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Just started rebuilt 4.0 - Rod knock?

I'm probably going to pull a valve cover in the next few days to take a look at whats going on. I have a feeling that since there seems to be a uniform buzzing type noise coming from the whole valvetrain, my pushrods are slightly too short.

I should measure the pushrod length with an adjustable pushrod checker.

Man I hope this is actually whats causing it - it really doesn't sound like a particular lifter collapsed or anything like that anymore like when i first fired it up, and one stubborn one wouldn't pump up for a bit.

I didn't have any sticky lifters (in terms of where they sit in the bore/ tab indexing) when I reinstalled the stockers after being cleaned up - and they all had free plunger movement.
 



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Some interesting reading for you scholarly gentlemen

Found this page from comp cams about setting lifter preload:
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/020.html

And dug up this interesting thread about selecting cams, and appropriate pushrods:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67865&highlight=measuring+pushrods

I believe I had ordered 5.550. I don't have my aftermarket (Engine Quest) heads milled at all.

From the Cam up, I'm running:

- Comp 410 Cam
- Stock Lifters, rebuilt, and quiet before being gone over.
- Smithbros 5.550 Pushrods
- Sealed Power Rocker Arms
- SI Stainless Valves

Sounds like time for me to do a little more research.
 






Found this page from comp cams about setting lifter preload:
http://www.compcams.com/catalog/020.html

And dug up this interesting thread about selecting cams, and appropriate pushrods:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67865&highlight=measuring+pushrods

I believe I had ordered 5.550. I don't have my aftermarket (Engine Quest) heads milled at all.

From the Cam up, I'm running:

- Comp 410 Cam
- Stock Lifters, rebuilt, and quiet before being gone over.
- Smithbros 5.550 Pushrods
- Sealed Power Rocker Arms
- SI Stainless Valves

Sounds like time for me to do a little more research.
You would be getting a very loud tap if they was to short.you should be fine.proper way is to get an adjustable pushrod from smith brother and measure.my sealed power lifters had .120 plungger travel, I set my preload at half .060,this was about the same travel my stock ones had also.buzzing sound I would belive is not from the valvetrain.
 






edit.....

What JD said.
 






I guess I really need to try and get a video of what I have going on - it's pretty loud considering I can hear it 20 feet from the truck with just cats and a 2 foot pipe after it. It sounds like its coming from the valve cover region, and its a uniform buzzing type noise.

Would too little/ or too much lifter preload cause some sort of noise?
 






I guess I really need to try and get a video of what I have going on - it's pretty loud considering I can hear it 20 feet from the truck with just cats and a 2 foot pipe after it. It sounds like its coming from the valve cover region, and its a uniform buzzing type noise.

Would too little/ or too much lifter preload cause some sort of noise?

Video would be great.have you ran it without a belt to see if the sound goes away
Too little= rocker slap.LOUD tapping
Too much= vlave not closing.loss of power and backfiring happens

Fyi its not good to run a fresh motor with just cats and a two foot pipe.you can damage rings and valves
 






I guess I really need to try and get a video of what I have going on - it's pretty loud considering I can hear it 20 feet from the truck with just cats and a 2 foot pipe after it. It sounds like its coming from the valve cover region, and its a uniform buzzing type noise.

Would too little/ or too much lifter preload cause some sort of noise?

Video would be great.
Too little= rocker slap.LOUD tapping
Too much= vlave not closing.loss of power and backfiring happens

Fyi its not good to run a fresh motor with just cats and a two foot pipe.you can damage rings and valves
 












Dang I better fix that then - I've mostly let it idle for a bit to see what it does.
 






It could be the pushrods are too short or the valves retainers are hitting the valve seals. I thinks its time to pull the valve cover and take a look
 






Pull the belt and reshoot it.cant hear anything over ps pump.to me it doesnt seem loud at all.ill post some when I had to short of pushrods and then after
 






Ok Jd I'll do that - That PS Pump is a POS.

Those vids would be real helpful as well!

I'm dying to drive the beast - I'm just scared to kill this thing.
 












first vid is with the stock oil pump,410 and wrong size pushrods.second is 422,high flow pump and many other goodies:D

this is what you call LOUD


yes my motor is dirty...i do play with my toys:salute:
 












Hey - thanks for those vids. The first one sounds like when I first fired the motor up. The second one sounds great man! Nasty.

I'll go outside and take a look to double check - kinda does sound like a pcv jiggling back and forth lol
 






Hey - thanks for those vids. The first one sounds like when I first fired the motor up. The second one sounds great man! Nasty.

I'll go outside and take a look to double check - kinda does sound like a pcv jiggling back and forth lol

to me it sounds like a vac not valvetrain.on the vac tree there should be one nipple that has a little black cap on it.thats pops off all the time.idle always that high?
and thanks.i need to get it running again,i blew the head gaskets off in the mountains:mad:
 






Vac tree looks good - cruise control, brake booster, etc - no open tubes. PCV is connected and that little plug that goes in the top is in - throttle body connection is on - Purge canister/ evap line is connected - both stock airbox tubes are connected - pretty sure fuel pressure regulator has the vacc connected (no dirty exhaust or anything) - climate control all seems to work inside so that vacc system is good

The idle will drop down when it build vacuum/ warms a little. I just fired it up cold with no belt drive so its a little high.
 






Vac tree looks good - cruise control, brake booster, etc - no open tubes. PCV is connected and that little plug that goes in the top is in - throttle body connection is on - Purge canister/ evap line is connected - both stock airbox tubes are connected - pretty sure fuel pressure regulator has the vacc connected (no dirty exhaust or anything) - climate control all seems to work inside so that vacc system is good

The idle will drop down when it build vacuum/ warms a little. I just fired it up cold with no belt drive so its a little high.

Man idk then.
 



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Valve cover has to come off. Check preload on all push rods with each valve closed. Then if preload is ok, your going to have to start looking at stuff like the valve guide seal hitting the valve retainer.

Just some suggestions, they might not be the best, but you have to start looking somewhere.

Painful.
 






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