@jamie8470 I can't speak for the larger 3rd-gens, but on my 2nd-gen, the 33" is a bigger tire than I have ever needed.
@Fix4Dirt said almost everything I have to say; be warned that any gears taller than 3.73's will make the transmission struggle with the weight of a 32"+ tire, and any gears shorter than 4.56's will use loads of gas.
Consider width, terrain type (all kinds, I would assume, since you're overlanding), height, and the size of rims you're planning to run. Short-diameter rims and more tire sidewall gives you a flex and traction advantage when you air down, and all that extra rubber protects your wheels a bit, too. Backspacing is more important than offset, but in general, the farther negative the offset, the wider your stance will be, and the more strain it will place on your hubs and suspension. Whatever your stock wheels' backspacing is, you generally want to stay as close to that as possible, unless you're going to run extremely wide tires. As far as a wheel being advertised as an "off-road" wheel, that has more to do with looks than anything else. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of steel vs. alloy wheels, and carefully inspect the wheels' weight ratings before buying (remembering that your overlanding loadout is much heavier than the stock vehicle). These are the important things.
I'm quite pleased with my 2nd-gen's setup (4" lift, 33x12.50 tires on 15x10 steelies) but the tires are extremely heavy, and road traction is compromised. I feel like 4.10 gears are probably fine, but you'll lose some torque control; 4.56 gears are probably around where it breaks even. I'm running 5.13 gears and fuel consumption makes it impractical to daily drive, but the torque control is addictive. Again, I expect you'd have some variance since yours is a 3rd-gen. Fish around and see what the other guys are doing; most of us are always looking for reasons to talk about our builds.
I would strongly advise against a body lift for several reasons; you can do your own research on that, and decide for yourself. My thoughts are, suspension always costs more, but it's the only right way to get the real clearance you need, with full flexibility. Body lift gives easy height, but cheaping out means you get all the height of a proper lift with none of the practical off-road advantages that a real suspension lift offers. Overlanding is not a weekend hobby, it is a lifestyle. Save yourself the money of doing it over, save yourself headaches and safety risks, and just go full suspension lift from the start.
Do your research here to find the best combinations of lift kits and shock absorbers, tire sizes and clearance issues, etc. Base your build on one that looks like what you want, and ask the owner what he/she would have done better if they could do it over. Most importantly, stay safe and have fun! Let us know what you decide to do!
