inh's 5r55e internal thermostat bypass how to

[CDW6212R]

The difference in mileage based on a change in ATF temperature will be unmeasurable, IMO. Go for it, run the vehicle for three or four tanks of gas to check mileage, then alter the running temps of the ATF. Run it for another few tanks of gas, I'd bet you will not see a change.

In theory it does sound logical, but in practice most things are different than the theory. Take coolant temps for example. It is generally believed that higher temps improve efficiency and lower internal engine wear. That's great if it was true, but there is no proof that it does work that way. Actually, lots of people racing have shown noticeable gains in power(times on track), yet there is no change in engine wear. Most wise drag racers run their coolant temps as low as they can get them.

I wish you well Fredness, but you are shooting for typical temperatures, 180*. Over that is bad for ATF, and few vehicles ever have much lower temps(warmed up). I'll do the cold ATF test, if I can get it to run under 140* or 120*, I'll be happy.

 

[Fredness]

http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF7/747.html
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

I'm sure that if there was any improvement in MPG, it would be miniscule at best, but with everything else I'm doing it would add up.

Current set up plan is Trans > Filter > Radiator (top) > Radiator (bottom) > T-Stat > External cooler > Trans

Ideally, the Radiator will keep me cool during 0 MPH loads (stuck in snow/mud), with the back up of having a 180* Thermostatic switch for the electric fan on the output of the cooler.
I'm keeping the internal T-Stat active for now, so I can get good logs on all the temps from each input/output. I may try to compare later...

 

[CDW6212R]

It's great that several people have taken the time to think through the cooling systems of the vehicles to alter them for improvement. I have wanted to for a very long time, but these type of changes typically take a lot of work and/or fabrication/parts, for a minor gain (in theory). It's hard to justify this type of stuff, but I'm sure at the least we are making the fluids cleaner and helping them to last longer. Keep updating us when you can.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Gears Magazine has an article on the internal bypass: http://www.gearsmagazine.com/view.ashx?article=92a8b371-e094-45e7-807a-03f419101583

 

[inh]

Superior appears to have redesigned the Thermostat Bypass plug. The dimensions have all changed (minor), but the I.D. which is now .315" instead of the .105" listed.

Gears Magazine has an article on the internal bypass: http://www.gearsmagazine.com/view.ashx?article=92a8b371-e094-45e7-807a-03f419101583

If the diagrams in that post are accurate, which I'm sure they are, then the ID of the Superior bypass plug shouldn't matter, as it's only purpose is to keep a valve permanently depressed. There's never actually any fluid flowing through or around it.

I just got a CVB valve body, going to find my old Superior thermo-bypass and toss it in before swapping the VB this weekend

 

[inh]

All done! I can confirm that installing it exactly as shown in the pics is the correct way, and TONS of fluid now flows through the cooler. When I started the truck to get fluid back in the cooler lines (i flushed them out) in the couple of seconds it took the truck to shut off once I yelled at my wife to kill it, I lost well over a quart. That's a lot of flow

 

[ivrb]

so at the end which is the brand to get?

 

[KLS232470]

Where in the heck can I find that bypass?

I have spent so many hours trying to locate both the Thermostat as well as that little steel bypass that attaches to it for the '2001 Ford Explorer Sport 4 wheel drive 4.0 Litre. Is the Sport Track the same as the Sport?

You mentioned that Superior makes the bypass. I can't find them, I'm in California. Do you have their number/contact info?

Like your Thread, would really appreciate your help. Thanks.

Ken Sanders in Cali.