Finally got Some pictures, so I can finally do my write-up. Here is the Specs
Axle:
76 F150 High Pinion Dana 44- This year has the 1/2" Axle Tubes Like a Dana 60
Narrowed 6" off Passenger side
Passenger side Axle Shaft resplined by Dutchman Motorsports http://dutchmanms.com/
New: All Seals, Calipers, Pads, turned the Rotors, Spicer Ball Joints, SPicer U- Joints
Warn Premium Manual Hubs
Warn Diff Cover (not pictured)
4.56 Gears
Open Carrier For Now
Before Pics (3" VR James Duff lift 235s)
Middle Before SAS (33x10.50 ATs, 4.5" Lift (3" VR James Duff+ Spacers and rear Spring over), Extended James Duff Arms)
Steering:
I purchased all the Steering link parts from RockWare (http://www.rockware.net/)
4 3/4" Heim Joints with a 3/4" hole (2 Left hand Threads, 2 Right Hand Threads)
Weld in Threaded ends for the Tubing
1 1/8" Seamless DOM tubing
I used 3/4" Grade 8 Bolts for all the Steering. Drilled out the Pitman Arm and the knuckles.
I also used Misalignment Bushings for 3/4" Bolts from Poison Spyder Customs (http://www.spydercustoms.com/). I used 3 1/4" bushings and 1 3/4" bushing
I put an "s" Bend in the Drag Link to keep the Heims with in Misalignment travel through out suspension cycle. Both the Tie Rod and Draglink are mounted over the knuckles (not pictured) and the Tierod has a small bend in it to accomodate the draglink as it fully compresses
Trackbar:
Same as the Steering
I purchased all the Steering link parts from RockWare (http://www.rockware.net/)
4 3/4" Heim Joints with a 3/4" hole (2 Left hand Threads, 2 Right Hand Threads)
Weld in Threaded ends for the Tubing
1 1/8" Seamless DOM tubing
The upper mount uses Misalgnment Bushings for a 5/16" Bolt That I purchased from Rockware (http://www.rockware.net/) . I did this to give more misaligment travel and to accomodate the mounts width and hole size.
The lower mount uses a 3/4" Bolt and 2 1/8" Poison Spyder 3/4" Misaligment bushings. The mount was drilled to accept a 3/4" bolt.
I put an "s" bend in the trackbar to accomodate the Differential upon compression of drivers side.
Track Bar Mount
I used a stock F150 trakc bar mount turned over and braced with 1/4" Flat stock. I also braced the frame with 1/4" thick 2"x 3" angle Iron. The angle iron is notched for all the bolts for the steering box.
Radius Arms
I am running the Stock Radius Arms of the 1976 F150. The mounts are off of a 70 something 2x4 F150 in the Junk Yard. They were the lowest profile mounts I could find. They are mounted such that the axle is 3.5" further forward than the Dana 35 originally was. I removed the rear lower Body mount rivet and used it as a front hole for the mount. This gave me a better approach angle and allowed me to use a stock driveshaft. I decided this is the most the axle could be moved forward with out serious modifications. I used new Polyurathane Radius Arm Bushings and C-Bushings from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard (http://www.broncograveyard.com/index.php)
Coils & Buckets
In the pictures I am running 5.5" Wild Horses Rock Crawler Springs (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/). These Springs were not quiet tall enough to give me much up travel before the differential ran into the hacked Engine crossmember and the Driveshaft ran into the Exhaust y-pipe. I originally planned to keep the truck with about 6 inches of lift and 35s. I would reccomend using a LOW PINION for 6" of lift because of the problems I faced with my driveshaft and exhaust.
I have since Switched to 6.5" w/ Winch Springs from BC Broncos. (http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/) I like these coils very much. I get as much stuff as I did with the 5.5s (actually more up travel from ride height because I am not limited by the exhaust) and much more droop. They are very soft and are not progressively wound.
I tried 6.5" lift coils for an 79 Bronco/ 66-79 F150 from Superlift, but they were extremely stiff and they did not fit my mounts right.
Coil Buckets
My coil Buckets are unique.
This is the fist time I have seen this, but I decided to use Full Height Coil Towers from a 70s F150. I did not cut mine down like many have. The reason I did this was because I believe a longer coil will give more travel and I wanted to run a long coil and not alot of lift.
Also, on the drivers side I notched the bucket to fit around the bulge on the frame and then welded it in solid. I did this because I have seen many SAS with severly "v" 'd coils because the lower mounts are spaced closer than the upper mounts. I think that this is magnified when the bulge is ignored and the drivers coil bucket is just mounted on top of the bulge.
Both buckets also have been bolted in every hole possible (the drivers is bolted and welded using Grade 8 1/2" Bolts. The passenger side is fully removeable. They were also moved 2" forward from stock.
Shocks, Shock Hoops, Brake Lines & Bump Stops
I am using Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks PN 9012s because they have 13" of travel. I built some shock towers out of 1/2" Tubing. The shocks needed to extend into the engine compartment for full travel, so I built the towers to go up into the inner fender. Also incorporated in the tower is a bump stop. They are polyurathe for the front of a Early Bronco and are fully removeable Va the threads. The brake line mount was cut off the old coil buckets and I welded them onto my shock hoops. The hard lines were extended with some couplers and pre- flares tubing from Auto Zone so the hard line would reach the new mount. I think the extension is about 1 foot on the drivers side and 6" on the passenger side.
Rear Set Up
Right now my rear sits 4" lower than the front. It has 2x4 3 leaf springs in it in a SOA. I plan to put in some 4x4 4 leaf packs and a set of Spring Rockers to bring it up.
For the bolt pattern, I used wheel spacers from Bob Myers of Myers MAchine shop. He was the cheapest I found and he built them to my specs. He can be contacted by email at rmyers2051@alltel.net or by phone at 859-253-2259
Tires and Wheels
I am running 34"x 10.50 Super Swamper TSLs on 93 Bronco Stock 15x8 rims painted black. I could fit 37s and I will probably run some 37x12.50x15s when the swampers wear out.
Currently Setup: BRakelines run down at center of axle, Wristed Passenger Arm. ARB. Cheby 1 Ton Tierod End Steering. Went Back to a stock pitman arm. Rebuilt a new 8.8 rear axle and moved it back 1". Rear Custom stacked spring Pack 37" MTRs on 15x10s with 3.5" of backspace.
Current Photo:
Axle:
76 F150 High Pinion Dana 44- This year has the 1/2" Axle Tubes Like a Dana 60
Narrowed 6" off Passenger side
Passenger side Axle Shaft resplined by Dutchman Motorsports http://dutchmanms.com/
New: All Seals, Calipers, Pads, turned the Rotors, Spicer Ball Joints, SPicer U- Joints
Warn Premium Manual Hubs
Warn Diff Cover (not pictured)
4.56 Gears
Open Carrier For Now
Before Pics (3" VR James Duff lift 235s)
Middle Before SAS (33x10.50 ATs, 4.5" Lift (3" VR James Duff+ Spacers and rear Spring over), Extended James Duff Arms)
Steering:
I purchased all the Steering link parts from RockWare (http://www.rockware.net/)
4 3/4" Heim Joints with a 3/4" hole (2 Left hand Threads, 2 Right Hand Threads)
Weld in Threaded ends for the Tubing
1 1/8" Seamless DOM tubing
I used 3/4" Grade 8 Bolts for all the Steering. Drilled out the Pitman Arm and the knuckles.
I also used Misalignment Bushings for 3/4" Bolts from Poison Spyder Customs (http://www.spydercustoms.com/). I used 3 1/4" bushings and 1 3/4" bushing
I put an "s" Bend in the Drag Link to keep the Heims with in Misalignment travel through out suspension cycle. Both the Tie Rod and Draglink are mounted over the knuckles (not pictured) and the Tierod has a small bend in it to accomodate the draglink as it fully compresses
Trackbar:
Same as the Steering
I purchased all the Steering link parts from RockWare (http://www.rockware.net/)
4 3/4" Heim Joints with a 3/4" hole (2 Left hand Threads, 2 Right Hand Threads)
Weld in Threaded ends for the Tubing
1 1/8" Seamless DOM tubing
The upper mount uses Misalgnment Bushings for a 5/16" Bolt That I purchased from Rockware (http://www.rockware.net/) . I did this to give more misaligment travel and to accomodate the mounts width and hole size.
The lower mount uses a 3/4" Bolt and 2 1/8" Poison Spyder 3/4" Misaligment bushings. The mount was drilled to accept a 3/4" bolt.
I put an "s" bend in the trackbar to accomodate the Differential upon compression of drivers side.
Track Bar Mount
I used a stock F150 trakc bar mount turned over and braced with 1/4" Flat stock. I also braced the frame with 1/4" thick 2"x 3" angle Iron. The angle iron is notched for all the bolts for the steering box.
Radius Arms
I am running the Stock Radius Arms of the 1976 F150. The mounts are off of a 70 something 2x4 F150 in the Junk Yard. They were the lowest profile mounts I could find. They are mounted such that the axle is 3.5" further forward than the Dana 35 originally was. I removed the rear lower Body mount rivet and used it as a front hole for the mount. This gave me a better approach angle and allowed me to use a stock driveshaft. I decided this is the most the axle could be moved forward with out serious modifications. I used new Polyurathane Radius Arm Bushings and C-Bushings from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard (http://www.broncograveyard.com/index.php)
Coils & Buckets
In the pictures I am running 5.5" Wild Horses Rock Crawler Springs (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/). These Springs were not quiet tall enough to give me much up travel before the differential ran into the hacked Engine crossmember and the Driveshaft ran into the Exhaust y-pipe. I originally planned to keep the truck with about 6 inches of lift and 35s. I would reccomend using a LOW PINION for 6" of lift because of the problems I faced with my driveshaft and exhaust.
I have since Switched to 6.5" w/ Winch Springs from BC Broncos. (http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/) I like these coils very much. I get as much stuff as I did with the 5.5s (actually more up travel from ride height because I am not limited by the exhaust) and much more droop. They are very soft and are not progressively wound.
I tried 6.5" lift coils for an 79 Bronco/ 66-79 F150 from Superlift, but they were extremely stiff and they did not fit my mounts right.
Coil Buckets
My coil Buckets are unique.
This is the fist time I have seen this, but I decided to use Full Height Coil Towers from a 70s F150. I did not cut mine down like many have. The reason I did this was because I believe a longer coil will give more travel and I wanted to run a long coil and not alot of lift.
Also, on the drivers side I notched the bucket to fit around the bulge on the frame and then welded it in solid. I did this because I have seen many SAS with severly "v" 'd coils because the lower mounts are spaced closer than the upper mounts. I think that this is magnified when the bulge is ignored and the drivers coil bucket is just mounted on top of the bulge.
Both buckets also have been bolted in every hole possible (the drivers is bolted and welded using Grade 8 1/2" Bolts. The passenger side is fully removeable. They were also moved 2" forward from stock.
Shocks, Shock Hoops, Brake Lines & Bump Stops
I am using Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks PN 9012s because they have 13" of travel. I built some shock towers out of 1/2" Tubing. The shocks needed to extend into the engine compartment for full travel, so I built the towers to go up into the inner fender. Also incorporated in the tower is a bump stop. They are polyurathe for the front of a Early Bronco and are fully removeable Va the threads. The brake line mount was cut off the old coil buckets and I welded them onto my shock hoops. The hard lines were extended with some couplers and pre- flares tubing from Auto Zone so the hard line would reach the new mount. I think the extension is about 1 foot on the drivers side and 6" on the passenger side.
Rear Set Up
Right now my rear sits 4" lower than the front. It has 2x4 3 leaf springs in it in a SOA. I plan to put in some 4x4 4 leaf packs and a set of Spring Rockers to bring it up.
For the bolt pattern, I used wheel spacers from Bob Myers of Myers MAchine shop. He was the cheapest I found and he built them to my specs. He can be contacted by email at rmyers2051@alltel.net or by phone at 859-253-2259
Tires and Wheels
I am running 34"x 10.50 Super Swamper TSLs on 93 Bronco Stock 15x8 rims painted black. I could fit 37s and I will probably run some 37x12.50x15s when the swampers wear out.
Currently Setup: BRakelines run down at center of axle, Wristed Passenger Arm. ARB. Cheby 1 Ton Tierod End Steering. Went Back to a stock pitman arm. Rebuilt a new 8.8 rear axle and moved it back 1". Rear Custom stacked spring Pack 37" MTRs on 15x10s with 3.5" of backspace.
Current Photo:
Good luck 
