Installing Drop Brackets - What Rivets to Cut?

[WickedWindsor]

I need help clearing up exactly where the rivets and bolts are located on the I beam brackets.
Instructions for the lift kits don't specify where they are located. I checked underneath my rig and can't tell for sure yet. I don't want to go grinding on a perfectly removable bolt thinking it was a rivet!

On the Passenger side (under the battery) these are all bolts, no rivets? If so, there are nuts to remove or are these welded nuts to frame and simply remove bolt by bolt head?

On drivers side (under oil pan) these are all rivets? 4 rivets I believe? These are to be ground off or chiseled? From what side is it best to grind off? The rear side of vehicle or front side under crossmember?

I know this all sounds so basic, but I'm always wanting to be prepared for anything because if things can go wrong for me, they will!

Also, with my V8 swap, my oil pan plug is located right in front of the I beam bracket. I may have to raise the tranny mount to raise the oil pan a little.

Thanks,

John

 

[sn0border88]

You did a v8 swap and you dont know the difference between a bolt and a rivet?

Just look on the engine crossmember, Im pretty sure they are on there. But I dont have drop brackets anymore so I cant check. Radius arms should be self explanatory. I think there is 6 per radius arm and 4 per beam bracket.

 

[WickedWindsor]

It's not that I don't know the difference.....I'm just looking to do this the easiest way possible trying to decide which tools I'll have to get in there and what clearance issues I'll have.
BECAUSE I have a 351 in there, I have very limited space to work in. Between the rust on the fasteners, and the difficulty to see them, I wanted some basic info to get me informed before I go cutting away with uncertainty. If no one is willing to give some advice with their experience, then so be it. Like the V8 swap, I'll figure it out on my own.

I thought that other people would have great tips like - "You'll need a sawsall for that one stubborn bolt in behind the passenger side bracket" (for eg.).

 

[Black Goblin]

It's not that I don't know the difference.....I'm just looking to do this the easiest way possible trying to decide which tools I'll have to get in there and what clearance issues I'll have.
BECAUSE I have a 351 in there, I have very limited space to work in. Between the rust on the fasteners, and the difficulty to see them, I wanted some basic info to get me informed before I go cutting away with uncertainty. If no one is willing to give some advice with their experience, then so be it. Like the V8 swap, I'll figure it out on my own.

I thought that other people would have great tips like - "You'll need a sawsall for that one stubborn bolt in behind the passenger side bracket" (for eg.).

I just did the lift on my truck too.....

The only rivets on the drop down bracket are on the bracket that is mounted on the drivers side. You should use an air hammer because a grinder takes way too long. You should also remove them from the front because then you can take a hammer to the bracket and it will pull out the rivets the rest of the way with it once you have the heads off. It takes a bit of force with the hammer hitting it till it comes off.

The bracket on the passenger side is all bolts and all you have to do is soak them with penetrating oil till you break the rust loose if it is real bad otherwise they come off pretty easy. It took me 9.5 hours to do the front end and that was in a shop. I had every tool redily available to me. The holes from the rivets need to be drilled out to a bigger size and it is a bizznitch because of the angle. You end up haveing to use a smaller drill bit and kinda ream it a lil up and down side to side.

If you are putting on new radius arms you need to take out 3 rivits on each side of the cross member and then you will have to find out where the bracket needs to be so the shocks are perfectly verticle and then drill thouse holes too. I am only adding this because I added longer radius arms when I put in my lift. The back only took me just over an hour and it was fairly easy.
If you need anymore help just let me know.

Oh by the way the spring perch studs are a pita to get out. you should get a 1 1/8" wrench and a BFH and just whack the wrench with some one standing on the end of the wrench next to the stud and it will break loose. It has blue lock tight and is at 250flbs. Have fun and good luck.

 

[Black Goblin]

I wish I had my camera when I did this and I would have made an article about this. It would have been really helpfull for ayone else that is trying this out.

 

[WickedWindsor]

Black Goblin,

Thank you, thank you, this is exactly the response I was hoping for. I do have an air chisel so I'll try that first. I'll also soak those nasty bolts too.

I did the 2" coil lift two weeks ago and those coil retainer nuts were on there! I ended up putting extensions on my impact gun with a 1 1/8" socket and went in through the top of the coil bucket. I also had to heat the nut to get it to break loose from the very rusty threads. I first tried a breaker bar on it - that wasn't going to work for me!

Thanks again

 

[Black Goblin]

Black Goblin,

Thank you, thank you, this is exactly the response I was hoping for. I do have an air chisel so I'll try that first. I'll also soak those nasty bolts too.

I did the 2" coil lift two weeks ago and those coil retainer nuts were on there! I ended up putting extensions on my impact gun with a 1 1/8" socket and went in through the top of the coil bucket. I also had to heat the nut to get it to break loose from the very rusty threads. I first tried a breaker bar on it - that wasn't going to work for me!

Thanks again

Your very welcome. I am glad I could help. I just went out and did it myself without asking and found more rivets than I was expecting lol. Have fun.

 

[sn0border88]

a torch may be your friend on some of the crossmember rivets then. I did the lift a year ago so I dont remember much but do a search as I did a brief writeup and its floating around somewhere.

 

[Minivek]

the flame wrench is the way to go for those crossmember rivets, it takes about a minute to do, and you don't mangle the crossmember (but do be carefull not to torch the crossmember itself!!!)