K&N filter=check engine light

[FMNavajo]

DC,
I know it's out of the way but the older models have the octopus looking thing for all the vacuum hoses mounted on the upper intake manifold, my 92' does but I'm not sure about the 93'-94' models. One of these hoses goes to your EGR and one goes over to the air intake box, one could have come loose while installing the K&N.

Just a thought,
good luck,
FM

 

[DC]

Well the code reader was right. The codes were low voltage to the EGR sensor and EGR valve not opening. The Ford dealer found that the PFE-DPFE was bad. The DPFE was not allowing the EGR valve to open. So thats why the check engine light did not come on until after the truck warmed up. The DPFE only starts working(more voltage) after the truck warms up. So it cost me 2 hours labor plus the $78.00 sensor. I should have just replaced myself but the dealer would still have charged me with most of the labor(diagnostic time). But at least I have a clean MAF, TB and new sensor, maybe this will help me with my 15MPG average. Plus they did a clean job on my lift gate bracket recall.

Thanks for all the help, this is a great site.

 

[jwrezz]

EGR/EVR/PFE-DPFE

Glad i checked this post, 'cause i was about to start my own for a similar problem. I have a '95 (still OBD I/ EEC IV) 4.0 V6. My C.E.L. came on but no problems. After a week I had a mechanic friend scan the codes. 335 and 332 came up. My Chilton book says 332 is Insufficient EGR flow, but doesn't have any thing for 335. Any body know? Well I was told that the EVR solenoid is a problem in fords so I blew thru mine (like the chilton book said) and could blow freely so I repaced it (today) w/ a new one ($30 from Ford Dealer). BTW could blow thru the new one too, but I think it depends which port you blow into, or if you try to suck air thru instead of blowing. There was a difference in resistance between the new and old though so figured the new one is ok. I cleared the codes. BTW my Chilton book says that stopping your testing while the computer is transmitting the codes is the best way to clear them. Disconnecting the battery also clears the "engine wear" memory settings that the computer "learns" as your engine wears. Well, the check engine lite came on again after a few miles at hwy speed. So any way after installing the new EVR solenoid I jumped the EEC test plugs to get the check engine lite to blink the stored codes. KOEO codes were the same I got 335, 335, pause, separator blink, then 332, 332. Still don't know what 335 is but Chilton says 334 "egr closed high voltage" and 337 says "EVP or DPFE above max voltage." Could this be a bad EGR valve? Or maybe the DPFE thing? So any way I figure why not start the engine and see if I can read KOER codes via the blinking lite. Here's what I got (kinda):

3 blinks engine running at 1500-1600 rpm then it lowers to idle (just under 1k on my dash tach) and I get 1 blink, then...
326, 538, 536, 632 then again
326, 538, 536, 632

Chilton book says nothing about these codes (some are close, but none the same), althought I don't really know if the blinking lite thing works w/ KOER situations. Any one have any clues? After this frustration, I came in to my trusty Mac, got online, and ordered an Auto Xray code scanner for Ford OBD-I engines. It was $180, but it tells all sorts of codes (KOEO, and KOER) much more like the professional ones, but this is only usable on Ford OBD-I/EEC IV. I can't get adapters for other computers (that universal scanner costs like $500). I'm looking forward to using it and solving all my problems (right?), but would appreciate any help from you guys! Thanx,


[Edited by jwrezz on 06-20-2000 at 12:01 AM]

 

[ERIC]

Re: EGR/EVR/PFE-DPFE

Originally posted by jwrezz

My Chilton book says 332 is Insufficient EGR flow, but doesn't have any thing for 335. Any body know?
snip
326, 538, 536, 632
Chilton book says nothing about these codes (some are close, but none the same)

From the Haynes manual:

335 = EGR Sensor voltage out of range
326= No info given in Haynes
538= Insufficiant change in RPM/operator error in Dynamic Response Check
or
538= Invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (1995 models only)
536= Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure/not activated during KOER
632= Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states during KOER

As you are probably aware, each of these codes has a specific "run state" concerning the key on/off, engine running/off, etc. Anyhow, if you really want to get this mess straightened out yourself, I think you are doing the right thing to get the code scanner cause my Haynes says there are a lot of codes (fast codes) that you can't even access with a reader.

Good luck, and please let us know how this all works out, eh?

 

[DC]

I had the same codes 335 was EGR low voltage, and 332 was insuffient(sp) flow to EGR. I also had 326 which was also a voltage problem with the EGR sensor. All these codes came down to the DPFE, it controls the flow to the EGR valve and it was bad. The dealer replaced the valve and no more Check Engine light. I would go ahead and replace yours. I think it is fairly simple. I would have done mine myself but it was already at the dealer.

 

[jwrezz]

Thanx!!

Thanx for all the advice. Sorry that last post was a bit long winded, but I know I had to be specific. I'm gonna head over to a dealer and talk to them about the DPFE sensor (how much, other possible problems). Thanx again guys,

 

[Triton46]

Could someone explain where the DPFE sensor is? I looked through Haynes and dont see a listing for it? Check the thread (Check Engine Madness!!!! under Under the Hood) for my long experience...Im getting a code scanner tomorrow and see what I have, but I would like to look at this sensor (where ever it is) and check its connection. THanks!