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It's alive!

Scout Az

Member
Joined
November 5, 2008
Messages
35
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0
City, State
Tempe Az
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer Sport
Hello all. I've been a member here for a while now. I joined when I bought a 94 sport last year. I made the purchase in hopes of making it a hunting rig. Well everything didn’t turn out as I had hoped. My wife lost her job and everything was down hill from there. So the ex just sat for about a year. I know what a waste. Getting back on my feet now and worked on it this weekend. It has 116000 miles on it and this is what I did this weekend. I would not call myself mechanically inclined so if I missed anything or I need to check something please let me know.

Changed plugs and plug wires.

Oil and filter changed.

Air filter changed.

Siphoned out all the bad gas and put some 91 in with a fuel system cleaner.

PCV valve changed.

She started right up and I let it run for about 45 minutes. I didn't drive anywhere but she sounded very smooth. I also purchased a fuel filter that I will be putting on as soon as I have some free time as well as flushing the old coolant. It still needs some radius arm bushings and other minor things but at least it’s running now. :D
 



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glad it runs, good luck
 






Sounds like you are doing fairly well to me, As well as what you mentioned, I change all the fluids when i get another vehicle.

Since the truck just turned over 100,000 miles, I would change the diff and tranny fluids with synthetics and make sure the seals are good, replace if needed.

I like the flush out the brake fluid too and go through the brakes while I'm in there. Use DOT 3 or 4 fluid. The seals are not designed for DOT 5 fluid and they will leak.

I also flush the cooling system and replace the thermostat. These trucks are fairly sensitive to over-heating. If it does, they almost always warp the heads.
 






Also look around and find a can of BG 44K and add that to a full tank of gas once you have it on the road and are driving it.I have never found anything that will clean injectors like this.

Cost's about $25 a can but only needs to be done 2X a year,you won't regret it.:D
 






Nice that it came to life for you.

The rear Gear oil at 100K miles is a good idea.
See how the Brake calipers behave. Sitting that long without being exercised is tough on Calipers.
If you are changing the will have rust past the normal pedal travel, you don't want to screw up the Master while trying to do something nice like replace the Fluid.
 






Thanks for the replies! I will defiantly look into the rest of the fluids and the brakes.

I’m also looking into lifting it about 2inchs and put on some bigger tires soon.
 






Thanks for the replies! I will defiantly look into the rest of the fluids and the brakes.

I’m also looking into lifting it about 2inchs and put on some bigger tires soon.

Definately make sure your brakes are good then. The bigger tires will require significantly more brake effort and strain on the components. Not earth shattering, but more.
 






Will do thank you!

Last night I ran it around the block a few times. The temp on the gauge was between the A and the L on the word normal. Seems a little warm but anyways when I go home turned it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start. I let it sit for about an hour and it fired right up. Any ideas as to why? Is it just hot?? :scratch:
 






Will do thank you!

Last night I ran it around the block a few times. The temp on the gauge was between the A and the L on the word normal. Seems a little warm but anyways when I go home turned it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start. I let it sit for about an hour and it fired right up. Any ideas as to why? Is it just hot?? :scratch:


A bit hot for the First Gen. they normally run between the "O" and the "R" in 'Normal'.

Did it Crank slow when it wouldn't Start and was hot?
Did it just Crank or did it give you any signs that it tried to Fire?
 






A bit hot for the First Gen. they normally run between the "O" and the "R" in 'Normal'.

Did it Crank slow when it wouldn't Start and was hot?
Did it just Crank or did it give you any signs that it tried to Fire?

It sounded like a normal crank but it would not turn over.

It just cranked. :scratch:
 






With all Fuel Injector cars, I always turn the Key to the RUN position and listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds to pressure up the system, THEN I turn it a bit more for the Starter to engage.
I was going to ask you if you heard the Pump run when it was hot , but realized many people do not do tis procedure.
 






That's a good idea. I'll have to get used to doing that.

Well this weekend I'll work on it some more in my free time. I'm sure I'll have some questions by Monday.

Again thanks for the replies. :thumbsup:
 






keep the questions coming! thats what we are here for.
 






Alright... I had some time to work on the Ex this weekend. I did a radiator flush and also cleaned up the hoses. Pulled the radiator and cleaned that out really well too. I couldn't believe the crud that kept coming out. It now runs below the N in NORMAL. Once in a while it will jump up to the N for a brief second until the stat opens and then the gauge returns to below the N. :D

Not bad for being in Az. Now if I can just get that A/C working. :cool:
 






Well, that's a great thing... but what about your other problem? does it start up again after running a long time?
 






Well, that's a great thing... but what about your other problem? does it start up again after running a long time?

I didn't have a chance to run it around as much as I would have liked too this weekend. But I did manage to put 10 miles on it and it started right back up no problems. I'm still a little puzzled as to why it wouldn't start last week. If the problem continues I'll look at other possibilities. Maybe something is going bad I don't know. I'm just taking it as it comes and fixing whatever I can when I have the spare time and money.
 






Could have been a heat issue. Keep an eye on it and let us know.
 






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