Just joined the club - need a bit of help

[avidmar1978]

Damn - wasn't it noisy??? Also, is the rear O2 sensor present just behind the catalytic converter, or was it in the missing pipe? Do you have the yellow/orange "Check Engine Light" (CEL) dashboard light on in this beast? If not, are you sure it lights up with the bulb test when you turn the key to on?
Are you in an emission testing state and, if so, has it passed?

Probably be a good idea to put small hose clamps on either end of the new oevrflow hose.

Wow...

The Check Engine and Check Fuel Cap lights DO NOT come on with the key in the "On" position, all other ones do.

 

[Tango51]

Don't worry about it, if the hole is after the muffler it isn't going to be noisy because the noise has already been muffled...just sayin.

 

[avidmar1978]

Don't worry about it, if the hole is after the muffler it isn't going to be noisy because the noise has already been muffled...just sayin.

I guess I'm more worried about exhaust fumes in the passenger cabin than a little bit of noise...

 

[bobflood]

I think you're the 4th person to ask me that! It doesn't seem noisy, but I'm sure once I fix it I'll realize just how loud it was. I turned the radio off and closed all the windows and really listened; it's a bit noisy when going up hill, but still very quiet on straight aways.

According to the diagrams, the catalytic converter is in front of the muffler, and everything running into the muffler looks good as far as I can see. I haven't had any CEL appear on me yet. The fuel gauge and airbag lights are both working, but I'll make sure it lights up in the "on" position today - I'm pretty sure it does.

Sorry - I misunderstood and thought you meant the missing pipe was before the muffler. Re-read it and that is clearly not what you said. I would not worry too much about exhaust in the cabin - since the missing pipe is after the muffler it's pretty far back. Still a good idea to replace the missing pipe.

 

[bobflood]

Wow...

The Check Engine and Check Fuel Cap lights DO NOT come on with the key in the "On" position, all other ones do.

OK - now you need to get your codes read to find out if you have any problems. Advance/AutoZone/O'Reilly/whoever should do it for free. Get both the descriptions and the code numbers if you have any codes. Going to be interesting to find out if your CEL burned out from overuse - or was removed by a previous owner/seller to mask a problem.

Luckily, the insturment cluster is fairly easy to remove for bulb replacement. Do you have to worry about an emissions check? In Georgia, if you are in an emission test county and the CEL doesn't come on with the key - you flunk immediately (ask me how I know!!)

 

[Tango51]

Haha! Sorry...I meant don't worry about people asking you if it is noisy...lol.
I think that exhaust fumes are definitely something to worry about in general, but I agree with bobflood, in your situation it's not an issue. Replace that pipe when you can, but it's not an emergency....

 

[avidmar1978]

No emmissions testing in Ohio.

I had the guy at O'Reilly's check and he said something about oxygen. He went on to say that swapping out the spark plugs and wires would take care of it, but there was no hurry.

Heading out to put on the exhaust now.

 

[avidmar1978]

Exhaust = installed!

Radiator hose? The genius at O'Reilly's cut it about 8 inches short, even though he measured it himself. Guess where I'm headed after work tomorrow?

 

[avidmar1978]

Very interesting video about relays:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=Mru8BbTGDwM

 

[avidmar1978]

Ok... There is absolutely no reason anyone shouldn't become a member at autozone.com.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802e3a38

It doesn't cost anything, and actually has diagrams pointing out each aux relay box, among hundreds of other things.

 

[avidmar1978]

I bought a multimeter and have some readings for you:

Pink/Yellow at the relay box reads close enough to 12V to count
Pink/Green at the relay box reads close enough to 12V to count

Pink/Yellow at the rear switch reads 6V
Pink/Green at the rear switch reads 2V

Pink/Black and Pink/Orange get no reading. Is this normal?

****EDIT****

According to the Ford Service Manual, if none of the door locks are working:

Disconnect the All Unlock Relay, then

Measure the voltage between all unlock relay connector Pin 86, Circuit 171 (BK/W), and ground.


Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
REPAIR Circuit 57 (BK). TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR Circuit 171 (BK/W). TEST the system for normal operation.


In my case, the voltage was close enough to 12. Do I have a faulty ground?

This would be consistent with what my Electrical Engineer co-worker told me today. How do you suggest I repair a faulty ground?

****EDIT AGAIN****

I suspect I should look for the infamous splice at the rear of the driver side door

 

[avidmar1978]

I got it!!!

I sured up the ground wires, which I'm now pretty sure didn't need to get done, and that didn't do anything. I spent 3 hours this morning taking out the back seats to check as much of the run of cables as possible, and couldn't find any issues. I put everything back together and quit. I was ready to give up, but my obsessive nature had me keep researching and keep trying.

I checked out a different section of my Ford Service Manual, and found the troubleshooting steps that led me to the solution. In checking the resistance of the Pink/Yellow wire at the relay box when the lock button was pressed, I was getting no reading. I traced the Pink/Yellow line back and found that it was corroded inside the jack compartment, as was the Pink/Green wire.

I patched up the corroded sections of both wires, and viola! Working power door locks!

Thanks to everyone who offered up help.

 

[bobflood]

I got it!!!

I patched up the corroded sections of both wires, and viola! Working power door locks!

Thanks to everyone who offered up help.

Excellent - way to stay with it and finish the job. Welcome to the forum.

 

[avidmar1978]

I got it!!!

I sured up the ground wires, which I'm now pretty sure didn't need to get done, and that didn't do anything. I spent 3 hours this morning taking out the back seats to check as much of the run of cables as possible, and couldn't find any issues. I put everything back together and quit. I was ready to give up, but my obsessive nature had me keep researching and keep trying.

So I didn't really notice this until I took my 10 year old for a drive...

The back seats move around quite a bit now. If I grab the front of the seat and pull forward, they move quite a bit. If I sit back there in the seat belt, my weight keeps the seats from moving at all. I don't know if it was doing this before or not, my daughter says no, and she's the only one who sat back there before and after I took the seats out. I only removed the seat bottoms, not the seat backs.

Is the arm that connects the seat cushion to the back supposed to lock in place? I can post a pic later if need be.