Intake Manifold Gaskets

[MatthewAlan8]

So I've decided that I will try to salvage the Explorer that I have run into the ground. The decision is helped by the fact that I realized I do in fact have a friend that is handy with motor vehicles! The mechanic told me that I had a large leak in the intake manifold gasket and that was causing my coolant loss. I've used stop leak 2 times (the liquid kind) and recently the AC has stopped working. Wondering if I have clogged the radiator.

I'm looking for a good place online to purchase the intake manifold gaskets at a good cost and anything else I may need to install them. Also a good place to purchase a radiator if you guys think that could be why my AC isn't working.

Thanks for any advice you would have for me!

 

[Rudy602]

Is your 4.0 an OHV or a SOHC? I thought you previously said it was a SOHC. While you may need new intake gaskets if you have a SOHC, they have less than nothing to do with your loss of antifreeze. If you have an OHV, then at least it's a possibility. Ford recognized the defective intake gaskets on the SOHC [that only cause air leaks] and the timing chain tensioners and combined them in a kit referred to as 00M12. Do some research on this site - lots of good info and pics - or google it. If your vehicle isn't having symptoms of rough idle when cold or the timing chain death rattle I'd deal with that overheating issue which again has nothing to do with the intake gaskets on a SOHC. If you have an OHV, that's another story.

 

[Rudy602]

What to do?

Someone told me - When you have a lot of variables and aren't sure where to begin, start with something you are sure of and take it from there. You know you need a radiator. A thermostat and gasket are cheap. You may want to flush the cooling system before you put the new radiator in so you dont gunk it up. These are all things you can do yourself or with the help of a friend. Do the research and follow the instructions - ask questions - it's do-able.

 

[bantonich]

tip: avoid any "stop leak" products

in your case, it sounds like it was not needed.
but Rudy602 is right, flush your cooling system before you spend a ton of money.
some people will tell you to buy OEM intake manifold gaskets, some will say fel-pro is ok.
the fel-pro gaskets worked fine on my intake manifold. Best bet is to take off the manifold and remove the gaskets so you know what they look like. Then head to the parts store for a replacement. How many times have people gone into the parts store, told the clerk what they need...... then they get home and its the wrong part..........

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Thanks for the responses you two. So before I do anything else, I should have the cooling system flushed?

You are correct in your memory that I have an SOHC, Rudy602. The mechanic I went to seemed shady to me (if you look though my posts you'll see that others agreed with me) and he was the one that told me that my intake manifold gasket had a large leak and that was causing the loss of coolant. Is this something that he was just speaking out of his butt about to try and charge me a bunch of money? I know there is something because I do lose a lot of coolant (which is why I started using the Stop Leak). Should I be looking at something else for my coolant loss? It's very obvious when the Stop Leak was not used that I was leaking coolant because I could see it drip, but could not tell where it was coming from.

In the past, I spent about $400 to have my radiator replaced (don't remember if other work was done on it as well) but that is something that I'm certain me and my friend can take care of now. Is there a radiator out there that I could purchase at a good price but is not cheap? I remember seeing recently a thread about one purchased on ebay.

Thanks for your help on my issues!

 

[01EXP5.0]

Apx where was the drip? What part of the engine was it nearest? Also some parts stores will allow you to rent or borrow tools a coolant system pressure tester comes in handy to pressurize the system without the engine running so you can look for the leak without the fan blowing coolant everywhere.

 

[Rudy602]

bantonich is correct - no stop leak - unless you're in the middle of the desert - and then only as a last resort. If you didn't get the lifetime warranty on the last radiator, you might want to think about it this time, those replacements don't last long. Some replacements are only guaranteed against leaking, not the rotting out of all the fins so it no longer functions when it's hot. Don't get the bargain one, it probably isn't a bargain. rockauto.com has about the best prices on parts, generally they have different qualities to choose from. Often the local parts store or chain can come close when you figure shipping and hassles. Like I said, If you know you need a radiator, why start with the intake gaskets? Maybe your radiator can be fixed, but probably not if it's a 4 yr old replacement. Maybe stuff lasts longer out there but not around here. You may want to try and fix your radiator temporarily with some epoxy if its the tanks or some solder if its the core and change the thermostat just to see if that stops your overheating. If it's not overheating and not leaking, and you still have coolant loss, it's probably leaking into the combustion chamber via head gasket or a crack in the head or block. Unless you're "lucky" and only need a head gasket, it's gonna get real involved and real expensive in a hurry. if you're not prepared to spend that kind of money on it, no sense buying a new radiator. Read up on flushing and refilling your cooling system so you get all the air out so you don't get an "air lock" Find those leaks.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

I'm sorry for the delay in my response, a lot to do at work before the holiday weekend. The leak appeared to drip on the passenger side towards the middle, near the front of the engine.

What can I do to find the leak? Should I flush the cooling system and then just run water through it? Maybe I could take photos where it's leaking and get your opinions.

When I start my car, there's a metallic sound in the engine. Not really a knock or a ping, but maybe a rattle? Definitely metallic sounding.

 

[Rudy602]

I'd take 01EXP5.0's advice and get the pressure tester for the radiator. After you refill your cooling system [water is ok untill it's fixed] you screw this thing on in place of the cap and pump it up [unless they have some newer version that's nuclear powered] This should produce your leak without the scalding hot coolant or rotating fan. Granted there's a maze under there but chances are it's a hose or the water pump itself. Hoses are cheap so you may want to change some that aren't leaking [if they're original or look questionable] while you're in there. flushing is a good idea.

 

[MatthewAlan8]

Thanks for that idea, will be trying it this weekend as those things seem to be pretty inexpensive.