JackStand Points

[mattp321]

I am planning on doing a 4-jackstand lift using the factory included jack... I just need a couple of extra inches to do a PTU and Rear Diff fluid change. I normally do oil changes without any jacks at all but I don't need to get as deep under the Ex as I will need to for the PTU caps.

Where should I locate the jackstands for the best safety and stability? I tried to find this in other threads but I wasn't able to.

Is this just a bad idea? (Too dangerous) ? I only need a couple of inches, would it be better for me to just lay some 2x6 boards on the ground in front of my wheels and drive forward onto them? Is that "safe" or can the wood collapse? That seems like it would be much much faster than jacking things up one corner at a time.

Thanks1

 

[Mbrooks420]

Never crawl under a vehicle using the factory jack. I’d use at least two ramps to replace a pair of Jack stands.

 

[J_C]

If you want to use the owner's manual designated lift points, that's the pinch welds right behind the front tire and right in front of the rear tire. With the traditional A-frame style jack stands, you'd be better off using some adapters like these to spread the load, reduce chance of crushing the pinch weld, especially as it gets older and weaker from rust.

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For long term maintenance, I'd recommend getting a decent 3+ Ton, high lift floor jack and an adapter puck for the saddle to use on pinch welds. I mean only to lift it to place jack stands, instead of having to get out and use the slow, factory jack which is only meant for the pinch welds.

On the other hand if you really only need a couple inches, a 2 x 6 is not actually 2" thick but you could stack a couple, staggered or even cut a ramp slope onto the ends, and if you are placing it on a flat, paved surface, there is very little chance of it disintegrating under the weight of the vehicle. I'd consider that safer than using jack stands even though I consider jack stands relatively safe if used correctly. Then again you could just buy some ramps. That's why they exist, to gain some lift when the wheels don't need to come off.

 

[texsn95]

Yeah, what they said. Invest in a good jack and 4x jack-stands.

HF has a coupon for a 3-ton but it's pretty heavy to move around. I've been using their 2-ton aluminum jack for many years with zero issues. You should never be in a rush to jack up a vehicle, if it takes 10 more minutes to do it correctly then so be it.

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[peterk9]

I am planning on doing a 4-jackstand lift using the factory included jack... I just need a couple of extra inches to do a PTU and Rear Diff fluid change. I normally do oil changes without any jacks at all but I don't need to get as deep under the Ex as I will need to for the PTU caps.

Where should I locate the jackstands for the best safety and stability? I tried to find this in other threads but I wasn't able to.

Is this just a bad idea? (Too dangerous) ? I only need a couple of inches, would it be better for me to just lay some 2x6 boards on the ground in front of my wheels and drive forward onto them? Is that "safe" or can the wood collapse? That seems like it would be much much faster than jacking things up one corner at a time.

Thanks1

Hi Matt. The jack points are shown in the manual on page 329 of the 3rd printing.

Peter

 

[mguy13sport]

I use the factory pinch welds with jack stands. They are double layered in the indicated areas Peter posted above. When lifting up I use a floor jack on the subframe mounts in the front or under the control arms in rear.

 

[wcharon]

I use the factory pinch welds with jack stands. They are double layered in the indicated areas Peter posted above. When lifting up I use a floor jack on the subframe mounts in the front or under the control arms in rear.

Can you share what weight are the Jack Stands you use? 3 or 6 Ton?

I am looking for a overall to work on the Explorer, Mustang and Nissan 350Z. Basically minor jobs but safe.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mguy13sport]

I'm using the blue Duralast 2.25 ton stands they were $40 at AZ

 

[Biohazrus]

I am planning on doing a 4-jackstand lift using the factory included jack... I just need a couple of extra inches to do a PTU and Rear Diff fluid change. I normally do oil changes without any jacks at all but I don't need to get as deep under the Ex as I will need to for the PTU caps.

Where should I locate the jackstands for the best safety and stability? I tried to find this in other threads but I wasn't able to.

Is this just a bad idea? (Too dangerous) ? I only need a couple of inches, would it be better for me to just lay some 2x6 boards on the ground in front of my wheels and drive forward onto them? Is that "safe" or can the wood collapse? That seems like it would be much much faster than jacking things up one corner at a time.

Thanks1

If you only want few inches, 1 or 2 2x6 under the wheel could be great. That would not collapse. Make sure you are align.
May want to invest in ramps, or rent?

 

[dfox52]

I use the factory pinch welds with jack stands. They are double layered in the indicated areas Peter posted above. When lifting up I use a floor jack on the subframe mounts in the front or under the control arms in rear.

I do this but also include a rubber puck with a groove on each of the pinch welds. The pucks get "chewed up" over time but I keep this set separate to use for this purpose.

 

[funwithbono]

For jack stands, right behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels on the side frame rails (just below the door sills). But just raising the front is not conducive to the PTU draining (which drains to the passenger side). It only holds about 18 oz so best to get as much drained as possible. If you could drive all four wheels on stands or boards to make it level, that would be best. I always rotate my tires when I’m servicing the oil, tranny, PTU, whatever so I put my wheels under the frame as a fail-safe just in case she wants to come down on me. Ultimately though, a lift is the best way to service your PTU and rear dif if you know anyone , the rest is serviceable on the ground!

 

[dejen3303]

These are Lincoln stands.

 

[mattp321]

Just an update - thanks for everyone's advice.

Yesterday I ended up going with the wooden board method. I had some scrap 2x10's laying around from a previous project, so I parked my Ex in a level part of my driveway. Then I placed a 30" long 2x10 directly in front of each wheel. I then carefully drove up onto the boards and stopped... got out and laid a shorter (18") 2x10 board directly in front of each wheel... got back in and carefully pulled up on top again. So I was left with each wheel parked on top of 2 boards, which totals about 3" of extra lift.

With this extra 3", I changed my oil & filter, my PTU fluid, and my rear diff fluid. I normally change my oil without any lift whatsoever, and let me tell you, this extra 3" makes it SO MUCH EASIER. No more getting scraped up by that front bumper air dam thing as I slide under!

This was my first time doing the PTU and diff fluid. I went with the Amsoil full synthetic. PTU was quite easy as mine has both the fill and drain plugs. Came out sinky and dark at 72k miles. Possible slow fluid leak around the seal where the front passenger axle enters the PTU, will have to keep an eye on that. The rear differential was easier to access, however, harder to do as there is no drain plug. I had to pump out as much as I could, but I don't think I was able to get it all out. Took just under a quart out and refilled it with the Amsoil severe gear.

I run Mobile-1 with the Ford OEM filter for the oil. Seems like it runs fine for me.

 

[funwithbono]

Just an update - thanks for everyone's advice.

Yesterday I ended up going with the wooden board method. I had some scrap 2x10's laying around from a previous project, so I parked my Ex in a level part of my driveway. Then I placed a 30" long 2x10 directly in front of each wheel. I then carefully drove up onto the boards and stopped... got out and laid a shorter (18") 2x10 board directly in front of each wheel... got back in and carefully pulled up on top again. So I was left with each wheel parked on top of 2 boards, which totals about 3" of extra lift.

With this extra 3", I changed my oil & filter, my PTU fluid, and my rear diff fluid. I normally change my oil without any lift whatsoever, and let me tell you, this extra 3" makes it SO MUCH EASIER. No more getting scraped up by that front bumper air dam thing as I slide under!

This was my first time doing the PTU and diff fluid. I went with the Amsoil full synthetic. PTU was quite easy as mine has both the fill and drain plugs. Came out sinky and dark at 72k miles. Possible slow fluid leak around the seal where the front passenger axle enters the PTU, will have to keep an eye on that. The rear differential was easier to access, however, harder to do as there is no drain plug. I had to pump out as much as I could, but I don't think I was able to get it all out. Took just under a quart out and refilled it with the Amsoil severe gear.

I run Mobile-1 with the Ford OEM filter for the oil. Seems like it runs fine for me.

Well done, great choice of products across the board!

 

[dejen3303]

Changing to a full synthetic will probably accelerate that leak. I've had that happen.

 

[funwithbono]

Changing to a full synthetic will probably accelerate that leak. I've had that happen.

Motorcraft already uses a full synthetic in the PTU from the factory and dealer service…the amsoil is just better!