Lift to clear 35's

[LouisianaZJ]

What would I need to cheaply clear 35x12.50s on a pre 94 X with (moderate) trimming.

I did a little searching here, but I'm not 100% on the info I got. I am looking to spend about $1000 on all suspension and steering, and I can do the installation.

Rear: SOA w/ extended brake lines, new shocks? (5.5" lift)

Front: some sort of 6" spring lift, shocks

Steering: pitman arm + SS

mabey a 1"-2" BL

who is a good online retailer that sells this stuff?

 

[410Fortune]

Get yourself a Skyjacker 6" lift system with extended radius arms for the front
Do the SOA in the back and possibly a 2" shackle.

However you said "Cheaply" so i suggest looking for a used kit.
Now is a good time to decide if you want to go solid axle or keep the TTB.
You will still need to trim after the lift settles

Cheap way to clear 35's:
2" suspension lift (coils or spacers up front) shackles in the back
3" body lift
TRIM ALOT or fiberglass up front.

Now I assume you want to clear 35's because you like to 4x4 in an Explorer. What kind of wheeling will this rig see? trails/rocks or mud?
I ask because if its a trail rig you will want to increase the suspensions ability to flex. This is why the extended radius arms are very important.

35's are right at the dana 35 TTB's limits, running 35's on a dana 35 TTB means you will need to become familiar with the wheel bearings, you will need manual hubs, and your steering, ball joints, and brakes will need attention.

Also keep in mind clearing tires depends greatly on wheel spacing, offset, size and tires. Not everyone's 35" tire is a true 35" diameter.

I clear 35's on my 88 Bronco II with a 5" custom lift (skyjacker 6" coils actually sag to about 4.5-5") up front, and 4" leafs with a 2" block in the back (truck is SOA stock)
Now the only reason I clear up front is because I have 3" fiberglass fenders. In the back it is REALLY close but it does clear! I run 35x12.50 Goodyear MTR's on Black 15x8" mods with 3.5" backspacing.

 

[LouisianaZJ]

yeah, I should have included more info in the post. Currently, I do not have an X. I am either getting another jeep cherokee and lifting it 5-6" w/ 35's... . and soild axles front (5 link, coils) and rear (leafs) I am very familiar with jeeps. I am trying to determine what I could set-up on an X in comparison to the jeep. So I'm a newbie to explorers, but not wheelin'

This would be a trail rig, that would be driven to the trail, so it would have to be somewhat street legal.. but not really.

I can run wheels with alot of BS and no fender flares, ect w/o problems w/ cops

It NEEDS to have flex, and will see a variety of technical wheelin terrain.. probably not "muddin" per say.

I plan on running stock axles till broken then upgrade to 1/2 ton+ axles w/ traction devices... probably full width. I'm really not familiar with x's is the TTB a soild axle setup or not?

 

[410Fortune]

OKay much better.

First off scrap the Jeep idea Unibody SUCKS hahaha
Ford power is better.

Get yourself a 91-94 Explorer with a 4.0L and a 5 speed (or auto but plan to replace it if its got miles) if you can find one with a manual shift transfer case you are in even better shape.

Now forget about the TTB, rip it all out. Replace it with a coil sprung dana 30 or Dana 44 from a early bronco with disc brakes. Its almost a bolt in affair to get a solid axle under a gen ! Explorer on coils. You can reasearch this conversion all day long on this site. from mild to WILD, some of the rigs on this site have more flex then you might ever believe (ie Jefe and Rick) an Explorer should have.

You can install new moser axle shafts in the rear 8.8 to match the new bolt circle for the solid axle.
Do a spring over in the rear and call it a day.

Then go wheel with your Jeep friends and watch their jaws drop, and after a few years of hard wheeling, you (unlikeyour Jeep buddies) will still be able to open and close your doors! hahahaha UNibody joke there...

FYI I really have nothing against Jeeps, i just like to poke fun at them, its the Chevys I got the problem with! hahaha