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Joining the bandwagon, my 4L OHV build

easier yes but still in the way!!you can all most see it stamped in the pic,in the middle of the head behind the springs under the rocker arm shaft.could be but man thats bad either way,bad oil means high heat low lube witch means worn bearings.also high heat is very bad for those heads if they are stock
 



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ps im the 2nd owner of my truck,my ex was the first so kind of the first but it had synthetic oil from 60000 up till 160000 when the pump pick up got clogged
 






ok. both have a "3" on them. passenger one has "C8S1A" on the front and what looks like "10H" in the middle. drivers one has "90" towards the back.
thats all i could read. just took a shower and its raining so i didnt wanna dig in to far

history: friend of my friend sold it to me. it had sat for 2 years i think (at least a year). i got a new battery and it was running. told me "rebuilt" 30k ago, ticking away
 












yea i was searching that. when i looked back at brandons thread and saw where i was supposed to be looking. took some wd-40, a little pick and a rag. read 90tm clear as day on both sides.

rebuilt my ass....
atleast this time its gonna be rebuilt for real
 






Well it was rebuilt but just with the wrong heads.being they were that cheap you know no bearing or anything was done so if i was you i would do a full rebuild,now your talkn money or run it for another 100000 or so till those bearing give out
 






ive been thinking of a full rebuild for awhile. id be able to learn this motor down to every bolt by doing that.
damnit. so much for buying bumpers with my tax money. looks like its all getting sunk into this


i keep forgetting to take pics of them. but i got some used jbas awhile back. the y-pipe has 2 o2 sensors on it. my stock one just has 1 when they join before the cat.
 






Its should have three 2 O2 and one egr.you have to have one welded on infront of the cat or just in front of that flange,in order for you O2 to read right
 












You can probably get away with just having the crank turned and balanced.so you could just use stock pistons.so just new rings and rod/crank bearings and cost for turn down,maybe another $300 shouldnt be too bad
 






You dont nor do you have 2 O2 you have to plug all those and have a new hole drilled and welded where you old one came from
 






i guess ill see what everything looks like when i get to that point. full rebuild would be good for me, but money isnt

well if the stock y-pipe comes out in one piece hopefully i can just use that. cause the one with the jbas is rusty. mine is in good shape.

you mind looking on ebay for some 93tms? brandon said modernengine sucked so those are out of the question. and that other guy youve mentioned apparently wont take less then 200 now
 


















Engine Quest the first link.yea go with two and OE springs are fine but i would go SI for valves
 












Yea its the same guy from the link earlier. Also he just had the 95tms on sale most of got tired of everyone offering him $150hahah now we know hell take $190
 












I think they are $13 a piece like $130 shipped,shoot Brandon a pm he just got his.rockauto should have a good price on springs with our discount or tously ford think thats how to spell it.email the guy about the heads and see if he will give you a discount on shipping or anything if you buy two heads,he might nock $10 off each one,who knows
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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