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INH's 4.0 rebuild thread

inh

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City, State
Springfield(ish), MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 XLS
Well, since Creager started his thread, ive started thinking about doing a full rebuild on my engine...

Originally I was going to replace the heads (blown head gasket or cracked head), but after reading about how the pushrods and rockers wear really bad, i decided on a full valvetrain replacement. I purchased the comp cams 410 cam, and am waiting to get delta rockers and new pushrods. I still need a source for cheap lifters (ebay is dry right now) and i really really want a new set of heads that are ported and polished, If anyone knows of where to get these please let me know.

Then creagers thread popped up, so im thinking with rebuilding the rest of the engine while its out. Its got nearly 155k on it. No aftre reading this: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/40rebuild.htm i think i want to use the older style pistons, since if i use SOHC pistons the compression ratio will be way to high, but i think with the older style pistons with the smaller dish the lil bump in compression will help. Any ideas?

Also, should i worry about cam bearings? If i go ahead with the full rebuild, do i need to replace them or what? I plan on doing pistons, rings, and main bearings, as well as sleeving the rear seal as is mentioned in that link. Anything else i should do? Im hoping that no boring or honing is required but we wont know till the engine is out.
 



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Alright well after running the numbers I think that by using the 91-94 pistons with the smaller dish in them will put me at an 11:1 compression ratio. I could be a little off as I dont know the actual volume of the cylinder heads, so i had to go about it the long way, but im pretty sure im correct, which is disappointing. Guess I'll be using the pistons im supposed to
 






The cam bearings are pretty cheap, fresh bearings for a fresh cam =)

90TM/93TM + 91-94 style pistons = 9:3:1

90TM/93TM + SOHC pistons = 10:1

95TM/98TM + 91-94 pistons = 10:1

95TM/98TM + SOHC pistons = 11:1

90TM/93TM heads + 95-98 pistons = 8:9:1 compression (need to check on that) this is your best bet if you plan on turbos or a supercharger.

All those numbers I confirmed with BIRD on RPS (Doug904's stage3 head builder)

The 410/422 cam love the 10:1 compression, although it would require 93 octane to be 'streetable,' and you couldnt run any forced induction... although nitrous loves the higher compression also

Not all head castings are the same! I recommend these guys for heads http://www.alabamacylinderhead.com/fordproduct.htm

The stock ford castings are weak around the valve seats and are more prone to cracking. The MAHLE castings are much more resistant to cracking, they are also what alabama cylinder head sells.

The MAHLE castings were what BIRD (again, doug904 ported head builder) used when he built and sold stage three heads.

if you plan on using the newer style heads, use the 98TM heads, they have a better flowing exhaust runners. Both the 95TM and 98TM have the smaller fast burn heart shaped chambers
 






BTW, watch the classified section on www.rangerpowersports.com for ported head and intake deals. Otherwise you will need to find a local hotrod shop to do the port work for you. If you plan on using the 422 cam, you will need dual valve springs and retainers, you will also need your heads machined to fit the dual valve springs. The 410 cam doesnt require it, although it might be a good investment in the long run.

That guy on ebay always comes back with more lifters... i see him with a new set like once a month.
 






Awesome, thank you so much! I should have the 95tm heads, looks like im gonna upgrade to the 98tm's. I was trying to calculate what the new compressoin ratio would be using 95tm heads and 91-94 pistons, but i couldnt find all of the numbers i needed, so with the ones I did have i came out with 11:1 but i guess i was wrong, and im glad i was.

I looked through RPS calssifieds and didnt see anythign for sale, just the ones you snagged :p But i'll keep my eyes open. THe more i think about it the more i want to do a full rebuild, like you. This is gonna be one fun project :D

thanks again Creager!
 






No problem man.

MaximumViolence had 150k miles and simply bolted on ported heads, 422 cam, and supercharger onto the factory short block... i can see why he did

150k miles, your bottom end is probably in pretine condition. Mine with 200k doesnt even 'need' to be rebuilt. But since i plan on SOHC pistons im going all the way. Thats right, i can see the factory hatching marks across the cylinders. Bascially, its ready for another 200k =)

Although you never know, its better to tear into things and replace what needs to be replaced.
 






Yea. I figure, since i gotta pull the engine to do the cam anyways.. that and bein the army,, not much to spend my money on hehe. Im hoping no boring or honing is required but we'll see. plus it'll be nice to hot tank the block and get all the rust out (theres a lot.) The way i drive, a rebuild probably isnt too far in the future but you never know...

oh and hey while im here, any idea why its said to be a bad idea to use the newer style 4.0 pistons? the 98-200 ones? AFAIK they have the same demensions, just the rings are in a little bit diffferent spot, and theyre 50 grams lighter... Reduced weight is usually good. Ah well ill probably just pick up new pistons from rock auto, unless yours are in good shape ;)
 






Well if you remove the pistons, you gotta atleast replace the rings and hone the cylinder. Think of the old cylinders as a cheese grader on the new rings. But dont be surprised if you wont have to bore, it will most likley be within spec.

Using the newer style pistons are bad? hrmm i havent heard that one.

haha you dont want my used pistons. The stock pistons are actually the weak link in the bottom part of the motor. A nice set of Hypereutectic pistons fixes that.
 






Where can i get those pistons? So far ive only found stock replacements.

Also, whats involved in honing a cylinder? Just using a micrometer to measure and one of those spring loaded drill honing attachments to take a few thousandths off? Just trying to get an idea for right now as the auto shop here on base has full engine rebuilding facilites (albeit i get to do all the work :D) so im sure they have whatever is needed to hone them.
 






I think its time i get started with the point of this thread... :p

Parts:
Comp Cams '410' cam
$245.88 CCA-49-410-8 www.summitracing.com
Delta Cam Rockers
~$130 for rockers alone, i think that is without the core charge, so a bit more. www.deltacam.com
Custom length smith bros pushrods
$75 www.pushrods.net
'Rebuilt' Lifters from ebay
$90 www.ebay.com
New heads
$400 http://www.acheinc.com/
Clevite cam bearings
$31.99 SH1441S www.partsamerica.com
Clevite main bearings
$70.99 MS2006P www.partsamerica.com
Clevit rod bearings
$65.94 CB723P www.partsamerica.com
CLoyes Timing set
$78.79 94172SA www.rockauto.com
Microsleeve rear main seal upgrade
$10.39 ms341 www.microsleeve.com
Pistons (for a 91-94 4.0)
$191.94 www.partsamerica.com
Engine Gasket set
$180 #2601699 www.rockauto.com
New IAC
~$75 local auto store
BBK 66mm Throttle Body
$200 www.truckperformance.com

TOTAL: About ~$2385 (man that got expensive fast..) (and thats without machine work...)

hmm i could save myself a lot of money (and a lot of fun too though) by not rebuilding the bottom end...
 






Are you using the stock heads and intake with that cam? This is the first I've heard of the 410. I'm curious if it works fine with a stock head.

-Chris
 






Yea, no need to upgrade to dual valve springs or anything. Its s lot lke the 422 cam but milder.
 






Dual valve springs would defiantly benefit a 410 cam, but it’s not necessary.

The 410 cam allows the intake valve to stay open until just before the moment of overlap, the 422 on the other hand does allow some overlap... although not very much. It is possible to have a custom ground cam that is much more aggressive then the 422; although I remember doug904 stating that an OHV does reach a limit to where it becomes unreliable, ‘a OHV running over 6k rpms simply becomes a waste of time.’
 






yea ive been thinking a lot lately... not sure if i want to deal with dual valve springs and such.. but then again more power is always good... cant decided if i should stick with the 410 or not..
 






410 cam puts ~ 15-17 more hp at the crank from what i understand

422 cam puts ~ 20-22
 






Ah well in that case i'll stick with the 410. More is better, but i dont think the few extra ponies is worth the differences in the cams, ie: smog issues (its a cali truck and may return there one day,) the fact that the 410 is designed for low end while the 422 is speced for power throughout the rpm range, and the headwork required to run the 422.

thanks for that heads up creager :D
 






It's not recommended to run the 422 with an automatic trans.
 






doh, forgot about that too! hehe. thats ok, i probably wont switch to a manual anyways, seeing as how traffic sucks here already and is only gonna get worse, plus my 4r55e does a great job of downshifting when i need it to. Now to get a new speedo gear so it isnt afraid to downshift because its getting the wrong speed info
 






OK, just got off the phone with a local automotive performance machine shop. I was inquiring about porting + polishing my heads, and he said that for what i want, low end torque, it probably wouldnt be best. he recommended getting the usual 3 angle valve grind and other head work done but not necesarily a port and polish. He also said tht for them to port and polish them, it would be about $75/ hour and about 5 hours of work :-/ Not what im looking to spend. But for not quite as much money, they can work on the bowl of the head and do that valve work and he said that'll give me more low end power

edit: called alabama cylinder head. $400 for a pair of complete heads, shipped. Its the aftermarket casting ones, that are cast a lot thicker so they shouldnt crack. Cant wait to get those. Depending on how much my alignment is i may order them saturday or monday depending on when they are open.
 



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What do you guys think about getting the engine rotating asembly balanced? It doesnt look to be too expensive (less than $200 as long as weights dont need to be added) and it can only help performance..
 






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