Intake "full" of oil

[ptf18]

Fellows: I removed the throttle (?) body from the manifold of my 4.0l V6 in order to gain ez access to the upper radiator hose connection at the thermostat housing.

Looking into the manifold I saw that I had "liquid" sitting in the bottom of the manifold. Turns out to be oil.... and to me alot of it. Maybe a pool 1/4" deep.

I used rags and towels to remove this oil but I'm concerned.

The engine runs fine and I dont notice it "burning" oil. Oil level stays up although I do have a oil leak which I thought was/is the oil filter adapter.

I'm thinking that the PCV valve is allowing this to pass into the intake system. I've got a new valve (Ford) and new hoses (the ones that usually deteriorate) which I intended to replace at a later date.

Thoughts on the source of this oil? Engine has around 85K on it.

 

[koda2000]

Mine Job 2 SOHC intake was the same way. 185k on the original PCV valve and maintenance was severely neglected by the PO. I changed the PCV valve and I've not rechecked to see if the oil has returned. It probably has. Mine runs fine, never smokes and hardly uses any oil between oil changes so I'm not worried about it. The only other place for the engine to suck in oil would be the valve seals, but you'll usually see smoke if they're leaking.

 

[ptf18]

Koda2000 Thanks for the "reassurance". This "project" started out as a oil filter adapter leak fix (something I've put off since January......2017). I got the inner fender shield out and cleaned the heck out of every knok and cranny. Took the S/T out for 2 short 5 mile drives, got home.....no oil anywhere to be found.....

I was looking over the engine and noticed the upper radiator hose leaking at the radiator. THEN.... I found the plastic fan hub cracked.

Ordered and received MotorCraft hoses (upper and lower) and a MC fan. While installing those items I noticed the intake oil "pool'. I had the MC pcv and Dorman rubber elbows which I had been planning to change at the next oil change..... got those items installed.

Got everything back together, the engine started right up and no COOLANT leaks to be found. I let the engine cool off to recheck the coolant level in the radiator and thought I'ld check for oil leaks......

Found oil DRIPPING off the engine....... source..... the adapter.......

I geuss I'll start on that "project" in the AM.

I've hashed and rehashed this adapter project on this forum for a year now..... The Ford TSB that's out said to replace the actual metal adapter housing because of "porosity".

What's your thoughts on replacing it? The adapter is a '02. I have NO qualms about buying a new MC one but is it necessary? The TSB makes it sound like oil is permeating thru the aluminum.

I found another post about a fellow who did the same work on his S/T as I'm going to do. He mentions that the o-ring grooves are poorly made and lead to cut o-rings. Apparently the grooves(s) are not chamfered...which he "corrected" after having to do his leak repair on the same adapter over again.

 

[koda2000]

IDK, blaming "aluminum porosity" sounds like a cop-out to me. Seems more likely to be an O-ring issue. I'd take it off and examine the part and only replace it if I found something wrong with it. I always grease new O-rings with Vaseline to make sure they seat properly.

My late production '01 ST was leaking oil from the valve cover gaskets pretty badly when I first got it, always left a fist-sized puddle in my garage overnight. I cleaned the heck out of the motor to find exactly where it was leaking from. I then replaced both valve cover gaskets, the intake O-rings and the front TC tensioner, installing the 00M12 kit with the oil restrictor. It's not 100% leak free now, but it's much improved. Now it just leaves a dime sized spot on the driveway (not a puddle). It seems to be leaking somewhere from the right rear of the engine, but I've never bothered to chase it any further. Perhaps this spring I'll degrease everything again and see exactly where it still leaks from. Who knows, it might even be the oil filter adapter O-ring, but at this point I think I can live with the now small leak. You gotta expect a 17 year old vehicle with 200K on it to leak a little something. All-in-all its now pretty tight.

 

[ptf18]

Koda2000. Its getting late but I wanted to post you the "latest"...... Just ran the engine before calling it quits for the night. Wanted to do a double check on the coolant system......

Found the "real" source of the coolant leak....... The plastic "bib" that is the connection "tube" that the upper hose attaches to has 2 very small cracks in the radius of where they go into the body of the radiator. Seems that once everything got HOT and I ran up the rpm the leaks.....appeared.

New radiator time.

Any suggestions? The transmission cooler lines are the "screw in" type. I dont think I have to remove the fan/clutch assembly.

Its a 16 y.o. vehicle...that the wife bought new and loves....almost as much as she does the guy that works on it. .... I think a OEM is about $450....gulp...maybe time for a new....wife????

 

[koda2000]

If the cracks are very tiny, you might be able to squeeze some more life out of your radiator by putting in a bottle of K-Seal, but there's no guaranty it will stop that sort of leak. I've had excellent results with that product, except for rad end-tank seal leaks. It's a really good product that will not clog your cooling system or heater core.

You don't have to remove the fan clutch to change the radiator. Just take the shroud loose (2 bolts and pull upward), 2 bolts and the hoses and the trans line. The trans lines come off pretty easily as they use O-ring seals and aren't super tight, but use two wrenches to not break the seal for the trans oil cooler tank inside the rad. Almost no trans fluid should spill (1/2 ounce maybe) Changing a radiator on a SOHC is super easy. It's the V8's that a pain. If your coolant is fairly new, drain it into a clean container and reuse it. You will spill some from the lower hose though.

Tip 1: Remove the plastic air-diverter box from under the rad to get better access to the rad drain valve and lower hose clamp (four 10mm bolts and pull down).

Tip 2: Be ready for a bath when you remove the lower rad hose. You will make a huge mess. It seems like draining the rad only does the passenger side tank.