irregular rotor wear. NeeD help

[97sprt4x4]

This weekend I went wheeling In the ex. And after I got done I noticed a grinding. Noise. I didn't think anything of it cus I had just been axle deep in mud. But I was at work the other day and was checking my car over and I noticed that my drivers side rear rotor is warped horridly because my pad is gone. Now my major problem is this same thing happened 6 months ago it was the one rotor and all the others were fine. What's causing that one set to wear so much faster?

Thanks
Justin

 

[jmkjr72]

you say one rotor is warped and it was warped 6 months ago

my first question is did you replace the rotor or turn it if you turn a warped rotor it will warp easier then befor and some cheap rotors tend to warp easily

but i would look and see if the caliper is draging warping is normaly cause by over heating the rotor
also double check the parking brake isnt draging on that one wheel

 

[96eb96]

This weekend I went wheeling In the ex. And after I got done I noticed a grinding. Noise. I didn't think anything of it cus I had just been axle deep in mud. But I was at work the other day and was checking my car over and I noticed that my drivers side rear rotor is warped horridly because my pad is gone. Now my major problem is this same thing happened 6 months ago it was the one rotor and all the others were fine. What's causing that one set to wear so much faster?

Thanks
Justin

Inner or outer pad? Check that the cailper slide pins (they have rubber booties on them) are not torn, are lubricated and slide easily in and out. If they don't you may have to relube them or repair the boot. If they are really siezed you need a new caliper.

 

[97sprt4x4]

a better word for it i gues would have been gouged, as you run your finger from the inside of the disc out, it goes up and down on the rotor. and as far as inside and outside i can only tell the outside because of whatever is on the other side the rotor. dust shield? I didn't turn or resurface the rotor last time, i got all new ones, all 4. and this same one has done the same thing, the pad wore to the plate and gouged the rotor. like i said it didn't occur to me that it was the screech things in teh break pad because i had just been mudding so i thought it was mudd or sticks or something near the breaks. So you guys think it's a caliper?

 

[96eb96]

a better word for it i gues would have been gouged, as you run your finger from the inside of the disc out, it goes up and down on the rotor. and as far as inside and outside i can only tell the outside because of whatever is on the other side the rotor. dust shield? I didn't turn or resurface the rotor last time, i got all new ones, all 4. and this same one has done the same thing, the pad wore to the plate and gouged the rotor. like i said it didn't occur to me that it was the screech things in teh break pad because i had just been mudding so i thought it was mudd or sticks or something near the breaks. So you guys think it's a caliper?

yeah, its pretty simple. Fluid squeezes a piston. Something keeps it from retracting. Either the piston is stuck(how hard is it to compress?) or the pins corroded. The outer pad is leading me to believe you have corroded pins. Pull the caliper, See if the metal pins in the rubber boots slides easily. If it don't take off the rubber boots and report back. Use synthetic brake grease to repair.

I believe you can service that assembly, but for $35 bucks at pepboys is just probably worth to get a whole reman caliper.

The other (unlikely) possibility is a collapsed brake hose holding the caliper.

 

[97sprt4x4]

The only problem is I'm not at home currently I'm back at college till the 19th but I think I'm leaning toward getting a remand caliper and drilled and slotted rotors with at least semi metalic pads ... Unfortunately this sets back my lift due to lack of funds

 

[96eb96]

The only problem is I'm not at home currently I'm back at college till the 19th but I think I'm leaning toward getting a remand caliper and drilled and slotted rotors with at least semi metalic pads ... Unfortunately this sets back my lift due to lack of funds

drilled and slotted is a waste for the rear for our trucks IMHO. That would be strictly for looks.

 

[97sprt4x4]

I'm getting all 4 rotors because i don't want to have to deal with them being different quality because i'm almost positive the rotors on the truck are as low a quality as you could buy so i i will be buying F + R for cheaper then it would be to get it worked on at a shop.

However thank you for your thoughts and opinions. but one thing that i would like clarification on, since i'm getting a new caliper, what was that collapsed break line you were talking about? that way i can know the problem is not with that and changing out the caliper will solve the issue.
Thanks
Justin

 

[96eb96]

I'm getting all 4 rotors because i don't want to have to deal with them being different quality because i'm almost positive the rotors on the truck are as low a quality as you could buy so i i will be buying F + R for cheaper then it would be to get it worked on at a shop.

However thank you for your thoughts and opinions. but one thing that i would like clarification on, since i'm getting a new caliper, what was that collapsed break line you were talking about? that way i can know the problem is not with that and changing out the caliper will solve the issue.
Thanks
Justin

The Flexible , 2 part, rubber hose that goes from the steel brake line to your caliper. Good idea to change those whenever you have a bad caliper. Shop around in the parts stores, advance has them for under $20 bucks.

The only issue here is the steel brake line corrosion and the flare nut seized to the line. BTW you should use a flare wrench on that nut.

The bolt that retains the hose to the body is a PITA too, ended up drilling it out and replacing it with nut and bolt (not a big deal).

In that case,if you can't remove the flare nut due to seizure on the line, take it or leave my advice -examine for severe corrosion and replace the entire steel line to the ABS unit. A few weeks ago mine leaked from corrosion and I lost rear brakes.

 

[97sprt4x4]

that sounds like it must have been scary as hell hope that it all works out. Thanks for your help

 

[96eb96]

that sounds like it must have been scary as hell hope that it all works out. Thanks for your help

It was, but you do have the fronts if you push the pedal to the floor. Lucky it happened very close to home. Losing the fronts is scarier.

I replaced every line in the truck with non corroding AGS Polyarmour line. Parts of the lines crumbled in my hands . If you look on youtube there are videos to change lines in an ex.

The exes have spring jackets on the brake lines, they are supposed to protect from rocks but actually accelerate rustout. After a decade of rpadsalt they are all just waiting to leak. 4X4 vehicles are usually used in winter in those conditions, so it is a concern. People don't realize the thin line there is on these things.

I urge everyone with rust on the lines to change them as soon as possible. There are a few cases on the board where people lost front or rears.

Take care...

 

[97sprt4x4]

I purchased my rotors, now i just need the left rear caliper and the brake pads. but i've been reading up on the replacement of the rotors, and it seems that the rear ones are a ***** and a half to get off. Do you think that because they were replaced a between 6-12 months ago, that i will be having a problem with the rear brake rotors? i live in jersey but only drive the truck from may-aug/dec-feb since i'm at college