It's gotta be there...

[overtherainbow]

As a new 1993 Explorer owner, I'm having issues regarding my brake lights, turn signals and 4 way fuses blowing as soon as I replace them. I have chk'd the wiring head to toe, replaced brake switch, replaced fuse panel flasher, even had my chk'ing checked by two others. I AIN'T FINDING THE SHORT BUT IT's GOTTA BE THERE SOMEWHERE. I even hired a mobile mechanic who's solution was to replace the alternator and the pulley tensioner. He also said my fuse panel was burnt...it wasn't. I'd already spent $300...and my gut said to stop him right there before he emptied my bank acct. So, now Im back to trying to fix it myself. I'll listen to anyone's suggestions and be double thankful for anyone able to help me solve this. There are a couple things I have questions about. 1. Does the wiring to my rear lights run under the car, under the running boards or thru the door? 2. Is there a 2nd flasher or relay that affects these 3 items, either under the dash or under the hood that could be bad? 3. If water leak is my problem, where would I look 1st and would it blow the fuses? And 4th, regarding my signal switch. I'm only showing power to one side. Granted one would think its bad but if fuses are blown wouldn't that affect it's working correctly. After my experience with the mobile mech. I'm scared to take it to another shop for fear I'll need to sell my house to pay the bill. Where do I go from here? Thanks, Cheryl

 

[Josh P]

Get an EVTM for your year explorer off ebay, it has wiring diagrams. The turn signal fuse is on an ignition controlled circuit, should only be hot when the key is turned to the run position. Does that fuse blow with the ignition turned off?

 

[shucker1]

All wiring runs inside the body along the left or right rocker panels under the carpet.

Like Josh P said. If the fuse blows as soon as the ignition is turned on the problem could be in the control on the column.
.

 

[Centaurious]

First you say you've checked everything, then you ask where the wires run to the back. This tells me you haven't checked very much of the wiring harness.

First Thing! Look for any signs that something is changed from stock. If it looks like there may have been damage to the front left side in the past, this is a clue. If the stock radio has been changed this is a clue. What you have is a dead short. These are caused by something that has changed. Maybe a too-long screw in the wrong place, or a grommet has failed and the harness is rubbed through and shorted. Sometimes accident damage leaves a sharp edge that cuts into the wires. I have found that most Parts that fail cause an open circuit rather than a short, but it can happen.

One trick is to replace the fuse that blows with a pizeo buzzer from radio shack. It will buzz away until you accidentally un-short the problem. A test light will work but someone will have to watch it to see when it goes out.

Good Luck

 

[larrydd999]

X2 on Centaurious' suggestions. The buzzer (Radio Shack? - you still have one in your area?) is a very good idea because then you can shake, jerk, disconnect, etc. the various harnesses and connections until the buzzer quits. Incidentally, don't overlook the bulbs and their sockets - bulbs can short and so can their sockets. (I once knew a guy that got so frustrated with trying to locate a grounded connection in a vehicle that he kept upsizing the fuse until something smoked. No, it didn't locate the problem but he ended up replacing the harness which did solve the problem.)

 

[shucker1]

(I once knew a guy that got so frustrated with trying to locate a grounded connection in a vehicle that he kept upsizing the fuse until something smoked. No, it didn't locate the problem but he ended up replacing the harness which did solve the problem.)

Radical but effective I guess...

 

[uberninja]

I won't claim to know the differences between the 93 and my 94, but I had something similar happen to me. I turned on my 12v compressor in the cabin and tapped the brakes once by accident. Blew out what I thought was one fuse for brake lights and dash lights. Try checking the whole fuse box one by one before turning everything back on again. I can't rightly explain why, but I blew out two fuses simultaneously. Only once I slowed down and checked the entire wiring diagram did I find out it was two fuses (I blew the same fuse multiple times after replacing it multiple times, even considered replacing the flasher). Zero problems since.

If nothing else, make sure to take your time and think it through. It goes without saying, but everyone could use a reminder now and again. Best of luck.

 

[shucker1]

That's what this forum is for.

Experience and opinions.

No such thing as a bad suggestion my friend.

 

[overtherainbow]

First you say you've checked everything, then you ask where the wires run to the back. This tells me you haven't checked very much of the wiring harness.

First Thing! Look for any signs that something is changed from stock. If it looks like there may have been damage to the front left side in the past, this is a clue. If the stock radio has been changed this is a clue. What you have is a dead short. These are caused by something that has changed. Maybe a too-long screw in the wrong place, or a grommet has failed and the harness is rubbed through and shorted. Sometimes accident damage leaves a sharp edge that cuts into the wires. I have found that most Parts that fail cause an open circuit rather than a short, but it can happen.

One trick is to replace the fuse that blows with a pizeo buzzer from radio shack. It will buzz away until you accidentally un-short the problem. A test light will work but someone will have to watch it to see when it goes out.

Good Luck

Thank you so much! Your response was like a breath of fresh air. I still haven't found my problem but I will. The more I look for it the more I learn about my auto's electrical side and that learning has to eventually lead to an answer or 2+2 can't be 4. You've given me 3 areas to look. Prior to buying this rig, the brake booster and master cylinder had just been replaced. After buying rotor, caliper and new shoes on pass. side and during that process a jack stand tipped and car fell hitting rotor, dust cover and running board area on drivers side. (Was not my doing!) Common sense says to look, like you said, at areas that have been messed with. I'll let ya know what I find. My main plan, after checking one more time, is to buy and replace the turn signal switch. Replace fuses and see if that fixes it. I'm on my knees praying it does. IF NOT: I'm buying myself a super dooper "short finder" that a newby like me can understand and use. And after that...not there yet so don't have a clue. Thanks to you again and to others for taking the time to try to help.

 

[overtherainbow]

I won't claim to know the differences between the 93 and my 94, but I had something similar happen to me. I turned on my 12v compressor in the cabin and tapped the brakes once by accident. Blew out what I thought was one fuse for brake lights and dash lights. Try checking the whole fuse box one by one before turning everything back on again. I can't rightly explain why, but I blew out two fuses simultaneously. Only once I slowed down and checked the entire wiring diagram did I find out it was two fuses (I blew the same fuse multiple times after replacing it multiple times, even considered replacing the flasher). Zero problems since.

If nothing else, make sure to take your time and think it through. It goes without saying, but everyone could use a reminder now and again. Best of luck.

Thank you for the support. Believe me it helps the frustration to know one isn't the only trying to figure something like this out. I get really emotional when I don't understand how certain things work well enough to fig. out how to fix em and this auto electrical problem is ...I'm hell bent on fig.this out. I think I finally understand how to use a test light and I'm going over my rig yet again. One question. Is the turn signal switch something one should buy new or can one use a used one? And should I also replace the connectors when I replace the switch?

 

[boominXplorer]

Double check there is no "trailer wiring" behind the rear bumper. If so I would remove it and retest. Like everyone else said, look for something previously messed with.

 

[shucker1]

If I were you I would replace the switch as new.
Some thing used would have just as much wear on it.
Connectors should come with the new switch.

Perhaps not though, because some places I travel I notice that drivers don't use turn signals....
I doubt they even know what that is for.
They do know what the button in the middle of the steering wheel does though!

 

[Josh P]

If I were you I would replace the switch as new.
Some thing used would have just as much wear on it.
Connectors should come with the new switch.

Perhaps not though, because some places I travel I notice that drivers don't use turn signals....
I doubt they even know what that is for.
They do know what the button in the middle of the steering wheel does though!

Sometimes I see a sticker saying to watch for finger cause that button is broke.

 

[overtherainbow]

If I were you I would replace the switch as new.
Some thing used would have just as much wear on it.
Connectors should come with the new switch.

Perhaps not though, because some places I travel I notice that drivers don't use turn signals....
I doubt they even know what that is for.
They do know what the button in the middle of the steering wheel does though!

Great answer. Still chuckling. But I do have an update on this. I finally humbly handed my rig over to Grumpy, (not trying to be funny...that's his "mechanic" name). He found a burnt head light switch, 2 grounds not hooked up, wiring under the dash wired wrong, (for I think the amp under back seat) the passenger side wiring to the lights was redone, another new flasher, a new battery to replace one with a dead cell, plastic lenses on the back are new. He went through my car from head to toe, 15 hrs and gave me the parts at his cost. I PROMISE I WON'T BE THE ONE NOT USING THEM. LOL. I love having brake lights, turn signals and flashers. They cost me about $500, but it's worth every penny...He also told me the motor and tranny were good, which is worth a lot more! I took my truck to him and looked around.,He had 3 Explorers of his own. All 1st generation. All in great condition. Thank you Grumpy and thanks to the forum.

 

[overtherainbow]

Great answer. Still chuckling. But I do have an update on this. I finally humbly handed my rig over to Grumpy, (not trying to be funny...that's his "mechanic" name). He found a burnt head light switch, 2 grounds not hooked up, wiring under the dash wired wrong, (for I think the amp under back seat) the passenger side wiring to the lights was redone, another new flasher, a new battery to replace one with a dead cell, plastic lenses on the back are new. He went through my car from head to toe, 15 hrs and gave me the parts at his cost. I PROMISE I WON'T BE THE ONE NOT USING THEM. LOL. I love having brake lights, turn signals and flashers. They cost me about $500, but it's worth every penny...He also told me the motor and tranny were good, which is worth a lot more! I took my truck to him and looked around.,He had 3 Explorers of his own. All 1st generation. All in great condition. Thank you Grumpy and thanks to the forum.

Oh and to let you know, I did end up buying new. Hadn't seen your answer, but it made little sense to buy used for a switch. They aren't cheap but there's alot of wires in a turn signal switch, lots to go bad...so I agree def. get new.

 

[larrydd999]

Since you're in Gig Harbor and we're in Port Angeles I'm almost tempted to ask for your 'Grumpy' mechanic's name. However, we also have an excellent shop nearby (in Sequim) and I've been very satisfied with their work, doing things that I can't do - yet. No shame in taking your Gen1 to a pro, sometimes that's the only sensible solution.

 

[overtherainbow]

Since you're in Gig Harbor and we're in Port Angeles I'm almost tempted to ask for your 'Grumpy' mechanic's name. However, we also have an excellent shop nearby (in Sequim) and I've been very satisfied with their work, doing things that I can't do - yet. No shame in taking your Gen1 to a pro, sometimes that's the only sensible solution.

It was in my case. I met Mr. Baihl at O'Reily's in Port Orchard, there by Safeway. He told me he normally only works on rods and race cars but he has a thing for Explorers. He calls his business Grumpy's Rod...he's probably the best mechanic I've ever had work on one of my cars. And he's honest and fair, which to me is worth a lot more. It took him awhile to fix it but as soon as it was fixed he called me. I know his charges were beyond fair and he did lots of extra, but he is grumpy. I called to chk on the progress and I was "pestering". I know he'll help you. He's booked out about a month but he's worth waiting for.Onery as heck, but he's pretty close to the best. He's also on Facebook.

 

[overtherainbow]

Since you're in Gig Harbor and we're in Port Angeles I'm almost tempted to ask for your 'Grumpy' mechanic's name. However, we also have an excellent shop nearby (in Sequim) and I've been very satisfied with their work, doing things that I can't do - yet. No shame in taking your Gen1 to a pro, sometimes that's the only sensible solution.

You know what? I want to thank you for the heads up on the place in Sequim. If we'd go by recommendations non of us would be taking our cars to smucks who say it's a cat. converter when it's really a broken sparkplug. True story. It was my car. Spent almost $400 and had to take it back. Still shuttered violently. It was a broken sparkplug. But, I had a new catallytic converter and a new plug...only needed a new plug. That was when I started trying to fix my cars myself.

 

[larrydd999]

I do understand. I've probably taken our vehicles to most of the local shops at one time or another, and been disappointed by them sooner or later (usually sooner). After you've paid $$$ to have something done, then had to do it over because it obviously wasn't done properly, you don't go back. The shop in Sequim (Sunnyside Auto) also is a week or more out normally - unless you have a serious need and they will then do whatever they can to help. I've never had to re-do anything that they did for any of our vehicles.
Sorry to go so far off topic, but I suspect most of us have had similar experiences.

 

[Josh P]

You know what? I want to thank you for the heads up on the place in Sequim. If we'd go by recommendations non of us would be taking our cars to smucks who say it's a cat. converter when it's really a broken sparkplug. True story. It was my car. Spent almost $400 and had to take it back. Still shuttered violently. It was a broken sparkplug. But, I had a new catallytic converter and a new plug...only needed a new plug. That was when I started trying to fix my cars myself.

Spark plugs wouldn't spark, the generator wouldn't gen and the pistons well they don't work either. My friend likes to tell this old joke.