I need some help

[Willard]

i'll do the leakdown, see what happens, i guess the injector could just be clogged, too. anyway to fine out about the manifold without tearing it apart? worst part about this is the thing runs perfect except for the miss. power isn't too bad, really, and it makes no bad noises, starts perfectly, just the one cylinder isn't doing anything. i should note, did a vacuum test as well, has all kinds of suction, so that should help rule out anything major.

 

[Willard]

well, i didn't do a leakdown, but i think from what i saw before that it won't show anything. What I did do though, was test the resistance on the fuel injector in question. Book said it should be between 14.5 and 19 ohms. Mine didn't even make the meter move. Sounds to me like it's dead. Guess I'll be tearing it apart and replacing soon

 

[manaen]

Now that's a result

it almost sounds like sometimes the injector was sticking open and sometimes it was closed. With the internal coil fried I would imagine it could do almost anything.

So did you test the rest of your injectors?

Since your taking the upper intake apart, I would suggest you take all the injectors out and have them professionally cleaned and tested at your local parts store. For about $15 to $30 per injector they will clean them, replace the basket filters and seals, and test them. it would be worth it to make sure you don't have to tear the thing apart anytime soon.

 

[YourNameHere]

well, i didn't do a leakdown, but i think from what i saw before that it won't show anything. What I did do though, was test the resistance on the fuel injector in question. Book said it should be between 14.5 and 19 ohms. Mine didn't even make the meter move. Sounds to me like it's dead. Guess I'll be tearing it apart and replacing soon

Well, there's your problem right there!


Glad to see you've made progress.

 

[quicklook2]

which cylinder is bad?

how did you reach the injector with the manifold on?

 

[Willard]

which cylinder is bad?

how did you reach the injector with the manifold on?

The bad cylinder is #2, the middle one on the passenger side. As far as the injector goes, All I needed was the electrical contacts to test it, so I was able to unplug it and get a tester on without much trouble. Couldn't have for the others, they are all covered with other stuff that would need to be taken off. I will be taking it apart beginning of next week, I can't wait to finally get this thing running right.

 

[Willard]

well, i finally got the new injector in and it was working great. It ran smooth, completely fixed my problem. I start up this morning, though, and go to get something to eat, only to find a good-sized gas leak. So I've gotten it home now, just hoping it wouldn't burst into flames. I think it's leaking from cylinder #3 injector or the FPR. Looks like I get to tear it apart again though

 

[YourNameHere]

well, i finally got the new injector in and it was working great. It ran smooth, completely fixed my problem. I start up this morning, though, and go to get something to eat, only to find a good-sized gas leak. So I've gotten it home now, just hoping it wouldn't burst into flames. I think it's leaking from cylinder #3 injector or the FPR. Looks like I get to tear it apart again though

Sounds to me like the injector isn't fully seated.

 

[Willard]

yea, took it back off and found I didn't seat the injectors very well. Got it fixed, and everything is dandy! It runs amazing!

 

[quicklook2]

did you have to take the upper manuifold off?

glad you got it fixed.

how much was the injector?

my number 5 injector is bad, middle on drivers side.

 

[Willard]

yea, the upper manifold and fuel rail had to come off. i got the injector for 27 bucks from www.rockauto.com. There isn't anymore for that price, but they have some for like 35 bucks, very cheap. I ordered it Tuesday night and got it Friday, so shipping is fast.

 

[Willard]

Bad TPS?

Well, i still have the CEL, so I ran the codes again. Same as before, only I got a 327 too, don't remember exactly what this is, but it pertains to the EGR. I was poking around and tested my TPS voltage. With the throttle closed it reads 5.0 volts, and with it opened it reads 5.0 volts. hmmmm.....sounds like a bad TPS to me, what do you guys think?

 

[YourNameHere]

That's def a bad TPS
Throttle closed should be .96-.98 V

 

[Willard]

Yea, I'll be changing it soon. Weird though, it seems to me with a non-functioning TPS it wouldn't run right, but it does.

 

[manaen]

are you sure you are reading the correct wire, there is a 5v supply to the TPS and then there is a .96v (closed) return which increases as the throttle opens. It is a simple potentiometer setup.

 

[Willard]

hmmmm....idk, i should go check that real quick.

 

[Willard]

ok, this time i got the right wire, except it reads ~3.9v closed and ~.44v open. how could it go backwards? :scratch:

 

[manaen]

you still have the wrong wire, you need to test the other one

 

[Willard]

well, i tested the other wire again, and it didn't change. so i'm guessing it's a bad TPS. It should be noted, while it runs a lot better than it did, the idle still isn't perfect and I think the gas mileage could be a little better. There are some symptoms that could be a bad TPS, it always hesitates on the first acceleration when cold, then it's fine.

 

[Willard]

ok, ok, NOW I have the right wire. Closed it is at 1.02v and at WOT is ~4.5v. If it was high in both positions, I would think it would just need adjustment, but since it is high on one and low on the other, it just seems like it is still bad.