97exploder19
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- April 20, 2010
- Messages
- 107
- Reaction score
- 1
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 99 Limited 5.0
Im trying to figure out my low/luke warm air temp situation. My heat will blow hot air but its not as hot as it should be, more like warm air. Im trying to narrow down the possible culprit.
I hear no clicking noise in the dash so I believe my blend door is working properly. I can get cold air to come out in the summer time.
There's another door that you can see if you take the glove box down, I believe its the fresh/recircuplating? Either way its closed until I turn the auto climate down all the way to 60 degrees then it opens. Is that correct?
I still need to check the heater control valve more thoroughly. The hose before the valve is hot, after the valve to the firewall, not too much. Does anyone know what position the valve is in with the engine off? Or can I manually push the rod on the valve to try and see if I get more heat? What about just bypassing the valve all together?
Im going to try the EATC diagnostic test today and see if any error codes get thrown.
If I flush the heater core with air pressure will I have any problems? Is the hose without the heater control valve the output? Just want to make sure im backwashing the heater core. It could be blocked up with **** due to its age.
Any other suggestions to look for?
I hear no clicking noise in the dash so I believe my blend door is working properly. I can get cold air to come out in the summer time.
There's another door that you can see if you take the glove box down, I believe its the fresh/recircuplating? Either way its closed until I turn the auto climate down all the way to 60 degrees then it opens. Is that correct?
I still need to check the heater control valve more thoroughly. The hose before the valve is hot, after the valve to the firewall, not too much. Does anyone know what position the valve is in with the engine off? Or can I manually push the rod on the valve to try and see if I get more heat? What about just bypassing the valve all together?
Im going to try the EATC diagnostic test today and see if any error codes get thrown.
If I flush the heater core with air pressure will I have any problems? Is the hose without the heater control valve the output? Just want to make sure im backwashing the heater core. It could be blocked up with **** due to its age.
Any other suggestions to look for?