I hate when i gotta ask for help (pride drops to zero)

[jtf_explorer]

Well guys and gals, I am in the process of installing the skyjacker ranger 4" class II system on my 94 explorer with rear superlift 4" springs. The rear is finished. I already tore apart the front, everything is painted, and things are going back together. I am a bit stuck though. when I try to put in the passenger side Extended Radius Arm mount in place of the tranny crossmember, the bracket won't fit flush against the frame rail because the frame rail isn't straght like the bracket, it comes out a little making it were I can't get the bracket up enough to put in the 2 bolts. Also, the driver side frame rail doesn't have the 2 holes to bolt in the R.A. bracket, you are suppose to bolt in 2 bolts on the side and drill the 2 holes in the bottom for 2 more bolts, but there are no holes on the side. How do I install that bracket as well. Thanks for the help, the susp lift is so close to completion, so then the 3" body lift can get started.

 

[jtf_explorer]

Almost forgot i had to remove the rear sway-bar because i wouldn't fit with the new skyjacker 4" lift shocks. I got the piston rod that the boot cover at the top just like the old ones were on. did i mess up there or does everyone have to remove the rear sway-bar?

 

[bmxking5]

Sorry, I can't help you with the r/a's b/c I've never installed any. I do know however, that the sway bar end links in the front and the rear are too small. Think about it, the mounting point is now 4" away from where the sway bar used to bolt up. I don't believe they make any extended end links for the rear sway bar (they do for the front and they are probably with the kit), so you have two options. You can either weld in something in between the middle of the end link and the top mounting hole (so it's extended) or you can remove it completely. I do not have a sway bar on the rear at all, but I have an add-a-leaf, which stiffens up the ride a good bit. With those 4" Superlift springs, it should be stiff enough that it would be fine without it, but I've never felt how stiff they are. Do you plan on offroading it much...like anything above "stocker/easy 4wd" trails? If the lift is just for looks, leave the sway bar on and extend it to fit. The only reason to take it off is for better articulation in the rear, but it would be better to be on for the street.

 

[splodo49]

end links

they do have swaybar rear links but i dont recommend them And for the front on mine i went and bought some swaybar quick disconnects for a tj.

 

[jtf_explorer]

Yeah it is built for offroading, but nothing to radical, i don't want to hurt it to much. It isn't my daily driver, so rear sway bar will be staying off, thanks. Now just how to get the R.A. brackets on. Anyone else have this problem, or know what to do. thanks.

 

[Nick_Good]

I dont know if it will help you but i thought i would throw it out. I have the 4" superlift with the extended arms. for the front i had to order a sway bar relocation/drop bracket for the front. And the lift already came with the sway bar extended end links for the rear. All of this can be ordered from rocky mountain suspension.
hope this helps,
nick good

 

[jtf_explorer]

I got drop links for the front sway bar with the kit. everything is good except i just need info on putting these Radius Arm brackets on seeings they don't seem to be going on like the directions said.

I am a bit stuck though. when I try to put in the passenger side Extended Radius Arm mount in place of the tranny crossmember, the bracket won't fit flush against the frame rail because the frame rail isn't straght like the bracket, it comes out a little making it were I can't get the bracket up enough to put in the 2 bolts. Also, the driver side frame rail doesn't have the 2 holes to bolt in the R.A. bracket, you are suppose to bolt in 2 bolts on the side and drill the 2 holes in the bottom for 2 more bolts, but there are no holes on the side. How do I install that bracket as well. Thanks for the help, the susp lift is so close to completion, so then the 3" body lift can get started.

 

[DeRocha]

Yeah it is built for offroading, but nothing to radical, i don't want to hurt it to much. It isn't my daily driver, so rear sway bar will be staying off, thanks. Now just how to get the R.A. brackets on. Anyone else have this problem, or know what to do. thanks.

Yeah I know exactly what to do.. I just installed the skyjacker class II kit in my '93. I thought it was odd that they included front sway bar end links and not the rear.. Well if you loosen the brackets on the axle the sway bar will loosen up and rotate upward allowing you to keep the end links and rear sway bar.

As for the front RA brackets I noticed the same things you did. I started on the passenger side and lined up the bracket as best would fit. I then used a few vise grips to secure the bracke in place to keep it from moving (the holes in the bracket were still 1/16" misaligned from the frame holes). I then used a right angle drill to enlarge the holes by drilling through the frame and bracket. After each hole was drilled I installed its bolt and tightened it. For the drivers side I found no existing side frame holes, but 1 hole on the underside of the frame. I installed a bolt into this hole and measured from the back of the bracket to the body body mount (on both drivers and passengers sides) to verify the hole was correct (and it was). I then clamped the bracket in place and drilled out the holes. Note before driilling I removed the brake/fuel lines from the frame clips and used a 4x8" piece of scrap steel as a buffer between the frame and lines to protect the lines from the drill bit during break through...

 

[Rhett]

In my case, I had the same problem--the r.a. bracket ended up slightly misaligned (about 1/4" off) with the frame holes. I was able to take a pry-bar and "convince" the bracket to line up with the frame holes. I know what you are thinking, pretty crude Rhett. It was indeed the cave-man approach. It took everything I had though, even with the weight off the suspension.

 

[jtf_explorer]

thanks for the help everyone. i did it the way you did derocha. i should be able to drive it tommorrow.

 

[410Fortune]

Not a single bolt on TTB kit I have ever installed ever lined up perfectly.

Skyjacker actualy fits better than most.

Keep in mind they design these kits usually based on the ranger, then look at the Explorer and say, it should work!

My frame got swiss cheesed on one side, because the holes were off. No problems in 5+ years. The kit is "self adjusting" hahahaha the trans X member bar was a ***** to get in the first time, had to use a come along on both brackets, the bar was slightly too long. Now it slides right in and out with a small tap of a hammer

Part of installing a drop bracket TTB lift is using your brain, cussing, and prying.

 

[DeRocha]

Not a single bolt on TTB kit I have ever installed ever lined up perfectly... Part of installing a drop bracket TTB lift is using your brain, cussing, and prying.

That is exactly why I wanted to install the kit myself (knowing I'd take the time to do it correctly not quickly). I didn't want some local yahoo mechanic practicing on my rig... One problem that took a few days to figure out was how to fit the extended Radius Arms over the Beams. The driver's side fit over without any problem, but wouldn't swing inward enough to center the rear of the arm through the rear bracket. I had to take out the grinder and do some creative "Beam management"... The passenger side wouldn't go in at all and I had to grind the top and bottom of the beams (maybe 1/64") in a few areas to allow the bracket to fit. I had tried to expand the RA, but the problem was too close to the inner part...

 

[410Fortune]

OH yes the beams and or radius arms, espeically the d side at the differential require much grinding to get the raduis arm to come in far enough. this is true of Duff, Skyjackerm and Superlift.

The shocks will always require some work too, spacers to get them out far enough to clear the radius arms. Also you want to grind enough off of the arm so you can still get the differential bolt out with the arms in place (so you can drop the pig off th beam w/o removing the arm.
Fun fun.

 

[DeRocha]

OH yes the beams and or radius arms, espeically the d side at the differential require much grinding to get the raduis arm to come in far enough. this is true of Duff, Skyjackerm and Superlift.

The shocks will always require some work too, spacers to get them out far enough to clear the radius arms. Also you want to grind enough off of the arm so you can still get the differential bolt out with the arms in place (so you can drop the pig off th beam w/o removing the arm.
Fun fun.

I almost forgot about the shocks.. Yup.. I had to add 3/8" worth of washers to space the lower shock out far enought so the upper threadead part would go through the mounting hole. I didn't want skyjacker shocks as I heard they weren't that great. I measured the shocks for ride height, collapsed and extended settings and ordered Rancho 9000x adjusted shocks. The fronts were originally for a Bronco, and rears for an Excursion (yes Excursion not Expedition). The adjustible shocks allow me to lower the valving for a matched ride... They have worked out great so far...