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Hydrolocked motor, need advice.

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I have, but I mean.. let's say my con rod on the explorer is broken.. can I use my 90 con rod ? I'm also sure I could search that but if someone on here can answer the question that'd be even better, that's why I come here. To get away from google and talk to you guys.
 






Surviving Hydrolock

Firstly I'm sorry to hear about what happened to your truck.

I have previously hydrolocked the SOHC motor in my 98 explorer, the whole intake manifold must have been filled with water. I pulled the plugs cranked it by hand then cranked it with the key and "CRACK" I shattered the rear timing chain guide. This caused the right camshaft to retard by over 10 degrees and scatter plastic debris every where from inside my oil pickup to wedged behind timing chains and sprockets.

What I suggest you do is change the oil and filter several times to purge all the water from your entire oil system. Do it sooner rather then later to save your bearings. I suggest using the cheapest 20w/50 oil and filters Wal-mart has to offer. It took about 5 changes for my oil to stay thick enough for the valves to operate properly. After the first few times she was sounding like a diesel, due to the oil still being too thin. Whilst running the engine in between oil changes grab a broom handle and have a poke around, listening to one end try to find where the noise is actually comming from, topend, bottom end, left side, right side, ect... then try to narrow it down to individual cylinders.

A hydrolock is always a damn shame but it doesn't have to end that way. I was convinced my engine had met its demise but 20,000kms later she pulls stronger then ever. Which ever avenue you decide to take you will certainly have your work cut out for you. Although, the smile on your face once you fix a problem like this.;)
 






Firstly I'm sorry to hear about what happened to your truck.

I have previously hydrolocked the SOHC motor in my 98 explorer, the whole intake manifold must have been filled with water. I pulled the plugs cranked it by hand then cranked it with the key and "CRACK" I shattered the rear timing chain guide. This caused the right camshaft to retard by over 10 degrees and scatter plastic debris every where from inside my oil pickup to wedged behind timing chains and sprockets.

What I suggest you do is change the oil and filter several times to purge all the water from your entire oil system. Do it sooner rather then later to save your bearings. I suggest using the cheapest 20w/50 oil and filters Wal-mart has to offer. It took about 5 changes for my oil to stay thick enough for the valves to operate properly. After the first few times she was sounding like a diesel, due to the oil still being too thin. Whilst running the engine in between oil changes grab a broom handle and have a poke around, listening to one end try to find where the noise is actually comming from, topend, bottom end, left side, right side, ect... then try to narrow it down to individual cylinders.

A hydrolock is always a damn shame but it doesn't have to end that way. I was convinced my engine had met its demise but 20,000kms later she pulls stronger then ever. Which ever avenue you decide to take you will certainly have your work cut out for you. Although, the smile on your face once you fix a problem like this.;)

I only drained the oil once, I do have another 5L of oil I can use to do the second oil change. However I just haven't lol.

What I'd really like to know is if I can mix and match parts from my 1990 5.0 block and my 1996 block to make one complete working engine. There is nothing wrong with the 90 block...however we all know my 96 block is dysfunctional. Until I get a second vehicle to drive around I won't know EXACTLY what is wrong with my motor as I won't be able to take it apart till then.
 






Put your heads on the 90' block along with your upper and lower intake. Also the FEAD from the explorer 5.0 an the cam sync deal and the coil packs and crank pickup.

Basically use the 90 as a short block and there you go, running sploder :)
 






WOW, it's been awhile since I've been on here last.... Well heres the update...I haven't been working on the explorer tooo much. Been busy with work lately 3:30-4. ouch. The motor is almost ready to come out. I need to buy a fuel line disconnect. OH I also no longer can get my old 90 block back, the guy sold it to someone else....so now I have to buy another motor....or rebuild this one...anyone with any links or anything to a rebuild kit or motor for sale ?
 












I don't see why those engines wont work...however I still have to worry about the harmonic balancer and the crankshaft riiiight ?
 






Check out bond mechanical
 






Have you pulled your old motor out yet? For that kind of money you can rebuild your original motor. Can't hurt to at least pull it out and take a peek inside, it's gotta come out any way.

I have recently pulled out my motor as it had low compression in no#2 cylinder. I thought it was a valve but when I pulled the head off one piston was sitting about 5mm lower than the others at it's TDC position. Upon closer inspection it was blindingly obvious that I had a bent connecting rod. My crank is still strait so the parts I will need are as follows:

Piston $45
rings $40
Connecting rod $38
Timing kit $110
Complete gasket kit with head bolts $170

Even with the SOHC engine and postage to Australia, these parts come in way under the 1000 bucks wanted for that short block.

Just a thought. Might be fun to rebuild it.;)
 






Oh the motor is coming out anyways, it's almost out. I plan on rebuilding this motor anyways...I just dont want to wait much longer even after the motor is out, if I can get a block, put my parts on it and drop it in right quick I'm laughing.. But I have a feeling a full rebuild would be more time consuming.. we know for a fact I have a bent conrod, and my old Auto teacher figures my crankshaft is bent sooo either way which ever plan I go with I have a little bit of work ahead of me....


if the above didn't make sense, sorry I JUST woke up.. I'll edit later if need be.

Have you pulled your old motor out yet? For that kind of money you can rebuild your original motor. Can't hurt to at least pull it out and take a peek inside, it's gotta come out any way.

I have recently pulled out my motor as it had low compression in no#2 cylinder. I thought it was a valve but when I pulled the head off one piston was sitting about 5mm lower than the others at it's TDC position. Upon closer inspection it was blindingly obvious that I had a bent connecting rod. My crank is still strait so the parts I will need are as follows:

Piston $45
rings $40
Connecting rod $38
Timing kit $110
Complete gasket kit with head bolts $170

Even with the SOHC engine and postage to Australia, these parts come in way under the 1000 bucks wanted for that short block.

Just a thought. Might be fun to rebuild it.;)
 






I hydrolocked mine going thorugh about 4ft of water off road play day, pulled the plugs cranked it and started striaght away, drained the oil looked a brown colour and refilled running better, think everything got a steam clean as about a gallon came out of the exhaust from being sunk. running ok now. cannot seam to kill this explorer!!
cheers
Onetime
 






I hydrolocked mine going thorugh about 4ft of water off road play day, pulled the plugs cranked it and started striaght away, drained the oil looked a brown colour and refilled running better, think everything got a steam clean as about a gallon came out of the exhaust from being sunk. running ok now. cannot seam to kill this explorer!!
cheers
Onetime


Lucky you!
 






BUMP, any advice on what I should do with either of those motors I posted above from craigslist ? I was thinking buy the cheaper one, see if he'll go any lower. Change crank, harmonic balancer, oil pan, put front assembly back on and I'm good to go ?
 






I'd offer him 800 bucks and go from there. If the harmonic balancer goes on and is lined up in the right position, leave the crankshaft. I would double check that your tranny will mate up to it and the engine mount holes line up first. Then just use your original heads (assuming the valves are OK after hydrolock). And continue to build the engine from the other parts from your truck.
 






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