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Keyless Entry FOB

TedStryker

Member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
29
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City, State
Rancho Cordova, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Explorer 4x4 Limited
Howdy all,

I lost a keyless entry FOB to my 1993 Limited, and am trying to find a replacement part. I see the original part number (according to Ford Parts) is 15K601. It costs about $50 from the dealer. Searching the pn with Amazon, there are lot of aftermarket options that look similar, but the compatibility specs don't include any vehicles older than about a 1997 vintage. Weird thing, though: the compatibility charts have replacement part numbers that include "15K601" in them. (i.e. 8L3Z15K601B). These options are considerably less expensive. (2 for $15, free shipping).

My questions is: does anybody know if these aftermarket units will work with this vehicle? Is there something fundamentally different about the keyless entry electronics between 1993 and 1997?

Maybe a more important question whether anybody knows a good source from which to obtain a new keyless entry fob at the lowest price. I must be missing something here, because I know there are a lot of vehicles that must have used the same system as my 93 Explorer.
 



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I purchased 2 used key fobs for my '94 Limited from an eBay source about 3 years ago. As I recall, they were about $12-13 each. Both worked fine - and still do.
 






Thanks for the replies. I did find a source online, and have received the new remotes.

Now I can't figure out how to program them. I searched the web and it seems there should be a "programming connector." Some say it should be behind the glove box, and some say it's in the LH rear quarter panel.

I searched the behind the glove box, but haven't found anything like that. However, in the LH rear quarter panel (where the rear WS fluid and bottle jack are stored), there is a 2-pin connector just kind of hanging down, not connected to anything. (See photos.) However, when I try to short it, nothing happens. (I tried with the ignition on both "run" and "acc".)

Do you have any suggestions? The vehicle is a Limited 4x4, if that makes any difference.

Many thanks in advance for all advice.

x2v1nr.jpg

6ef6hi.jpg
 






Thanks for the replies. I did find a source online, and have received the new remotes.

Now I can't figure out how to program them. I searched the web and it seems there should be a "programming connector." Some say it should be behind the glove box, and some say it's in the LH rear quarter panel.

I searched the behind the glove box, but haven't found anything like that. However, in the LH rear quarter panel (where the rear WS fluid and bottle jack are stored), there is a 2-pin connector just kind of hanging down, not connected to anything. (See photos.) However, when I try to short it, nothing happens. (I tried with the ignition on both "run" and "acc".)

Do you have any suggestions? The vehicle is a Limited 4x4, if that makes any difference.

Many thanks in advance for all advice.

x2v1nr.jpg

6ef6hi.jpg

That looks to be the right connector for the remote programming. So if you leave the keys in acc and return to the back of the vehicle and short it, the locks should cycle up and down, then press a button on the fob and it will cycle the locks again. My 94 XLT worked that way for both of the remotes I've programmed. My first reaction would be to double check the wire used to short to make sure you've got good connection (Dumb I know, but even little things like that make a difference). Then I would check the fuses for the alarm. Then I'd move to trying to make sure that programming cable is connected to the alarm system correctly by the washer resevoir, I am unaware if it can become disconnected or not.

I purchased both of my fobs from keylessoption's website using the following part number: It was like $9 per remote with batteries included. Zero issues with both of mine.
GQ43VT4T 3BTN
It is listed for the 93 as well.
 






Thanks for the great info. I did buy the remotes from Keylessoption, and they were a reasonable deal.

I used a multimeter to test the voltage at (what I think is the) programming connector, and came up with about 6.5V.... so it's connected to something. The wire colors also match up to a Ford schematic I found online. So, I'm pretty sure they're the right wires. I'll check the alarm fuse... but the keyless entry is working with the one remote I have, so I don't think that's the problem.

Something I thought of: I installed an aftermarket stereo in this vehicle. I wonder if that might have something to do with it? I can't imagine that the keyless entry would be connected to the factory stereo somehow... but now I wonder. As part of the installation process I bypassed the old subwoofer and amp.... maybe there was some alarm wiring in there somewhere? But still, doesn't seem likely.
 






Thanks for the great info. I did buy the remotes from Keylessoption, and they were a reasonable deal.

I used a multimeter to test the voltage at (what I think is the) programming connector, and came up with about 6.5V.... so it's connected to something. The wire colors also match up to a Ford schematic I found online. So, I'm pretty sure they're the right wires. I'll check the alarm fuse... but the keyless entry is working with the one remote I have, so I don't think that's the problem.

Something I thought of: I installed an aftermarket stereo in this vehicle. I wonder if that might have something to do with it? I can't imagine that the keyless entry would be connected to the factory stereo somehow... but now I wonder. As part of the installation process I bypassed the old subwoofer and amp.... maybe there was some alarm wiring in there somewhere? But still, doesn't seem likely.

I would agree that it is more than likely not the fuse, didn't realize you had another remote. I feel like the aftermarket radio wouldn't have anything to do with the radio either, but my aftermarket radio uses the factory amp and never had the factory sub.
 






So, I bought a pair of 3-button keyless entry remotes off a lady on Craigslist. They're marked on the back 'FCC ID: GQ43VT4T DOC: 1470 K763 TRW Inc. 3165189'. I'm led to believe that this key fob should work with 1st Gen Explorers, but I can't find any information on reprogramming the 1992 model. I know '93+ had the programming connector in the rear quarter panel that you're supposed to jump, but that's not there on my car. I tried cycling the ignition switch 8 times, and that seems completely ineffective too. Is it even possible to use a key fob with a '92? What am I missing?
 






So, I bought a pair of 3-button keyless entry remotes off a lady on Craigslist. They're marked on the back 'FCC ID: GQ43VT4T DOC: 1470 K763 TRW Inc. 3165189'. I'm led to believe that this key fob should work with 1st Gen Explorers, but I can't find any information on reprogramming the 1992 model. I know '93+ had the programming connector in the rear quarter panel that you're supposed to jump, but that's not there on my car. I tried cycling the ignition switch 8 times, and that seems completely ineffective too. Is it even possible to use a key fob with a '92? What am I missing?
Turnip, you'll have to provide us with a little more information. There were two alarm systems available in the first gen explorers. One came from the factory and the other was a dealer install. OP has the factory alarm from what I can tell by looking at the alarm box in the rear quarter panel. Do you have another key fob that you've used with the 92 before? I don't think the 92 came with a factory alarm system from what I've read. You would have to contact a dealer to find out more just because the alarm systems in general were a relatively limited options on first gens.
 






The car didn't come with a fob, but I presumed it had the ability to use a keyless remote since it has power locks. I took the driver's side door panel out to see if I could fix the speaker and noticed a black box inside the door cavity with what looked like an aerial attached to it. I only glanced at it since my attention was on the speaker, but I'm replacing all four speakers next weekend so I'll take some snaps of this receiver (?) and update you soon.
 






You've probably already thought this out, but be sure to get any manufacturer information on that black box. I'd never look for an aftermarket alarm/keyless entry unit inside the driver's door, but I suppose it's possible.
As an aside, be sure you either solder or securely fasten the speaker cables to the speakers to avoid an intermittent connection. Not long ago I purchased adapter cables that were supposed to match the OEM connectors and the speakers, but ended up having to solder the cables to the speakers because the connectors were junk.
 






The car didn't come with a fob, but I presumed it had the ability to use a keyless remote since it has power locks. I took the driver's side door panel out to see if I could fix the speaker and noticed a black box inside the door cavity with what looked like an aerial attached to it. I only glanced at it since my attention was on the speaker, but I'm replacing all four speakers next weekend so I'll take some snaps of this receiver (?) and update you soon.
My first 94 EX had power locks but no fob. Of the five or six people I've known with first gen XLTs, mine was the only one with a remote system. I think it was only standard on the Limited trim option. The dash on my 94 has a green alarm light that illuminates as you unlock and enter it. I'd be willing to bet the lack of the connector in the rear by the rear washer means you don't have one, not that I can explain what the black box does.

Also as far as stereo installs go, do use solder. Wire nuts can work fairly well though. Did the install of an aftermarket radio on my first EX and never had any issues with quality wire nuts. Never had any issues after 6 years.
 






The car didn't come with a fob, but I presumed it had the ability to use a keyless remote since it has power locks. I took the driver's side door panel out to see if I could fix the speaker and noticed a black box inside the door cavity with what looked like an aerial attached to it. I only glanced at it since my attention was on the speaker, but I'm replacing all four speakers next weekend so I'll take some snaps of this receiver (?) and update you soon.

The black box inside the driver door is most likely the control module for the auto down function of the window.

As others have said, if there is no connector in the rear, most likely there isn't a keyless entry system.
 






Ah, you might be on top something there, Tim. Thanks for all your replies, chaps. I've tomorrow off, so I'll hopefully finish the suspension bushings and make a start on the speakers. I was thinking of reusing the stock connectors, but I'll probably just direct solder the wires on instead. I'll keep you all posted.

Update: 10 points for Timtimtimajim, it was just the one-touch control module for the driver's side window. I guess my overactive imagination invented the presence of an aerial. Oh well, I can live without keyless entry for now.
 






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