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- November 11, 2005
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Wheel studs eventually get worn down over time just like any other part of a vehicle. Sometimes they break off . It's recommended to replace them when they first start to show signs of wear (rust, missing threads, hard to turn wheel lug nuts, etc). Damaged lug nuts could contribute to premature wheel stud damage.
To begin, jack up the side of the vehicle, and remove a wheel. You will see the brake caliper, spindle, rotor, and grease cap. The following photo shows my 1995 Aerostar with a 2WD configuration. The caliper is removed, and supported in place. I have a large "S" hook in the following photo:
The grease cap is removed:
Remove the rotor, wheel bearings, cotter pin, flange, washer, and nut. The rotor is out of the vehicle:
This is a rear view:
The wheel studs are hammered out:
A wheel nut (lug nut) pulls the new studs into the correct position:
A handy tool from Lisle (model # 22800) is used to completely pull the stud into position:
Here's the tool in use:
Use caution when using this tool. Over tightening the nut will cause damage to the nut, stud, and tool. Here's a height comparison of the stud before it's tightened, and when it's in place:
A die is recommended to go over the studs to make sure that the threads are not damaged from over tightening.
Sometimes an old wheel lug nut could leave a trail of particles that get trapped in the threads of the wheel stud. Here's a front view of the rotor with new lug nuts:
Here's a rear view:
Now it's time to finish the job. Clean out the old grease, and install fresh grease. Use anti-squeal on the back of the brake pads. Compress the piston in the caliper, and reinstall the caliper. Grease the caliper bolts, and make sure that there is no grease on the surface of the pads or rotor. Here's a picture of everything in place once again:
Reinstall the wheel with lug nuts, and continue to the next wheel. Keep in mind that the rear studs are different than the front. 4WD studs are usually diffferent than 2WD studs, so mark everything before you start the job.
To begin, jack up the side of the vehicle, and remove a wheel. You will see the brake caliper, spindle, rotor, and grease cap. The following photo shows my 1995 Aerostar with a 2WD configuration. The caliper is removed, and supported in place. I have a large "S" hook in the following photo:
The grease cap is removed:
Remove the rotor, wheel bearings, cotter pin, flange, washer, and nut. The rotor is out of the vehicle:
This is a rear view:
The wheel studs are hammered out:
A wheel nut (lug nut) pulls the new studs into the correct position:
A handy tool from Lisle (model # 22800) is used to completely pull the stud into position:
Here's the tool in use:
Use caution when using this tool. Over tightening the nut will cause damage to the nut, stud, and tool. Here's a height comparison of the stud before it's tightened, and when it's in place:
A die is recommended to go over the studs to make sure that the threads are not damaged from over tightening.
Sometimes an old wheel lug nut could leave a trail of particles that get trapped in the threads of the wheel stud. Here's a front view of the rotor with new lug nuts:
Here's a rear view:
Now it's time to finish the job. Clean out the old grease, and install fresh grease. Use anti-squeal on the back of the brake pads. Compress the piston in the caliper, and reinstall the caliper. Grease the caliper bolts, and make sure that there is no grease on the surface of the pads or rotor. Here's a picture of everything in place once again:
Reinstall the wheel with lug nuts, and continue to the next wheel. Keep in mind that the rear studs are different than the front. 4WD studs are usually diffferent than 2WD studs, so mark everything before you start the job.