for anything after your installation.

Not exactly. I will find a used UCA with a ball joint that is not rusted in place and press that ball joint out to install a new one. I am unable to remove the ball joint as shown in the image. I just do not want to have to order a new UCA. This truck needs to be mobile within a day or two.

I have an entire bushing/ball joint/tie rod/sway bar link kit that has been sitting for a few months waiting to be installed. The truck will also be getting an alignment/camber adjustment.

 

[swshawaii]

I did replace the drivers side UCA ball joint with no issues. It even had a Moog ball joint in it that I popped out. The passengers side unit is iffy...cheap and flimsy looking. I WILL have to replace that regardless.

^ This is for a 1995-01 Explorer, correct?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...0l+v6+ohv,1354553,suspension,ball+joint,10070

I'd bet that was a Moog aftermarket UCA with a replaceable ball joint, and not OEM. Just trying to save you time.
If it has a TRW stamp on the underside it's an OEM upper control arm and the ball joint can't be removed. Pic below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2441987&postcount=194

 

[markfothebeast]

I went ahead and just ordered the control arm complete I don't have time to be fartin around with the control arm. A complete set was $48.