I want 3 simple answers....

[CDW6212R]

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Penzoil Ultra is NOT a true full synthetic. It is a group III+ base stock with PAOs and Esters added. The difference between it and Platinum is the additive package, which it uses to attain an extended drain interval so they would have a product that directly competed with the Mobil 1 synthetic's extended drain interval.
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Since when did Pennzoil change their oil? I'm not going to go back and forth with anyone about one detail, but they were a pure synthetic oil the last time I checked a couple of years ago. Theirs cost a good bit more too back then. Now it's about the same cost, was that a transition after they did something?



Many lesser quality OEM type of paper air filters do restrict airflow notably after a few months of typical use, reducing MPG enough to measure that. I agree that "high flow" filters like K&N are poor choices for filtering dirt well. The oiling issue is another problem too.

Its best to find a quality paper or micro fiber filter which doesn't require oiling, and change it at the proper interval. Thus Amsoil filters are an ideal choice, they filter very well and should last four years with proper cleaning. That is cheaper usually than any paper filter costs.

 

[FIND]

No, Platinum and Ultra were never a true full synthetic. They were always a group III+. There have been a bunch of discussions about it on www.bobistheoilguy.com. Granted, Group III+ are considered full synthetics by the industry, but I was just pointing out that they are different from the full synthetics offered by Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple and some others. I think the earliest Penzoil synthetics were Group IV/V mixes, but their early synthetics sucked, mostly because they treated them almost the same as they did their conventionals as far as additive packages went, and they were using the same VI improvers. Their newer synthetics are better, but, just not a TRUE full synthetic. I think it was changed about the time Mobil and Castrol got into their thing about labeling, and that was several years ago. I should also note though, the cost of making even group IV and group V synthetics has come down significantly in the last 10 years, which is why Amsoil isn't that much more expensive than regular store synthetics and Royal Purple hasn't increased in price for basically the last 10 years.

As far as paper filters, they aren't a problem if they are changed regularly and you are using a decent quality brand. Under normal conditions, they won't cause a significant reduction in flow within a couple years. I would never recommend using the budget anything when it comes to automotive maintenance. For most people, their car is their most important asset. It is important to always take good care of it since its operation is so closely linked to our abilities to earn a living and engage in the day to day activities that are important to our continued livelihoods.

Really, the Amsoil filters aren't that expensive for a re-usable filter, and I doubt their flow/filtration properties are that different from a quality OEM style paper filter. The fact that they are re-usable is probably an advantage from a cost savings point of view. Either way, they are not going to allow as much dirt/contaminants through as a gauze filter, so they are probably the best trade-off when it comes to re-useable filters.

 

[celly]

Amsoil Signature Series and Ea filter. Nothing finer. 5 quarts. 1 year or 35,000 miles. All I've used in my 5.0 since '05. Well worth it.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a shame about Pennzoil, it's likely I read something which referred to their older oils, though it was just two years ago when I was trying Amsoil for the first time. I'd say that Pennzoil benefited from some bad information, though I only bought it when it was cheaper than the others.

I like the Amsoil air filter personally because I have seen the evidence of cleaner oil with them. I have only used OEM or the normal name brands before, probably 20+ over the years. I have never seen oil that would stay transparent for any length of time in my many cars. Everything else shows good dark oil with typical paper air filters used.

My Lincoln is just the second that I've used an Amsoil air filter in. With synthetic oil and an FL-1A, so far it still looks very nice, for used oil. Regards,

 

[CDW6212R]

Amsoil Signature Series and Ea filter. Nothing finer. 5 quarts. 1 year or 35,000 miles. All I've used in my 5.0 since '05. Well worth it.

Hey Brad, you have an Amsoil air filter too. How has your oil looked over the years since you began using that?

 

[5.0L V8]

I ended up going down to the local AutoZone today after work. Ended up getting a 5quart jug of Mobil-1 10W-30 Fully Synthetic ($37.00). Followed up by a Motorcraft oil filter, as reccomended. ($4.99). They also threw in a STP air filter for free. (My buddy works there). Should I scrap this filter? Or is it worth using until I get a better "paper" style filter? It being thrown in for free, and originally marked as $8.00 on the shelf, i'm a little hesitant of it's quality. This explorer does not ever see dirt roads. Just pavement. Any suggestions?


Also, with that type of oil I bought, what should my new oil change interval be?

Thanks,
-Evan

 

[CDW6212R]

That will work Evan, use the STP filter. That makes the deal similar to what those three would cost at Walmart. The parts stores have some of the highest oil prices, so getting the air filter free helps even that out.

The oil filter can go up to about 5000 miles IMO, that's your real limit. How much can the oil filter hold before letting some oil bypass, 3000 miles is easy to say, 5000 is not too much farther. The FL-820S is not a large filter, so don't go over that if you can help it. For severe duty or very dusty conditions like gravel roads, then you'd need to shorten the intervals.

 

[5.0L V8]

Thanks for the reply man. So anything before 5k sounds good to me.

 

[celly]

Hey Brad, you have an Amsoil air filter too. How has your oil looked over the years since you began using that?

Don, I have an Ea filter on my intake setup. Never had any issues. That reminds me....almost time for my annual oil change.

 

[briwayjones]

And I usually do every 3,000 mile intervals. Will that be too often with Synthetic?

It's too often for conventional oils too. 3000 mile intervals were for back decades ago when the fuel and engines were a lot dirtier. And that knowledge just hasn't gotten wide spread. Probably because places like Jiffy Crooks keep that info. going so people come in every three thousands miles and they get their money. If you look in the owners manual the oil change interval listed will be somewhere around 7,500 miles. I would suggest anything less than 5,000 miles if your engine is operating correctly is just a waste of money.

 

[rickybobby]

I change mine every 2500-3000 miles, but with 260000 miles it gets dirty fast, and i dont like running black oil, no matter how long the manufacturer says to run it

 

[CDW6212R]

I change mine every 2500-3000 miles, but with 260000 miles it gets dirty fast, and i dont like running black oil, no matter how long the manufacturer says to run it

Change your air filter, the black oil is not from the mileage, it's from the low quality air filter. Spend some good money on a great air filter, and then save money by not changing the oil and filter so often.

 

[rickybobby]

Change your air filter, the black oil is not from the mileage, it's from the low quality air filter. Spend some good money on a great air filter, and then save money by not changing the oil and filter so often.

I run a fram air filter, changes once a year weather it needs it or not. I had an amsoil filter on it for a long time and it didnt make a bit of difference. I am gonna chock it up to the high mileage because i also have a good amount of oil making it into the air tube as well (im starting to have to replace the filter after 9 months because of it)

 

[CDW6212R]

There's something else going on with your engine to have oil reaching the filter, or so much that it's noticeable in the inlet hose.

The air filter I had in my car before was malformed, one side had been sucked down some, likely creating a path for raw air to get in.

Have you got any other modifications on the engine, like an air filter on a valve cover, or EGR issues etc?

 

[white_shadow]

i would not waste money with M1 in that motor. just get whatever is on sale at the parts house ( house brand is just fine ) and a motorcraft or P1 filter, change it every 5k until the motor dies.

 

[white_shadow]

It's too often for conventional oils too. 3000 mile intervals were for back decades ago when the fuel and engines were a lot dirtier. And that knowledge just hasn't gotten wide spread. Probably because places like Jiffy Crooks keep that info. going so people come in every three thousands miles and they get their money. If you look in the owners manual the oil change interval listed will be somewhere around 7,500 miles. I would suggest anything less than 5,000 miles if your engine is operating correctly is just a waste of money.

.

 

[budwich]

I run a fram air filter, changes once a year weather it needs it or not. I had an amsoil filter on it for a long time and it didnt make a bit of difference. I am gonna chock it up to the high mileage because i also have a good amount of oil making it into the air tube as well (im starting to have to replace the filter after 9 months because of it)

I think that's the "standard symptom" of blowby.... ring(s) somewhere need replacing or more.

 

[rickybobby]

There's something else going on with your engine to have oil reaching the filter, or so much that it's noticeable in the inlet hose.

The air filter I had in my car before was malformed, one side had been sucked down some, likely creating a path for raw air to get in.

Have you got any other modifications on the engine, like an air filter on a valve cover, or EGR issues etc?

Everything else seems to be in proper order, egr is functioning, gasket is new, fuel rail gasket is new, fresh plugs and wires, no check engine codes except for the downstream o2, which was removed with the cats. there is no air filter on the valve cover, just a hose that runs to the intake tube. I did just swap on a set of valve covers that i suspect are from a 1st gen, but other that that this engine is completely original and never been touched aside from maintenance and the fuel rail gasket. The head gaskets are even original. That being said 260k is a lot of wear on the pistons and rings, and i do notice smoke on start up and when on the gas hard, but not enough to make me desire to rebuild yet

 

[CDW6212R]

I think that's the "standard symptom" of blowby.... ring(s) somewhere need replacing or more.

Everything else seems to be in proper order, egr is functioning, gasket is new, fuel rail gasket is new, fresh plugs and wires, no check engine codes except for the downstream o2, which was removed with the cats. there is no air filter on the valve cover, just a hose that runs to the intake tube. I did just swap on a set of valve covers that i suspect are from a 1st gen, but other that that this engine is completely original and never been touched aside from maintenance and the fuel rail gasket. The head gaskets are even original. That being said 260k is a lot of wear on the pistons and rings, and i do notice smoke on start up and when on the gas hard, but not enough to make me desire to rebuild yet

Yes, I think that's it, the mileage is pushing extra combustion chamber contaminants past the rings and into the oil. Just drive it.

 

[rickybobby]

Yes, I think that's it, the mileage is pushing extra combustion chamber contaminants past the rings and into the oil. Just drive it.

that is the plan, at least until i can afford to build my 351W and C6 the way i want to (gonna push 450HP NA)