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LED Cluster Conversion (06-10)

BrianDye

I'll have another...
Joined
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Messages
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City, State
Monroe, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 XLT
I usually upgrade all my vehicles to LED where I can plug and play, like the cluster, dome lights, map lights, taillights, etc. Have saw this mentioned a few times, but no definitive guide or pictures of it.

Project difficulty: 2/10
Time req'd: Depending on your speed, 25 minutes to an hour

First thing you'll need to do is order the LEDs. The style is "B8" and I ordered from SuperBrightLEDS.com. You can order elsewhere, but buyer beware, that quarter or two you save on each bulb from eBay or Amazon, they WILL burn out sooner than later. (Spent like $40 on Amazon on my dome lights and two are already flickering bad)

The style on SB LEDs.com has 3 options. You want the B8.4. I mistakenly ordered the 8.5, which DO work, just had to bend the little metal tabs a bit.
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Here are the three B8 style LEDs: We want the ones on the right, the short ones
b8-led-bulb-high-powered-instrument-panel-panel_zpshwtxnrq0.jpg


Here is the back of the cluster:
0E629592-8045-405A-88BC-43C9D0AE4483_zpsi5hh7btb.jpg


The 4 holes you can see are the illumination lights. The two next to each other in the middle/upper area are your blinker bulbs, and then the other one is your cruise light. I ordered just enough bulbs, but should have ordered one more green instead of white. I replaced ALL of the replaceable cluster bulbs with LEDs. Green for the two blinkers, and a white for the cruise. The cluster has a green film, so the cruise light is still green, but not as green with the bright white LED behind it.

Only *issue* is that now the blinker indicators are so damn bright! Daytime they look fine, but at night, its very bright. I love the LEDs, so it doesn't bother me, but I could see some people having an issue with it.

1. You're going to remove the gauge cluster, follow this guide right here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=404975

2. Once your cluster is out, it was easier for me just sitting in the seat/standing in the door because you'll want to test every bulb to make sure it lights up. The LEDs are polarity sensitive, meaning if it doesn't light up, remove it, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it. I installed ALL bulbs, and then plugged the cluster back in, but left the back facing up as much as the wire would let me. Then I turned my lights on, you'll be able to see the LED light up through its shell/case so you aren't guessing on the cluster.

3. If you do the cruise control light, you'll have to actually start the Explorer, and drive it at least 25mph to activate cruise to see if the bulb lights up or not. If not, you know you just need to rotate it 180 degrees and it will work. Luckily, I got it on my first try.

4. Button everything back up, and you're done! These LEDs theoretically should outlast the Explorer.

Here is a picture of the cluster at night I pulled from Google:
MA0814_Needles-Numbers4_zps0jj3pxpu.jpg


Here is mine: (Sorry for the poor quality! The picture makes it look like 80 and 100 are not as vivid as the rest of the cluster, that is only from a smudge on the plastic cover. Mine was dirty from working on it, and I hadn't wiped it down yet)
AF6633AE-90BB-4914-8137-3E4A6C5D7685_zps4pnga7nw.jpg


Notice how white the KM/h numbers are now as well. Really cleans the look up.
REALLY POOR picture of the cruise light, you can kind of see its more of a teal green:
2C66C394-F3D7-4F50-BCFF-AF8C760BBA44_zpspk0oxsjx.jpg


And another terrible picture with both the blinker indicators lit up:
4744F6D6-C30C-4363-B6B5-A46D01260C2D_zpszfr7ijt3.jpg


I of course did my HVAC controls, as well as the 3rd row controls. Gonna do a white 6" strip in my shifter light, since its such a long well.
51D691BA-21E7-4F07-B33D-9AE0E4600DA3_zpsm966xzck.jpg


E6524855-3BEC-41A3-87BB-10CE6963FED5_zpsyjkjlkss.jpg


HVAC controls take two of the same bulbs, and the rear controls take one bulb. Shifter light takes one as well, but a strip will be the best bet for good, even light.

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Additional notes:
My total for all you see above, from SBLEDs was about $22 shipped. Worth every penny. Pictures truly do it no justice, its such an improvement over the stock filament bulbs that produce the dim yellow light. This is such an easy task as well, I would be confident in saying anybody could do it, so long as you have the tools.

Remember, if your LED doesn't light up, flip it 180 degrees.

If you have the Limited/Eddie Bauer cluster with the larger display, this MIGHT be a bit different. You may have more or less bulbs, but they should be the same.

*I am not responsible for any damage you may cause to your cluster, Explorer, or self. This is a guide that shows how I personally did this task*
 



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This has been on my list...good job, thanks for the post!
 






No problem! Its so simple, but converting some clusters takes different bulbs, or means of lighting, so I figured it would help someone to know how to do it as well as which bulbs work, and what the final output is.

On the second gens, we used 194 bulbs, and the LED style that had 5 LEDs, one facing every direction, and it was a nice upgrade, but it caused some hot spots. With these tiny LEDs, and only having one, I was really skeptical, but its so even.
 






this is one upgrade I wish I never did.... one bulb shorted out and fried my cluster.... pretty expensive fix and if you remove the cluster you cant start the truck... so now I just deal with no lights or warnings and no way of knowing where my mileage is at.... ford charges an arm and a leg to program the cluster and can only be replaced with a matching part number cluster..... sometimes the cluster works but when you turn on the headlights it goes out or use the speed control it goes out.... ive gotten really good at knowing speed by the sound of the engine so i dont have to turn on the dome light to check the speed... lol
 






Looks good. Glad you had good luck with them. I tried to do the same thing. Bought those LEDs from SBLEDs, but I couldn't get them in securely enough to make a good, consistent electrical connection with the circuit board to stay lit. I tried bending the tabs several different ways too, but didn't have much success; so I returned them for a refund.
 






this is one upgrade I wish I never did.... one bulb shorted out and fried my cluster.... pretty expensive fix and if you remove the cluster you cant start the truck... so now I just deal with no lights or warnings and no way of knowing where my mileage is at.... ford charges an arm and a leg to program the cluster and can only be replaced with a matching part number cluster..... sometimes the cluster works but when you turn on the headlights it goes out or use the speed control it goes out.... ive gotten really good at knowing speed by the sound of the engine so i dont have to turn on the dome light to check the speed... lol

Dang man, that really sucks, sorry to hear that. I cant wrap my head around how that would happen.

Looks good. Glad you had good luck with them. I tried to do the same thing. Bought those LEDs from SBLEDs, but I couldn't get them in securely enough to make a good, consistent electrical connection with the circuit board to stay lit. I tried bending the tabs several different ways too, but didn't have much success; so I returned them for a refund.

Hmm, maybe you didn't bend the tabs down enough? Mine are all in there snug as hell, I even had to use a little pair of pliers to turn/lock them in place. I also had to bend the little connection points up. On 2 or 3 of them, the actual power pins were sitting lower than the plastic cap, so it wouldn't make a connection. I bent the retaining tabs down, and the connections up, and all was well.
 






Sorry for the thread Necromancy, but the HVAC and 3rd row are the same B8.4's?
 






Yes I used the same little bulbs
 






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